1996 850R stutters dies when warm

[burnout8488]

thatll do it... go silicone and u wont have issues..

Why not go Volvo brand? The original lasted almost 18 years! Most silicone hoses put up a fight when installing them too.

Return the URO brand and never EVER buy URO again for your cars. URO and Scantech are the cheapest crap on the market. URO rubber products are dreadful, it will probably crack in short order.

[jacsil]

Ok yes it seems on the cheap side. And if it cures the problem ill consider a better hose. The volvo hose is close to $100. And while $100 isn't the end of the world I have recently replaced the starter, heater core, all the pcv (oem) so that should bring a a smile. The crank sensor, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, air filter, and if this doesn't fix the problem then what. More money for what new maf, coil, ecu it can go on. So if there was a hey do this and I'm golden no problem but its fix this and hope.

Hopefully this hose works for now.

Also on our xc90 i just replaced timing belt, pcv, front cam seals, the vvt hub. Upper mount, It also needs a power sterring pump, and suspension bushings.

So I would have loved to buy the oem hose. In fact I would like to just drop it at a shop and say money is no object. But it is for me.

Hey I'm sorry for the rant. But their is a limit for me, a budget. And I do appreciate everyone's responses

[abscate]

On the plus side, the Cost of living in SFO is low so you can afford these parts....(slight sarcasm)

I chased a loose inter cooler hose on my V70 T5 for months before finding it.

Good luck and let us know how it works out!!

[jacsil]

yes i live just south of san francisco and the cost of living is high. I was also told by someone at ipd that san francisco has the highest cost for maintaining cars in the country. Dealers are $200 per hour I was told the bmw dealership is around $250 and local shops 125. even the parts prices are higher.

I seem to have a new set of problems that developed since replacing the intercooler hose that connects to the throttle body yesterday. I also installed a 4 gauge ground wire attaching it using a bolt where the starter mounts to the engine on one end and then to the chasis right in front of the battery where I believe one of the battery grounds attaches to.

Right after this i let the car warm up and then put it in reverse for a minute then drive for a minute. I drove the car on the freeway keeping it slightly under 2500 rpms for a few minutes then above 2500 rpms. During this time it hesitated once at around 2500 rpms for just a moment. a little bit later it thru the check engine light for the crank sensor p0366 signal out of range? then about 5 miles later it hesitated again.

Drove back home let it sit for a bit cleared the codes hard reset and with a scanner and then back on the road took a similar drive and this time no codes no hesitation. I even did some brief wot driving. the maf readings would climb with the throttle and reach 195-205 with wot.

went back home let the car sit for a while. then drove about a half mile to the freeway. after about 5 miles on the freeway i started to go up a slight slope and the hesitations started. The revs would drop from say 2500 to 2000 and pick back up. the check engine light came on. one time the car gave a pretty good jerk. but it didnt die.

Next i had an appointment and decided to see what would happen if i diconnected the maf with the motor running. their was only a slight change. however the stft did change dramatically. i believe it jumped to positive 26.

LTFT and STFT prior to the hose change the ltft was always about neg 10 with some movement and the stft would very quickly between negative 10 maybe even negative 14 to positive 10.

After the new hose and ground wire the ltft was down to negative 5 and the short turn hovered mostly beween negative 5 and positive 7. and was mostly running before and after the hose change in CL fault with brief stints in OL , OL fault, OL drive and CL.

I let the car sit again for a while and did a hard reset. Now its running mostly in OL with the LTFT hovering around 20. Constant 0 STFT when in OL so im assuming its not getting a reading, when it briefly switches to CL Fault the STFT is 20 to 25.

MAF The maf readings have changed when it is in Drive or Reverse at idle they are from 6.5 to 7. they were about 6.2 before. And when in park or neutral they were 4 to a little above and now they are 4.5 to 5 this is in grams per second.

O2 sensor Also the now seems to be operating in a smaller range. 0.195 to 0.205 at idel and give the throttle a blip and its between 0.005 and 0.230

[jacsil]

OK

I think i figured something out. That before when i was doing the reset of the ecu by disconnecting the battery that a full reset didnt happen.

So last night when I did reset it worked. Thus the oxygen sensor isnt functioning like it was. there is no stft, and the long term is pegged at about 20 and the maf readings are slightly different.

I need to drive the car enough for the ecu to relearn before i will really see whats going on. which could take about 100 miles of driving is that right.

I still think there is something going on that keeps causing the cps code of P0366 when the car craps out.

the good news is that while i did get a slight hesitation once today it didnt set the code. and perhaps this is do to it relearning.

we will see

[jacsil]

OK i found another vacuum leak today. I was driving the car quite a bit trying to get it to relearn its LTFT etc. When the check engine light went on while accelerating. I drove back home and pulled the code and there were two. Crankshaft position sensor signal and misfire cylinder four.

Thats when I decided I didn't have anything to loose and dicided for a seafoam treatment thru the vaccum tree. It did produce a lot of smoke as advertised and when I took it for a drive it seem to run better.

When i parked the car i opened up the hood to have a look around. thats when i noticed a whitish liquid on top of the intake manifold where it attaches to the block. I believe between cylinders 3 and 4. I dried up the liquid and some more seeped out around the gasket. I put a 10mm socket on an extension and was able to tighten two of the top bolts. one of them was nowhere near tight. the others i couldnt see or reach. I took the car for a drive and it seemed to run better.

I purchased a swivel extension and was able to reach all of the other bolts. the two lower belts were loose as well.

I took it for a 10 mile drive and it seemed to be running even smoother. I am not holding my breath. (dont want another vacuum leak. I got some carb cleaner and lightly sprayed it on some of the connections and nothing popped up. I will try this again in the morning on a colder engine.

OH my ecu is still learning perhaps this will hury it along.

[kcodyjr]

Sounds like someone was sloppy doing the last PCV job.

[jacsil]

yes someone was sloppy and it wasnt me. also the same someone may have screwed up another car of mine. and its history.

MY question is. I still do not think when I reset the ECU using the battery method that I was successful.

The reason for this is the LTFT if i remember correctly came back on right away and it came back on at positive 20. The funny thing is before the reset it was at negative 5 after I replaced the intercooler hose.

I have been reading up on the internet, and of course everything on the internet has to be true, and i have seen a few posts of people with 96 model year 850s having similiar trouble trying to reset their codes.

anyone?

[abscate]

We get tons of people thinking their ECU is bad and I think 1 person who actually had an ECU problem

Bad grounds, vacuum leaks, fuel pump relays , ignition parts are the things that bring these cars trouble in their old age.

[jacsil]

Yes and the insanity it brings trying to find the problems.

Resetting the ecu I don't think I have been successful in resetting the ecu using any of the methods described Searches I have done on the site. I always disconnect both positive and negative battery terminals. I have let it set like that anywhere from 10 minutes to overnight. I step on the brakes with the disconnected. I have turned the ignition key to the start position with it disconnected. I have put my foot on the brakes with the disconnected. I have tied the cables together with the plastic ties with the disconnected. And I've even done a combination of it all at the same time.

However each time I believe it's failed to reset the long-term fuel trims. I think the last time it did everything but that. As my long-term fuel trimm started out almost immediately at positive 20. When prior that it had been -5.

My understanding at this point is that the long-term fuel trim should've started out at zero when the ECu was reset.

I've read some posts were other people with the 96 850 turbos have had trouble doing this as well.

Does anyone know if this is the case

If so then I probably need to go to a shop that Has Vaduz and ask them to reset it for me and of course pay them