1996 850 Wagon Oil Everywhere Underneath, Very Rough Idle

[dosbricks]

It's could be either kit. If it's a late-build '96, then it could have the 97/98 hardware (as mine did).

If the car has never had the PCV changed, then for sure it needs it, and it might be what caused a seal to blow out and the leak to happen. But you can't know what is the source of the problem or what the poor performance/no-start issue is until you diagnose it properly in person.

[PeteB]

Today in the light my son says the oil is not that bad, seems in the dark they just
assumed the worst. But who knows, guess I'll have to take a look at it myself.

Seal blow out? We're not paying for a crank seal repair if that is what you're
talking about.

I have to drive 50 miles to look at it and I'm not sure if I can diagnose it good
enough in the middle of nowhere - a friend's house but I'll try.

[xHeart]

Your basic insurance would cover tow up to 80 miles.
Else, you may want to carry a tune-up kit with you -- spark plugs, rotor, wires, air-filter etc.

[PeteB]

Thanks, he is on his own cheap ins plan so we'll see if they agree to do it.

Any place where I can read as to why this PCV system is so complex?
Last time I changed a PCV valve on a Mazda for example it was $5.

[E Showell]

Sounds like you could have blown out a cam seal behind the distributor which will leak oil inside the cap and can interfere with engine firing. A clogged PCV system can produce this result. Remove the plug wires from the distributor cap, remove the cap and inspect underneath the cap. If it is wet with engine oil inside the cap, you may have found your problem. If that is, indeed, the problem, a complete PCV service, as well as cam seal replacement, is indicated.

[PeteB]

Sounds like you could have blown out a cam seal behind the distributor which will leak oil inside the cap and can interfere with engine firing. A clogged PCV system can produce this result. Remove the plug wires from the distributor cap, remove the cap and inspect underneath the cap. If it is wet with engine oil inside the cap, you may have found your problem. If that is, indeed, the problem, a complete PCV service, as well as cam seal replacement, is indicated.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.
So, If I go up there with a cam seal and find that to be the problem and replace
it. Then test drive it to see how much oil is leaking. Can I drive it home, leaking
and toping it up along the way as long as it doesn't go too low?
Or will that bring back the crankcase pressuse, can I relieve it somehow so that
it can be driven?
I'm leaning toward just having it towed but it would be good to know if this is also
an option.

We did the glove test over the oil fill shortly after he bought the car, it has been
I think about 30K miles since then. Is the glove test good enough?

[PeteB]

FCP video, he does it in under 20 min!

[E Showell]

If you have a clogged PCV system, you can always just leave the engine oil dipstick unseated to relieve crankcase pressure for the 50 mile drive home. That will give you enough pressure relief so you shouldn't blow a replaced cam seal. Bear in mind, however, that excess crankcase pressure can lead to a blowout of the rear main seal which is a large dollar labor project or a multi-hour PITA DIY project -- one I have not attempted.

[PeteB]

Thanks for your help.
Let me ask please, if I was to cut all of the PCV hoses, I assume that it would loose a lot of
oil, but would it run poorly? Is there a vacuum leak that makes it run very poorly?
Or do I need to find some other source that is causing the rough running?

Let's say I go there and do not find oil in the spark plug wells or in the distributor, what
might be the nest thing to look for? Jumped timing belt, ECU problem?

[abscate]

Pete,,,I'm not thinking PCV is the source of your oil. Blown seal or oil line is more likely.

Are the ignition parts all new? What's the history on coil, wires, rotor, cap, spark plugs?