5 codes on '02 V70 2.4T

[ICHASESURF]

Yep just wanted to get as much help out the gates as possible I guess if one wire is touching block that would do it too ....

[firstv70volvo]

Yep just wanted to get as much help out the gates as possible I guess if one wire is touching block that would do it too ....

You now know which wires to focus on and you'll find the one causing the short. Based on the work you did I would focus on the VVT solenoid 12V wire, then the PTC resistor wire (located in intake pipe to turbo), turbo control valve, EVAP valve and lest likely the leak detection pump in the rear of the car. You can pull fuse 5 (key off) and measure resistance to ground (using the fuse lead closest to the engine) while looking at and moving the suspect wires. On my car I measured 9 ohms, you're probably seeing 0 ohms. If you don't see an obvious bare wire touching ground you can monitor the resistance measurement while moving the wires..

[ICHASESURF]

You guys are great thank you!

[ICHASESURF]

Well so after doing a quick couple of test I have some info.upon first putting a voltmeter set to ohms I got 17-18 and had light variations depending on where I wigbled wires but nothing major.then upon removing probrs and then repeating the test I got 1.7-2.2 roughly and saw more minor variations as I moved wires around and I tried multiple areas.....all the suspected wires.......so I haven't really found out anything definitive as of yet. One thing to note is that one of the fuses I placed in last nite did NOT POP when I inserted it until I started the car.Every other fuse I had placed into it's spot popped immediately ......interesting? So that's where I am at!

[firstv70volvo]

Well so after doing a quick couple of test I have some info.upon first putting a voltmeter set to ohms I got 17-18 and had light variations depending on where I wigbled wires but nothing major.then upon removing probrs and then repeating the test I got 1.7-2.2 roughly and saw more minor variations as I moved wires around and I tried multiple areas.....all the suspected wires.......so I haven't really found out anything definitive as of yet. One thing to note is that one of the fuses I placed in last nite did NOT POP when I inserted it until I started the car.Every other fuse I had placed into it's spot popped immediately ......interesting? So that's where I am at!

Interesting results, not a dead short if one of the fuses survived. You need at lease 0.8 ohms of resistance to prevent blowing the 15A fuse with the key on and assuming ~12V so I'm wondering if the problem isn't a 12V bare wire grounded but maybe one of the solenoid/valves or the PTC resistor (air preheater).
To troubleshoot further you could disconnect the connectors (key off) to the different solenoids and PTC resistor and measure the resistance after each is disconnected. The PTC resistor is not controlled by the ECM so it looks like it's just a resistor(heating element) to ground so you should resistance go up when this is disconnected. I'd start with the VVT, turbo and EVAP solenoids and disconnect one at a time and measure the resistance after each is disconnected. For those solenoid/valves I would not expect to see any change in the resistance since they are not grounded (solenoid energized) until the ECM turns them on. Not sure about the leak detection pump, I don't know where this connection is but also think this would be least likely to be the problem.
If you see the resistance go up (when measuring from fuse terminal to ground) and after disconnecting any of the VVT, turbo or EVAP solenoids/valves then measure the resistance to ground on both pins of the valve that caused a different resistance when disconnected.
If you do find something that make the resistance go up after disconnecting it then you could leave it disconnected and start the car and see if the fuse blows or not. This would help confirm what's causing the problem.
For the PTC connector it's tough to get to, it's on the inside of the intake tube elbow down near the turbo inlet but would definitely look at it if all the others valves don't change the resistance when disconnected.

[ICHASESURF]

Well I changed the turbo so I'll look there...it's gotta be something I worked on??!!!

[ICHASESURF]

Well ..........problem solved.after tonites UFC fight and a few beers I rolled out to the car and started troubleshooting.after putting some thought into it I decided something.since the one fused survived the other nite it led me to believe there was a variable.so I thought some more and decided to figure out if there was an energizing cycle after the ignition was shut off.....being that I had put the fuse in after I waited a few minutes it seemed plausible.well after waiting a minute I installed another fuse and it survived.ok so after trying various time variations on the install of the fuse I ended up hearing and audible signal that the short was somewhere in the engine compartment.Eventually with the help of my lady I ended up seeing a little proof of smoke come from near the cam sensor.Well I kept digging and ended up at the PTC connector.Somehow some way that little greaseball covered thing got all shorted out in side.after disconnecting the wires I verified by starting the engine and went on to check the fuse......no problem.So thank you very much problem solved!

[ICHASESURF]

One last thing I wanted to post that may help someone in the future on these cars is: the PTC elbow connector that was causing the short and throwing 5 emissions codes can most certainly be unplugged and does not throw a CEL.... so apparently if u are not in Ulta cold weather it isn't needed but nonetheless it cleared all my codes.Another basic fact I stumbled on is my plugs were pretty blown out from the turbo leaking oil so being that the Volvo plugs are so expensive I just cleaned em up and ran em for a while.Well after a short while I also threw four random multiple misfire codes and was a bit stumped but after talking to an experienced Volvo mechanic I was guided toward changing the plugs.Well it's been three days and no surging or stumbling at startup anymore and NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.....