1. I've got a swivel joint that I can try next time...
2. My father-in-law goes to that junkyard all the time to get parts. I haven't been myself, but have heard good things about it.
3. On a completely unrelated matter, asking for a friend, if their car hood happened to be open during a recent downpour, could rainwater damage fuses, etc? I will check over this friend's fuses tonight...
Diagnosing low coolant in 2001 V70
- prwood
- Posts: 689
- Joined: 2 October 2015
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
- Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 22 times
- Contact:
Re: Diagnosing low coolant in 2001 V70
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- jonesg
- Posts: 3505
- Joined: 16 January 2008
- Year and Model: 2004 V70
- Location: Northern maine.
- Has thanked: 69 times
- Been thanked: 481 times
The power distribution panel under the hood has a cover that should keep fuses dry.
That downpour yesterday? That was like throwing a bucket of water on the engine.
Who knows what gremlins that might cause.
Lots of volvo V70 at Hollands, I might snag some coils next time. NIce guys running it, easy return policy.
That downpour yesterday? That was like throwing a bucket of water on the engine.
Who knows what gremlins that might cause.
Lots of volvo V70 at Hollands, I might snag some coils next time. NIce guys running it, easy return policy.
- prwood
- Posts: 689
- Joined: 2 October 2015
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
- Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 22 times
- Contact:
Here are my updates; hoping that I can get feedback on them if relevant:
6/27:
After reclamping upper radiator hose, downpour, test drive, limp home, I disconnected the battery and let the car sit overnight.
6/28:
0. Got a ride to my actual job (as opposed to my second, unpaid job of car mechanic)
1. After work, checked all fuses except for the ones on the underside of the engine compartment fuse box. Using a multimeter set to resistance 200, all fuses measured a 1.5, which is the same as the control measurement of the test leads together.
2. Reconnected the battery and attempted to start engine. Engine cranked and ran for a second, but then immediately stopped. Tried a couple more times with the same result. This has happened before when I've left a vacuum line unhooked or the turbo pipe has come unseated. So I checked all hoses/pipes in the engine compartment and didn't find anything unseated.
3. Checked fuel pressure at injector rail and it was decent. Checked engine air filter, cleaned out some debris from the filter and air box (lots of sand and/or dirt!?). Tried starting again, and engine kept running but was very loud and surging quickly up and down in RPMs. There was also a really loud clacking sound coming from the vicinity of the power steering pump/alternator/ac compressor. Tried accelerator, and RPMs went up and engine sounded good, but after letting off accelerator, engine started surging again and then stopped.
4. Let the car rest for a few minutes, then tried starting up again. Things went smoothly this time. Tried gently pushing accelerator and RPMs smoothly increased and then dropped down to normal when I let off.
5. Stopped engine and then tried to start again. This time it went back to the same run-and-then-shut-off behavior. I remembered that I hadn't fully tightened down the negative battery clamp and thought that might cause the , so I went back and did that, and it started up fine. Not sure if that was the cause of startup issues, or a coincidence.
6. Ran out for a few test drives around the neighborhood and the highway. Didn't push anything too hard, just tried to drive normally (for around here...). Everything seemed smooth.
7. When I got home, the message center on the dashboard was reporting "Engine System Service Required" in addition to "Engine System Service Urgent." However, there weren't any DTCs pulling up in my scanner (either stored or pending). I'm wondering if those are "permanent" flags that just stay there until reset by the dealer.
6/29:
1. This morning, before work, tried starting the engine again. It did the same thing as before for the first two attempts - started up, then immediately stopped. The third time, it started up, but was surging again. I let it run surging for a few minutes, then shut it off. Started it up one more time, and this time it was successful. Took a test drive around the neighborhood and everything was smooth.
2. Still showing both the Service Engine System Urgent/Service Engine System Required messages on dashboard, but still no DTCs being pulled (stored or pending).
3. Nervous about reliability, so I got a ride to work again today...
I have a few initial theories as to what might be happening:
1. Rain from downpour left moisture in various exposed spaces, and may be shorting something out. The plastic sheathing around the cable bundles in the engine bay is cracked/missing in many places, and although I don't see any exposed wire, maybe there is a bit somewhere. I am considering clearing out all the old sheathing and wrapping everything in silicone tape.
2. I also had some (a lot actually) of coolant spray over the engine bay when I was doing my first pressure test. Wondering if that has gunked things up as well and maybe will eventually burn off.
3. Possible that I blew some debris past the MAF and into the intake when cleaning out the air box.
4. With coolant system pressure issue fixed, coolant system is now able to run closer to or at spec pressure, and perhaps this change is triggering previously unseen symptoms elsewhere in the engine.
I know this has been dragging on a bit, so I appreciate anyone who is still with me and willing to respond.
6/27:
After reclamping upper radiator hose, downpour, test drive, limp home, I disconnected the battery and let the car sit overnight.
6/28:
0. Got a ride to my actual job (as opposed to my second, unpaid job of car mechanic)
1. After work, checked all fuses except for the ones on the underside of the engine compartment fuse box. Using a multimeter set to resistance 200, all fuses measured a 1.5, which is the same as the control measurement of the test leads together.
2. Reconnected the battery and attempted to start engine. Engine cranked and ran for a second, but then immediately stopped. Tried a couple more times with the same result. This has happened before when I've left a vacuum line unhooked or the turbo pipe has come unseated. So I checked all hoses/pipes in the engine compartment and didn't find anything unseated.
3. Checked fuel pressure at injector rail and it was decent. Checked engine air filter, cleaned out some debris from the filter and air box (lots of sand and/or dirt!?). Tried starting again, and engine kept running but was very loud and surging quickly up and down in RPMs. There was also a really loud clacking sound coming from the vicinity of the power steering pump/alternator/ac compressor. Tried accelerator, and RPMs went up and engine sounded good, but after letting off accelerator, engine started surging again and then stopped.
4. Let the car rest for a few minutes, then tried starting up again. Things went smoothly this time. Tried gently pushing accelerator and RPMs smoothly increased and then dropped down to normal when I let off.
5. Stopped engine and then tried to start again. This time it went back to the same run-and-then-shut-off behavior. I remembered that I hadn't fully tightened down the negative battery clamp and thought that might cause the , so I went back and did that, and it started up fine. Not sure if that was the cause of startup issues, or a coincidence.
6. Ran out for a few test drives around the neighborhood and the highway. Didn't push anything too hard, just tried to drive normally (for around here...). Everything seemed smooth.
7. When I got home, the message center on the dashboard was reporting "Engine System Service Required" in addition to "Engine System Service Urgent." However, there weren't any DTCs pulling up in my scanner (either stored or pending). I'm wondering if those are "permanent" flags that just stay there until reset by the dealer.
6/29:
1. This morning, before work, tried starting the engine again. It did the same thing as before for the first two attempts - started up, then immediately stopped. The third time, it started up, but was surging again. I let it run surging for a few minutes, then shut it off. Started it up one more time, and this time it was successful. Took a test drive around the neighborhood and everything was smooth.
2. Still showing both the Service Engine System Urgent/Service Engine System Required messages on dashboard, but still no DTCs being pulled (stored or pending).
3. Nervous about reliability, so I got a ride to work again today...
I have a few initial theories as to what might be happening:
1. Rain from downpour left moisture in various exposed spaces, and may be shorting something out. The plastic sheathing around the cable bundles in the engine bay is cracked/missing in many places, and although I don't see any exposed wire, maybe there is a bit somewhere. I am considering clearing out all the old sheathing and wrapping everything in silicone tape.
2. I also had some (a lot actually) of coolant spray over the engine bay when I was doing my first pressure test. Wondering if that has gunked things up as well and maybe will eventually burn off.
3. Possible that I blew some debris past the MAF and into the intake when cleaning out the air box.
4. With coolant system pressure issue fixed, coolant system is now able to run closer to or at spec pressure, and perhaps this change is triggering previously unseen symptoms elsewhere in the engine.
I know this has been dragging on a bit, so I appreciate anyone who is still with me and willing to respond.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- prwood
- Posts: 689
- Joined: 2 October 2015
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
- Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 22 times
- Contact:
It really does seem like I left something unplugged. But I can't tell what.
I'm pretty sure the coolant issue is fixed. But, this morning I had trouble starting up again, so I'm going to end this thread and start a new one for the startup issues.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35288
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1502 times
- Been thanked: 3817 times
I don't think some rainwater will kill an engine that easily. Certainly just letting it dry out in summer heat should take care of it. Usually, if there is electrical shorting all kinds of new issues arise.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- prwood
- Posts: 689
- Joined: 2 October 2015
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
- Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 22 times
- Contact:
New thread here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=81794
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
-
DanelleNavarro
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 4 March 2020
- Year and Model: 2002 v70xc
- Location: CA
- Been thanked: 1 time
I've been having the low coolant issue for a bit. No leaks to be found. New thermostat and sensor and such. Turns out it was just an air bubble in the system. My friend had to rescue me from the gas station due to low coolant red triangle and all. He decided that I should run the car while filling up the antifreeze reservoir....again... to see what happens. and what happened was a bunch of air came out so we let it run for about 20 minutes like that and now everything seems to be great!!
- ignatz
- Posts: 282
- Joined: 7 May 2007
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 t5m
- Location: Birdsboro Pa.
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 33 times
Don't be afraid to pop the hood every once in a while to check the fluid levels. I'd carry a container of water or coolant in the car until you feel the car is 100% fixed.
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift
-
DanelleNavarro
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 4 March 2020
- Year and Model: 2002 v70xc
- Location: CA
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks...
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 8 Replies
- 2966 Views
-
Last post by MathalomuleM31
-
- 6 Replies
- 2245 Views
-
Last post by prwood






