1995 into 1999 engine swap thread , Mike 2012

[matthew1]

Nice, Pre! The reward feeling I get from making tools is probably better even than the one I get from fixing Volvo problems.

All this fixing/tools stuff is encoded into our DNA I think.

[erikv11]

I like it.

Does that cap on the cam covers just pop in and out? I'm wondering if you have to seal it up or anything when you reinstall, or just put it back.

[precopster]

It's not easy to get out. I popped it about 3 months ago but I think I used a piece of hardwood that had been holesawed out at roughly the same size as the cap. That way all the force was on the edges where all the strength is when I was pounding it with the mallet. I placed 2 pieces of pinewood under the hole on either side to stop the cover flexing/bending.

It is quite a deep cover at least 3/8 inch deep so you just hit it evenly until it begins to move then check it every few taps to see which side is moving. Popping it back on was a lot easier from the top; just tapped it lightly in a circular pattern on the edges making sure it was square until all the way down.

Saved me a lot of time during reassembly as I don't own cam hold down tools.

I used pink Volvo sealer on the cam cover which is a new thing for me. In the past I've just used Loctite sealer which has a higher temp rating and is sensor safe. Does anyone know when this stuff dries?? It's been on for 2 days now and all the stuff squeezed out of the edges of the cam cover is still wet. Does it dry only with heat?

[erikv11]

Where it is anaerobic, it dries right away. Oil pan, valve covers, same thing: I've never waited more than a couple hours after using the Volvo pink goop.

[precopster]

Thanks Erik. Well I squeezed all the air out of the tube and kneaded the tube before I used it to make sure it was mixed really well in the tube. I hope this is normal and that Volvo have changed the compound to be slow drying or only heat activated drying because this IS a worry.

Does anyone else have experience with Chemical gasket part number 1161059?

[jimmy57]

Yes.
The chemical gasket is a cyanoacrylate based sealer and is a close cousin of super glue. It has some other chemicals in it that make it tolerate higher heat and to add to its bonding strength by not only curing when air is excluded as with super glue, but it uses the copper fraction in the aluminum alloy as a catalyst for hardening reaction. This sealer is immediately usable with no wait after engine is assembled. This product is used where strengthening the engine is an additional desired result in addition to sealing oil inside. The sealer will remain wet anywhere it is not compressed between two flat surfaces with a small gap. It is a thin film sealer not intended to be used where there is coarse surfaces with poor surface to surface fit. That it why it is applied like a coat of paint and you see a line of it emerge from the sealed surfaces. I have a rectangular metal tin container that has a plastic snap on lid that has been my anaerobic sealer roller vessel for almost 20 years and the sealer has never dried up inside that or on the roller stored there in those years.

[regent]

Neat stuff.
Just be careful and apply it sparingly (you do not want any excess of it to get where it does not belong, especially into the oil galleries)

[precopster]

Thanks Jimmy for the very comprehensive answer.

It was done with my trusty 3 inch paint roller and that too is still wet!!

Relieved that it seems to be normal (though quite unusual for a sealer) but it is ANAEROBIC which means it dries without air.
After googling ANAEROBIC SEALER I found a guy on the SAAB Central forum asking the same question after he used it on his timing cover.

Better not squeeze the air out of the tube; the darn thing will harden

[precopster]

DOH!!
Well today was a mixture of good and bad. The bad was I cracked a gearbox casing and the good is that the gearbox is redeemable with some reassembly.

You may ask: How could one be so careless as to do this and on a near new 68K mile AW-50-42 example??

Well I thought that the easiest way to reassemble the engine gearbox combo was to bolt the torque converter to the engine first, then slowly re-insert the gearbox by slowly torquing up the 10 bolts around the housing.

I was doing up the bolts and found that I was meeting some resistance so I just tightened them more going around in a circular fashion. I thought that I was overcoming the weight of the gearbox, not an incorrectly mated torque converter. The groans and noise I heard was thought to be the spiles mating on the torque converter with the gearbox output shaft.

It may be fixable as the rear of the casing connects directly to the front (small) output shaft. Fortunately all the force exerted went straight to the rear casing and not to rest of the gearbox. I have a spare gearbox from a '99 V70 which I can get the casing from or I can visit my friendly Volvo wrecker for a rear casing from a damaged gearbox. Learned one big lesson today: Always fit the torque converter to the gearbox first, then maneuver that assembly to the engine.

[precopster]

OK so started her today!! WOOPEEEEEEE!!! Not running too good, though

Replacement rear casing for the gearbox was fitted afew weeks ago and the motor was dropped in. I need to slot out the holes in the shift bracket as there's a 3-4mm difference in the position of the holding studs in relation to the PNP. This is a '96 AW-50-42 from a pick and pull which is remarried to the original block.

All fluids replaced and fitted her up with new hoses, heater core, heater coupling, timing gear, all seals inc RMS, accessory belt, access tensioner roller, control arms, sway bar links, new OEM spring seats, thermostat, coolant sensor, cooling fan relay, control arms (old alloy type with new Meyle ball joints), reco master cylinder.

After rebuilding my other (2000 model) V70s ETM with a new Sacer sensor I tried my hand on this one and somehow managed to kill the board. The ETM fails to initialise so I ordered another ETM from eBay and plugged this one in today.

I've got codes P-1019, 1020, 1021 and 1052 which point to a engine management relay problem and an ETS light.
The ETM from eBay could also be the culprit as it's an '05 build (yellow sticker) from a '02 S60 NA. I can rev the motor but it's hunting between 700-900RPM. Next is a good clean of the ETM (it got dark real quick today at about 5:30pm so just plugged it in quickly and tested)

Did I forget to mention the bank one O2 sensor code? Must have been when I was pulling the gearbox and forgot to unclip the O2 sensors from the gearbox bracket so I stretched the cables badly.

I bought 5 used OEM coils from eBay locally for $80 as cylinder one is misfiring. I can't believe my luck that the A/C actually works and blows icey cold. All this has been achieved with a '96 model 850 block that I pulled for $200 (compression tested first)

I really can't wait to sort the gremlins out and take her on her first drive. It's been a 12 month rebuild and I don't want to do this when teperatures drop even more here in cold Melbourne.