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94 Volvo 850 TM, Car turns over but no start.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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rspi
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Re: 94 Volvo 850 TM, Car turns over but no start.

Post by rspi »

Things you NEVER want to do to your car or truck …:

'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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huzzsaba
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Post by huzzsaba »

So did a little checking today and it seems like fuel is coming. I can smell it and after cranking it for a while, there was a good amount of fuel that came out of the schraeder valve. If it turns out there is no spark, what would be the first thing to check? distributor? cam sensor?

Sorry it is just so cold here that its hard to check multiple things together without freezing.
2004 Volvo xc90 2.5t
1998 Volvo s70 T5M

huzzsaba
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Post by huzzsaba »

UPDATE: nothing positive though. I got around to listening for the fuel pump and after dropping the back seats and listening, you can clearly hear the pump priming. When I crank the engine, I can smell fuel so I think fuel is no the issue.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor, but still no start.

I finally got around to checking for spark, and there is none! what would be the next step? Distributor? Cam sensor? Crank Sensor?

Please help!
2004 Volvo xc90 2.5t
1998 Volvo s70 T5M

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Post by abscate »

Pull off the cap rotor and post pictures.

When were they last replaced?
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huzzsaba
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Post by huzzsaba »

I will check first for check spark from the ignition coil. I was told by a former Volvo tech to remove to remove the wire going from the coil to the distributor cap and check for spark. How do I check for spark with just the wire without the use of a special device? Just place it on a metal part of the engine like I would with a spark plug?
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Post by precopster »

Yes it's the same spark that gets to the plugs but is a little stronger because it's bypassing the rotor button's internal resistor and firing all of the time.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

huzzsaba
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Post by huzzsaba »

Just to be clear, I understand replacing parts is the way to go, but with money being tight right now, I would rather clean up the parts to get the car back on the road until it gets warm out when a full tune up will be done. I am all for replacing parts but just can't right now so please suggest if there is hope in cleaning parts.

Here is my plan of action:

1)Check distributor cap and rotor for cracks and if cracked replace, otherwise clean the contacts.
2)Check for spark at ignition coil and if no spark, I don't think cleaning is an option so I will replace.
3)check and clean cam sensor (please suggest method of cleaning)
4)check and clean crank sensor. (please suggest method of cleaning)
Last edited by huzzsaba on 18 Feb 2015, 14:27, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by FLXC90 »

When you get to the cam sensor, the harness connectors become very brittle in my experience, leave it plugged in when you check/clean it, otherwise you may have a handful of crumbs. Also, if no spark from coil, check power IN TO coil before just replacing, unless you have a spare.
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Post by draser »

Good plan. On the dist cap, look for carbon tracks around the posts, if there are any need to replace. If not clean best you can around posts and center contact, make sure the center piece that contacts rotor is there. Do not attempt to clean the posts w/sand paper or file as you may scratch cap. Use fine file to lightly reshape rotor tongue as it needs sharp edge to initiate spark. Bottom line is, if you get spark with plug on the block, distributor is fine. Regap plugs to spec as well. If spark okay and still no start make sure timing's good. Make sure crank sensor connector is clean and tight, connector pins not pushed in.
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Post by draser »

Forgot to mention, since you have separate coil, before replacing you can test it. Just unhook existing wiring (separate from car electrical harness), connect a short wire to one of the posts to battery positive and use another short wire from second post to touch ground. Connect a plug wire to high voltage post of coil and with a plug laying on block you should see spark when touching chassis ground with you primary wire.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors

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