ETM/ETS: ModuleMaster vs. XeMODeX

[bronson75]

One more thing, I didn't replace the ETM gasket when I cleaned it, it stuck to the underside of the intake manifold, I just left it there and reinstalled the ETM.
Could this be causing some of my problems? I seem to recall reading that some people recommended replacing the gasket, while others are able to reuse it.

[precopster]

During the times it won't start have you checked the shraeder valve at the fuel rail for pressure? Fuel should squirt out with a lot of force if the pump and/or pump relay are fine.

If the ETM gasket was not sealing you would probably get a code for a lean condition due to unmetered air entering the engine.

It only takes two things to start an engine; fuel and spark. Check fuel pressure at the rail and spark at coil packs during difficult start times.

When an ETM fails it will 1) Start the car but idle will be rough 2) Report codes to the car's ECU

[MilehighV70XC]

Boost sensor, easy to replace, takes five min. If the the hard start/stalling issue does not change, you can just return it if you keep it clean and install it without any damage. When mine went bad. I had the same symptoms as you. Car would some times start right up, always drove fine, but would die randomly and sometimes start right back up or sometimes I would have to crank it over a few times. The sensor is on the top of the tube running in front of the radiator
I highly recommend CarQuest for parts if you have one close. They bought a company called Worldpack who stocks a lot of OEM parts. At my local CarQust their prices are within dollars of the online stores and you can return and get parts much faster.

You can check if the turbo control valve (TCV) is working properly. It is connected to the air box. Disconnect the three hoses. The three nipples should be colored coded red, yellow, and blue. First blow through the red and air should come out the yellow. Plug the yellow, blow, should be no air leak. Apply 12v to the connector, blow through red, air should come out of blue. Plug blue, should be no air leak. You should be able to hear the solenoid open and closing.

[bronson75]

Yep, I've spent enough time under the hood lately, I know where just about everything is. I'll pick up a new sensor, hopefully it'll take car of my problems! I called my local CQ, they can order me one for $88.
Thanks for the diagnostic procedure for the boost control valve, I'll start blowing on it tonight.

[bronson75]

During the times it won't start have you checked the shraeder valve at the fuel rail for pressure? Fuel should squirt out with a lot of force if the pump and/or pump relay are fine.

I let it sit all day Saturday with the battery disconnected, to make sure the computer was purged of any and all codes. This morning I connected the battery, and it started right up, zero problems. I went inside for a minute or 2, came back out, and it had died. I took your advice and checked the pressure at the fuel rail, and I had nothing. Barely a drip. Tried to restart it, and it just cranked. I threw the keys on the floor and came inside.
I am getting SO fed up with this. It seems like it's been a never ending series of events since Thanksgiving.
Okay, so now what? I'll fire up the search function and start diagnosing fuel pump and relay problems.
As always, input is appreciated.
Ugh.

EDIT I did some research, and I'm going to start with the fuel pump relay. A lot of threads have very similar symptoms to mine. I found Ozark Lee's relay rebuild thread, I'm going to start there.
Gotta say, MVS has been a GREAT help.

[JRL]

Module Master needs cores.
I emailed them last week, I have one and they offered 60 bucks for a bad ETM and they will pay shipping.
There's a free $60 for me!

[bronson75]

Module Master needs cores.

I wonder how much a boneyard would charge for used ETMs....
I see a business starting here!

[Klausc]

I went inside for a minute or 2, came back out, and it had died. I took your advice and checked the pressure at the fuel rail, and I had nothing. Barely a drip. Tried to restart it, and it just cranked. I threw the keys on the floor and came inside.

Fuel pressure diminishes rapidly after shutdown. You should hear the pump run for a second or two when the key is turned to posII.
Is there a fuel pump relay on your car?

Boost controllers get dirty and slow down after a while. Normally does not effect starting or idle, unless the lines are leaking vacuum.

Go after the current error codes before looking to replace the ETM.

[bronson75]

Fuel pressure diminishes rapidly after shutdown. You should hear the pump run for a second or two when the key is turned to posII.
Is there a fuel pump relay on your car?

Boost controllers get dirty and slow down after a while. Normally does not effect starting or idle, unless the lines are leaking vacuum.

Go after the current error codes before looking to replace the ETM.

Just to recap, I have been having a stalling/hard start issue since Thanksgiving. I was getting boost codes 236/237, an O2 sensor code, and a 650 code (CEL is burned out). I was also getting a cam position code, found my timing belt very loose. I replaced the tensioner and properly tensioned the belt, the code went away.
I get random ETS lights (hence this post), in an effort narrow down the problems, I've:
GOtten NO ETS/ETM codes
Cleaned the MAF (it was very dirty)
Cleaned the ETM (also very dirty)
Went over the vacuum system, haven't found any leaks, yet.
I was getting a wildly fluctuating engine temp gauge, it'd swing from cold to operating temperature erratically, I replaced the coolant temp sensor, which solved the problem.

Today I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped the contacts in the socket. The car started immediately and has been running for about 10 minutes with no problems. I'm still getting the 236/237 codes, but I assume my MAP/BCS is failing, and will replace it soon.
I pulled the relay apart and saw no visible damage, burnt contacts, loose solder, etc. But, since the car started and STAYED RUNNING (yay!) I'm guessing the relay capacitors are suspect. I'm going to run to Radio Shack and pick up some parts to rebuild the relay.
Hopefully this will take care of my problems, and at this point have ruled out the ETM as being bad (some serious wood-knocking-on going on here).
Wish me luck!

[precopster]

I ran a soldering iron over our '95 850s fuel pump relay over 3 years ago and our hard starting/no starting has never returned. The rotor button was the next failure. Car still starts with only 2 turns.