Problem after transmission fluid change

[Francois850]

Yes - It sounds like you are a little low on fluid as you reported you are getting the cold range indicated when the fluid is hot.
Please add some fluid so that it is in the hot range when hot.

You think that will help the issue, any idea why the car works ok when cold, the first few minutes? Shouldn't it be the other way around if fluid is low? Just wondering....
Also, if adding won't help, do you recommend any additive?
It's awesome to be on this forum, I can tell you guys know tons about Volvos

[JDS60R]

We won't know until you add some fluid.
I am hoping that running low did not cause you to burn any clutches but at only being a quart or less low I doubt it. The heated fluid does expand and takes up more volume but as the clutches heat up they grab differently.

My thoughts are that an axle popped out or the new fluid cleaned some gunk that is stuck in one of the actuators. With only 35K between changes I would hope the trans would be clean but I didn't service the unit so who knows how it was really treated over its life.

I would never add an additive.

If the level is right and the axles are in and it still gives you trouble - unfortunately the next stop is at a transmission shop or a stop by the junkyard to grab your new transmission. These units can get clogged up solenoids so ask what it would cost to change them vs you buying a used trans and putting it in yourself.

Trans shop should be able to read the pressures and signals to see if the solenoids are functioning properly. Prices for the diagnosis run from free to $150

[Francois850]

Ok will do everything you suggest. By the way, forgot to mention that the transmission makes absolutely no noise, nothing abnormal at all and gears never pop. When I select gears, it works immediately. I will add fluid tomorrow and do a test run and will get back with you.
Finally, if some junk clogged up something, is there any chance driving around the block a bit may improve things?
THANKS!!!

[mercuric]

I wouldn't drive it if the clutches are slipping.

You say it's slow to accelerate and you can't get past 40. Is this because the RPMs go up, because the clutches or converter are slipping that badly?

Or is it bogging down and just loosing power? That would be an indicator you might have mucked up something ancillary while doing the work.. Spilled a bit of ATF on something electrical, or exposed a poor ground removing the battery and tray? Never know. I've made a little ancillary error before that's caused me a bit of a nightmare. Nobody's perfect, it happens.

I assume you're checking the fluid level on level ground... How's the fluid level look with the car off after sitting 5+ minutes to settle? Is there a significant difference?

[mercuric]

I wouldn't drive it if the clutches are slipping.

You say it's slow to accelerate and you can't get past 40. Is this because the RPMs go up, because the clutches or converter are slipping that badly?

Or is it bogging down and just loosing power? That would be an indicator you might have mucked up something ancillary while doing the work.. Spilled a bit of ATF on something electrical, or exposed a poor ground removing the battery and tray? Never know. I've made a little ancillary error before that's caused me a bit of a nightmare. Nobody's perfect, it happens.

I assume you're checking the fluid level on level ground... How's the fluid level look with the car off after sitting 5+ minutes to settle? Is there a significant difference?

For the record, the procedure from Volvo, after draining and reinstalling the plug, is:

Refilling
Apply the parking brake. Move the gear selector to position P. Add approximately 2 liters of oil.
Start the engine and let it idle.
Turn the engine off when air bubbles start to become visible in the hose.
Add approximately 2 liters of oil.
Start the engine again and let it idle.
Turn the engine off when air bubbles start to become visible in the hose.
Remove the battery and the battery shelf. Remove the hose from the connection.
Install the return hose on transmission cover. Install the battery shelf and the battery.

Add approximately 2 liters of oil.
Apply the parking brake
Start the engine and let it idle. Move the gear selector through all positions; stop in each position for 4-5 seconds.

Move the gear selector to position P with the engine running.
Wait 2 minutes. Check the oil level
Top up if necessary. The oil capacity of the transmission is 7.6 ±0.25 liters (MAX, MIN).
Switch off the engine

[Francois850]

I wouldn't drive it if the clutches are slipping.

You say it's slow to accelerate and you can't get past 40. Is this because the RPMs go up, because the clutches or converter are slipping that badly?

Or is it bogging down and just loosing power? That would be an indicator you might have mucked up something ancillary while doing the work.. Spilled a bit of ATF on something electrical, or exposed a poor ground removing the battery and tray? Never know. I've made a little ancillary error before that's caused me a bit of a nightmare. Nobody's perfect, it happens.

I assume you're checking the fluid level on level ground... How's the fluid level look with the car off after sitting 5+ minutes to settle? Is there a significant difference?

The car is behaving just like if it had a standard gear box with a bad clutch, acceleration is poor due to a lack of torque, if I go down hill, it's easier to pick up speed, up hill it's hard. The clutch or converter is definitely slipping.

[mercuric]

No tach on that car?

I guess the reason I ask is because lots of things will cause lack of torque, and I'd expect to see abnormally high engine RPMs with slippage -- Lack of acceleration doesn't really imply slippage, but certainly could. I'd also expect to see you able to come up to speeds higher than 40 with slippage if you accelerated slowly enough to not slip the clutches much... But a tranny expert may disagree -- Most my experience with volvo trannys is with the RWD cars.

[Francois850]

My engine is in great condition, changed many things the past 2 months and passed inspection 2 weeks ago, no C.E.L. on, no codes. The only thing I did was to replace fluid and that's when it all started. Kinda wish the engine was the issue, would be maybe easier to fix... who knows...
Will check again the fluid this evening, got some inputs last night, will do a test and will get back with u... thanks!!!

[mercuric]

Good luck, let us know!

[Francois850]

Well added 1/2 quart, now it's perfectly a the correct level but, unfortunately, it made no change...
I don't understand why the C.E.L. does not come on (yes it woks), some codes should have been thrown....

Drove it again 2 hours later and as usual when cold worked almost as normal.... the problem is really weird, if something was truly broken, it would not work cold or hot... Strange strange strange.