Change Automatic Tranny Fluid Ya or Nah

[SuperHerman]

I say drain and fill with your flavor of choice that meets specs. After that drive it a few weeks and do it again, repeat. Then do it every 20-30k miles.

I had a 2001 XC70 with 142k on it when I bought it. Did a drain and fill using Toyota IV (spec fluid). No issues for about 30k miles at which time I had gunked up solenoids and did a valve body rebuild. Newer models have improved solenoids. My point is the drain and fill did no harm.

I had a 2002 XC70 which had 122k miles when I bought it. Did a drain and fill with MaxLife and had no issues. Car has had a few drain and fill since then, sister now owns it, and no issues. Car is at about 180k.

I had a 2003 S60, about 130k, did a drain and fill with Toyota IV. No issues.

I had a Lexus LX470 where I had a flush done and it took out the transmission. My theory is it threw a clot and blocked a solenoid passage.

Just do a drain and fill and don't worry about it. If it fails, at least you will be aware of the possibility as you put the first 50 or so miles on it. If you do nothing it will get worse and ruin things and leave you stranded.

[cn90]

There are 3 parts that can fail in an AT:

1. The Clutch Packs (these wear out at 180K-250K etc. in a good engineered trans, much sooner in a mediocre trans).

2. The Solenoids: these are electro-mechanical devices to actuate a Clutch Pack.

3. The gears themselves. These virtually last forever.

#1: new fluid potentially reduce the wear on Clutch Packs (may be).

#2: nothing you can do to prevent Solenoids failure. When they fail, they fail.

#3: nothing to worry about.

So changing fluid (not flushing) will not damage an otherwise good transmission.
A bad trans will die sooner or later anyway.

[Georgeandkira]

An '06 with 150K...Just Do It!

[SuperHerman]

Dirty transmission fluid is not healthy for a transmission. It can lead to premature clutch pack failure, solenoid failure and hard part failure. Transmission fluid is an oil - its purpose is not only to provide pressure needed to make the system operate, but it also lubricates and cools the transmission.

On a properly functioning transmission over time the heat cycles break down the fluid compromising its cooling and lubricating ability. In addition as clutch packs wear they throw off debris, clutch material. This is abrasive material and compromises all of the transmission internal parts. It makes the clutch packs wear faster, clogs passages, gums up the solenoids, destroys rubber seals and causes wear on metal hard parts from the valve body to the actual gears (to list a few effects).

There is no magic number for how a long a transmission will function correctly. Factors include design, type of operation (start/stop, hills, constant speed ...) A transmission in a mountain environment with lots of shifting and start/stops will not last as long as one that drives on flats with few if any stops. Extreme environments require additional maintenance.

Solenoids fail due to reaching their life cycle and/or dirty transmission fluid. The floating clutch pack material does impact their life. Dirty and old transmission fluid does not perform as fresh fluid - it neither cools or lubricates as well. Solenoids will wear faster and gum up the solenoid.

Dirty fluid will wear the clutch packs quicker b/c the particles are like grit - fresh fluid does not have this characteristic.

Your 2006 Volvo transmission is a very good transmission. All the prior bugs and issues have been resolved.

Have you pulled the dipstick and taken a look at the physical condition of the fluid?

[Knight]

This is probably one of the most important & useful threads both for the great responses and the importance of the subject of the AWD achilles heel question.
Thank you all!

[IslandV70]

My 2005 V70 just turned over 60,000 miles. The fluid was changed at the dealer at 30,000. Should I stick to every 30k?

[Georgeandkira]

Do you do any of this work yourself?
I'd do a drain & fill and simply look at the fluid assuming clearer and redder is better. This is entirely unscientific.
If the drained fluid was dark, I'd consider a pump-out.
Trouble is getting a look at the fluid if someone else does it.

At 30K was the fluid fully exchanged or was a simple D&F performed?

Remember, pulling the dipstick and wiping on a "white rag" makes old fluid appear redder.

Do a D&F and take a look at the fluid's color.