Timing Belt Recommendation

Post by **vtl** » 08 Aug 2013, 14:45

I might misread you, I was talking about serp.belt tensioner pulley.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 08 Aug 2013, 14:58

vtl wrote:I might misread you, I was talking about serp.belt tensioner pulley.

Ahh gotcha. Sorry bout that I was stuck on the timing components. I did see just the pulley by dayco (I think) on the advance website. Had fairly good reviews believe it or not too. When I do get my other stuff together (antifreeze, etc) I'll probably end up picking that pulley up as well. The tension on my serp tensioner is nice and strong its really only the pulley/beating assembly that is wobbly and loose.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 08 Aug 2013, 23:06

covert24 wrote:There is no wobble or play in any of the parts although I have a question about the pulleys in general. How much resistance should these pulleys have after being spun by hand? What I mean by that is, is it supposed to freewheel or is there supposed to be a little resistance?

Bringing this question forward.

Magnus308 · Post by **Magnus308** » 10 Aug 2013, 11:52

covert24 wrote:There is no wobble or play in any of the parts although I have a question about the pulleys in general. How much resistance should these pulleys have after being spun by hand? What I mean by that is, is it supposed to freewheel or there supposed to be a little resistance?

It should be a little resistance in the new pulleys becasue they are filled up with grease and usually if you replace them in time there is still some resistance in them. If you can spin them and they continue to rotate by itself the bearing grease probaly have dried and become dislodged from the bearing itself.

Those bearings are not 100% tight since they are located on a part of the engine that see a lot of heat and quite big temperature variations which can cause the bearing material to expand or contract, They are also sealed with quite much grease inside.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 14 Aug 2013, 23:50

Figured I'd take some pictures of the parts I got. I'm wanting to tackle this job hopefully sometime this weekend if I can muster up the motivation

. In the last picture you can see what I was talking about with the water pump gasket. Its a little deformed but I'm hoping that once I put it on and tighten it down, it should seal up nice. Does anyone disagree and think I should possibly pick up a spare felpro from advance or something?

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 18 Aug 2013, 19:12

What was your cost for this kit? Considering doing this preventive maintenance myself and save $250.00 in shop labor. Thanks

95SE · Post by **95SE** » 18 Aug 2013, 20:18

Does anyone do all the cam seals at the time or is that a waste if they are not leaking?

Magnus308 · Post by **Magnus308** » 19 Aug 2013, 12:14

95SE wrote:Does anyone do all the cam seals at the time or is that a waste if they are not leaking?

I would say its a waste to replace them if they are not leaking.
Use a highquality oil, Change your oil in time and make sure that your PCV system works as it should and you will not have any problems with leaking seals.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 19 Aug 2013, 15:54

clifford06 wrote:What was your cost for this kit? Considering doing this preventive maintenance myself and save $250.00 in shop labor. Thanks

The "Minor" timing belt kit at FCP was around 80 something bux and the hepu pump was about 50 something. I will be doing a coolant flush with some Zerex g05 coolant as well so if your coolant has never been done, factor the cost of that as well. I bought 2 full strength (not premix) of the zerex at Napa for 16 a pop and I picked up 4 gallons of distilled water at target for 89 cents a gal.

95SE wrote:Does anyone do all the cam seals at the time or is that a waste if they are not leaking?

Agree with magnus on this. If they are not leaking, I'd say leave em alone.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 22 Aug 2013, 00:13

Alright guys. Few things.

Attempted to do this job a few hours ago and came to a stopping point after I got the old belt off. Which, by the way, is showing some slight signs of cracking (was changed at 105k) car now has 187k. Almost 188 now. Proof that the interval to change these things out really should be about 15-20k less then the manufacturer.

Now for the real questions.

Before removing the old belt, I lined up the cam marks with the plastic cover to the best of my ability. The exhaust cam mark was a little difficult to see in relation to the plastic cover due to the shock tower being directly in sight but looks to be in range. At any rate, got the intake lined up pretty spot on to the mark.

The crankshaft can gear was extremely difficult to see but the pointed arrow was in between the two MICROSCOPIC ridges on the inside of the gear so I was pleased with that. There is literally no way to get a dead-on look at as the belt and belt tensioner is in the way but it looked close enough to my liking.

I opted to remove the lower plastic cover around the crankshaft pulley instead of the removing the pulley itself as the impact gun I was planning to use needs a rebuild.. Go figure..

Before I took the belt off and while all of my marks were within spec, I marked the teeth on the cam sprockets and continued that mark to the old belt as recommended by another member to ease the reinstallation procedure.

Now for the problem, I was under the impression that these cam sprockets were pretty much going to stay put once I loosened the old belt and slide it out. No such luck. The exhaust side is good to go and didn't budge too bad but the intake cam turned I'd say a good half inch either way upon fiddling around with the removal of the old belt. When I mean turn I mean I can turn it with my hand. Obviously I refrained from doing that as much as possible but it did in fact move.

Now since I have marked where the old belt was and I have the timing marks, does this mean that I should be OK or did I just make a rather bad choice in "general maintenance"? I'm not going to loose any sleep over it (well maybe a little) but am I correct in thinking that in theory, as long as all of the marks line up (cams to plastic cover, marks I made on the old belt, and crankshaft cam sprocket mark to block) I should be able to slide the new belt in and be good to go?

Only reason I stopped working on it tonight was I had to pick my fiancé up or I would have went ahead and replaced all the other components in a jiffy. These timing marks have me more or less worried though. Especially since the intake side moved during and after the removal of the old belt.

I'd appreciate any help at all pertaining to any of the above mentions. Thanks in advance guys and sorry for the long winded post :/

Timing Belt Recommendation

Re: Timing Belt Recommendation