1998 V70 - Rough idle, hesitation, stalling

[robisindy]

Well, about 180 miles later there have been no more issues whatsoever. The MAF seems to have done the trick. Thanks again to everyone who offered your expertise!

[paredown]

Glad that the new MAF seemed to fix your problems.

I've been rehabbing a '99 (normally aspirated) and the two things that I did to solve random stalls/surging, weird lights on the dash should they show up again:
1. Get the ABS module rebuilt (Matty Moo on this forum is the guy);
2. Replace the ignition lock

The first is fairly obvious when the symptoms arise; the second was one of those 'Oh I might as well replace the darned thing' and I was surprised that it had such an effect on some niggling driveability/idle issues.

In fact with a higher mileage car, I would probably do the ignition switch proactively since it is simple to replace and not expensive.

[Mpassareli]

I recently purchased a 1998 V70 wagon, naturally aspirated. This is my first Volvo, so I am getting a crash course when reading these forums and trying to figure out my issue. I apologize if this post is too long, but I want to be as thorough as I can to try and answer some possible questions without them having to be asked.

The guy I bought the car from told me that the car had a driveability issue where it would occasionally stall when coming to a light and then take a few tries to get started again. He had just changed the MAF sensor and replaced the thermostat before putting the car up for sale. The check engine light was coming on, and he said it was throwing a code for the MAF.

I took it on a few short trips to try and see exactly what it was doing. It would start right up every time, even on cold days. But after it would warm up, it would be smooth going down the road but want to stall out when I'd come to a stop. Or it would run okay until I stopped somewhere, like to run into a store, but then when I'd come back to the car and try to start it up it would be hard to get it running. It would sputter and die, eventually starting up and idling okay, but if I goosed the gas pedal it would sputter and occasionally stall out. I found that if I held it around 2000 rpm for 1-2 minutes it would start running fine and keep running fine for the rest of the time I'd drive it.

After the first fill-up that I did, the car gradually ran better. For a whole week I did not have one issue with it - no rough idle, hard starts, nothing. It ran perfectly. This included one trip of about 50 miles round trip. Then this past weekend while on a longer drive it started to act up again. It ran perfectly on the 50 miles or so to my destination. But then after it warmed back up on the drive back I noticed as I was going down the road at around 50-55 mph it started to surge under light throttle. If I mashed the gas down it would respond as it should, but under light throttle just keeping it at speed it would be rough. As I came to a stop, the rpms dropped way down like it was about to stall but then bounced back up, then it was idling up and down while I was at a light. This continued on Monday on another trip of about 30 miles, once the car was warmed up (not right away, but eventually) it was surging under light throttle at 55-60 mph. Then it stalled as I was turning into the parking lot where I was headed.

During the time that I've driven the car, the ABS/Traction Control lights and the Check Engine and Service lights would intermittently be on and off. There was no rhyme or reason to when they'd come on or turn off.

Since I'd never tried the "re-learn" procedure, I gave that a shot before leaving my destination to return home. I unhooked the battery before going into my appointment, and when I came out about an hour later I hooked it back up. The car ran smoothly at first, but then eventually started surging again and stalled as I came to a stop at the bottom of an off ramp on my return home. It took 4-5 tries to get it to start back up. During this trip home, no lights came on on the dash.

Upon returning home, I disconnected the MAF sensor to see if that made a difference. It idled smoothly. When I took the car for a short drive yesterday it started acting up again. I immediately pulled over, with the car stalling out as I came to a stop. I got out and unhooked the MAF sensor again and started the car back up. I finished my short drive with the sensor unhooked and the car ran fine the whole time.

So, am I to assume that the MAF sensor that the guy installed is junk? Also, I am attaching a picture of the MAF sensor connector, because it looks to me like a plastic tab inside of it is missing. Does anyone think that this could be the issue? I don't want to buy a new MAF sensor if it isn't going to solve the problem, of course.

One other note: the ignition switch has been a little touchy, but not seeming to be as serious an issue as some of the things I've seen people say about these cars. A couple of times it hasn't seated all the way into the run position, and the shift interlock won't let me get it out of park. A little tap on the key is all it takes to get it corrected, and I've gotten into the habit of just making it sure that the key is in the proper position as I turn the car on. I don't think this would have anything to do with my other issues, but I figured I'd mention it just in case.

Sounds like the same problem I am having with my 98 V70 wagon. The car will stall out when coming to a stop. I can keep it running if I put in neutral and increase the revs. I have also had the car seem to misfire or chug along while driving on the expressway. I brought it to someone who only works on Volvos. He replaced the MAF with a used Bosch one seemed to get better but problem came back. I have cleaned the throttle body and replaced the Throttle Position sensor. Problem came back. I replaced plugs, rotor, cap and wires, problem came back, replaced the fuel pump relay with a used one from wreckers, problem came back, I have a used coil I am going to try now. Once the car stalls I can get it started and the problem goes away for 3-4 days but comes back. It is very intermittent and frustrating. Can anyone help!!!

[abscate]

Systematically go through and replace every vacuum line on your car. Pay attention to how they route and how the are attached and duplicate.