1996 850 NA First Time PCV Repair - Parts Confusion

[cn90]

...When I have it all apart and see the plastic pipe, I'll replace it probably with copper tube...

I personally think copper pipe is overkill, rubber hose is fine. My rubber hose has been doing fine the last 4 years doing this mod (5/8-inch hose mod).
The copper pipe info is in the thread below (written for 1999+ models but the idea is the same):

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/16 ... -pcv-mods/

[PeteB]

Went out today to see if I could change as many vac lines as possible and decided
to just do both the vac lines and PCV. I wasn't sure what was going on with the large
and small lines in a rubber jacket going from below up to the flame trap. The small
line is hard plastic that was cracked and should have connected to the end of the
intake manifold. It is line #3 as documented in this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=65002

From the factory it goes down to the PCV canister then back up to the side of the
intake manifold. Many here just run it over the top of the manifold which makes it
easier to inspect and change in the future without removing the intake manifold.
This is how I'm going to do it.

I watched Robert's video on PCV service and the one from FCP last night, then used FCP's
while I did the job and followed along since it moves faster:


I did all the work with a 1/4" drive socket set, the manifold bolts were almost finger
tight hardly any torque was needed to get them out.

Tips on the Hard to Reach 12mm Bolts:
This job is straight forward, the most difficult part is getting the hard to reach 12mm
bolts out. So, a few tips, they point up, and you unscrew them down toward the ground.
At first I couldn't even see them, get a work light in there, one holds the bracket for
the dip stick, site down the dip stick until you see the bracket. Get one hand in with
the socket or box wrench (I used 1/4" drive 12mm socket) and site as you move in.
then once on the bolt you can actually get a second hand in there by sliding in along
the power steering hoses. Pull the dipstick out once the bolt is out.

Next, site straight in,
in line with the dipstick and you'll see the bracket bolting to the block also with a
12mm bolt and a 10mm below it holding a wiring harness clamp. This is NOT the
bolt, follow up the bracket and it is up toward the top. I didn't know this and was
able to get it out by removing the 12mm into the block, but you MUST also take out
the 10mm or you will pull the wires with it and possibly damage the wiring.

I don't think the FCP video says to remove the brake vac line, you have to do that to
free the intake manifold.

It was getting cold, about 35 deg F and dark so I didn't get far enough to the point of
taking out the PCV canister, I wanted to start it soaking in a solvent - will do it tomorrow.

I spent about 2 hours maybe a bit less on this, it was not as hard as I thought it would be.

Also, removing the manifold really didn't help with most of the small vac lines other
than #3 because it runs down to the canister and back up, but this was the one that was
broken and leaking in our case. Many other small lines are pulled off but it is possible to
get to them without removing the manifold.

I was surprised that a few lines were in very bad shape and one of the small elbows was
crumbling, but the rest of the rubber parts looked to be in pretty good shape. I am
replacing them all, anyway of course.

[PeteB]

It is 26 deg F out at 7:30 this morning, hope it gets up into the 30s by 11 am.
Brought the new hoses inside to warm up.

[PeteB]

I bought the flame trap kit from FCP and just noticed the roughly 3/8" hole in
the end. Why not drill this out to 1/2" for more flow?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... v90-519602

I think something similar is suggested for the turbo models.

[PeteB]

Source for silicone vac lines, don't have time to wait for delivery so planning
to use regular hose but want this for future reference:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Sho ... d+Silicone

[PeteB]

I'm planning to do the lower radiator hose while I have better access to it.
Anything else I should do while the manifold is out?

[PeteB]

When I removed the PCV canister there were two hose clamps on the lower
hose going back into the block, the one from FCP is the chrome one without
clamps. Is this the correct, newer part?
I'll test fit it to see but I don't want leaks.

[PeteB]

It was 46 deg F today but felt colder than yesterday so only worked for an hour.

[PeteB]

Cleaned the oil trap, hooked up all the hoses, and thought maybe I should put an
elbow in the new 5/8" hose modification because it is rather stiff and needs to
bend to go below the manifold. Decided not to put in the elbow, and as I lowered
the manifold into place, heard CRACK, yes the fitting broke off of the oil trap. I
knew instantly what it was.
Ordering a new one now and am going to go find an elbow to use.
I reused the old oil trap knowing that the hot blow-by gases destroys the plastic
and rubber parts in the system. I would reuse it again and put in an elbow if I
ever do it again, at this point I'm ordering a new one.

Volvo part number on this oil trap is 1271988
At first shopping by car at FCP I could not find this part, called them they said
to search the entire site and we found it - says it does not fit! And actually
the new elbow going back into the block did not fit perfectly, the old one
had a jog going down about 1/4". I had to loosen the clamps and put it on a
bit skewed to make it work. Support at FCP said to use part #1271650 which
I'm going to try.

44 deg F here and it feels very warm, took my coat off and was still feeling warm,
nice day out.

[cn90]

Go to Home Depot Plumbing dept and buy a 1/2-inch coupler copper elbow for $1 or so.
The O.D. of this 1/2-inch copper elbow = 5/8".

Oil Trap ---> Short section of 5/8" Hose ---> Copper Elbow ---> Normal 5/8" Hose (does NOT have to be copper pipe).
I copy and paste a 2.5T PCV job (such as 2004-2006 XC90 2.5T cars) just to show you the copper elbow: