Smoking dipstick, could it be bad rings?

[callahanoffroad]

Sorry if it seems like we are piling on, we aren't!! I hope you can get it fixed without too much hassle.

... I cannot recall if I used heater hose or fuel line. I made the line slightly too long so there wouldn't be a kink, but not so long that it bunched up. Now after 20,000 miles who knows if there is a kink at the oil trap (catch can) or not. ...

1: Remove factory Oil Trap

2: Block off the lower oil return port from the oil trap.

3: Run two new 5/8" hoses from the block to a single brass T connector

4: run this line to a new aluminum oil catch can mounted somewhere new. Maybe down low by the Charcoal canister.

5: Run the return line back to the intake manifold, but instead of the cheap plastic flame trap elbow (which leaks), cut and drill this out with a new brass fitting, nut, and washer to bolt it down, facing away from the engine block and towards the intake filter.

That's currently what I'm thinking anyways.

0. If you use quality line and a hard elbow like in tryingbe's post, there will not be a kink. Guaranteed! Doing that will eliminate this as a possible issue (you will be able to recall what line you used, you will know it is not kinked). At least use a pre-formed 90 degree bend hose if you insist on heater hose. Yes his car is a turbo but it doesn't matter, read the post you can very easily use his methods for your car!!!!

1. and 2. This is a really bad idea, IMO.

3. and 4. have been tried many times and a few people have made it work well for them. If you end up going this route at least read through all those threads - they are mostly from performance minded people and on other sites (VS, Swedespeed), which means they have turbo cars but again the basic setup (oil trap) is the same as your NA.

5. Everyone with an NA has a flame trap elbow, not all of them leak. But I agree this is a weak spot. A hose clamp and RTV will fix the leaks too.

And what MoVolvos said - how does it perform in a glove test?

Hey you're all good. I don't have another day off till Tuesday, I'm back to doubles. So I won't have time to do any more finagling till then.

[wheelsup]

Sorry if it seems like we are piling on, we aren't!! I hope you can get it fixed without too much hassle.

... I cannot recall if I used heater hose or fuel line. I made the line slightly too long so there wouldn't be a kink, but not so long that it bunched up. Now after 20,000 miles who knows if there is a kink at the oil trap (catch can) or not. ...

1: Remove factory Oil Trap

2: Block off the lower oil return port from the oil trap.

3: Run two new 5/8" hoses from the block to a single brass T connector

4: run this line to a new aluminum oil catch can mounted somewhere new. Maybe down low by the Charcoal canister.

5: Run the return line back to the intake manifold, but instead of the cheap plastic flame trap elbow (which leaks), cut and drill this out with a new brass fitting, nut, and washer to bolt it down, facing away from the engine block and towards the intake filter.

That's currently what I'm thinking anyways.

0. If you use quality line and a hard elbow like in tryingbe's post, there will not be a kink. Guaranteed! Doing that will eliminate this as a possible issue (you will be able to recall what line you used, you will know it is not kinked). At least use a pre-formed 90 degree bend hose if you insist on heater hose. Yes his car is a turbo but it doesn't matter, read the post you can very easily use his methods for your car!!!!

1. and 2. This is a really bad idea, IMO.

3. and 4. have been tried many times and a few people have made it work well for them. If you end up going this route at least read through all those threads - they are mostly from performance minded people and on other sites (VS, Swedespeed), which means they have turbo cars but again the basic setup (oil trap) is the same as your NA.

5. Everyone with an NA has a flame trap elbow, not all of them leak. But I agree this is a weak spot. A hose clamp and RTV will fix the leaks too.

And what MoVolvos said - how does it perform in a glove test?

Hey you're all good. I don't have another day off till Tuesday, I'm back to doubles. So I won't have time to do any more finagling till then.

A super simple cheap solution I did was pull the oil dipstick out and place it along the left side of the hood (where the battery/air filter is located) lengthwise. It stores well there. Then use heater hose from autozone or AAP and push it onto the oil dipstick tube and route it underneath the car. This blows the blow by outside the car and keeps the smell away from entering the cabin. Sometimes if I stop at a red light and have the windows down on I might smell something. But that is it. No need for extensive modifications or additional cleanings (I had mine professionally done and then did it myself to ensure it was perfectly clean). This solution has saved my new RMS and I've been operating with it for many years.

[MoVolvos]

-
Maybe the better way is to get a hose large enough and slip it over the oil dipstick tube as you suggested and vent it into a "drilled" hole in the air box before the air filter?

I use to own 3 VW diesels and as they aged the blow by would be full of oil. It is plumbed into the intake from the factory. The oil would go in with the air and then car and truck would Run On.

Diesels don't really have an ignition system. The glow plugs start them up and they just run. I had tried to vent it out into a can with some sponge material but it would fill up too quickly. Anyway, though I'm no tree hugger I've never like the idea of venting after the VW's.

We use to call them Run On's but now its Runaway.

Insane Runaway Diesel Engine 2019 - The key is out and you run away till the diesel fuel from the intake runs out. Pull over many a times on the freeway. No warning and all 3 were manual transmissions. Uncontrollable and revs higher than WOT.

[callahanoffroad]

Sorry if it seems like we are piling on, we aren't!! I hope you can get it fixed without too much hassle.



0. If you use quality line and a hard elbow like in tryingbe's post, there will not be a kink. Guaranteed! Doing that will eliminate this as a possible issue (you will be able to recall what line you used, you will know it is not kinked). At least use a pre-formed 90 degree bend hose if you insist on heater hose. Yes his car is a turbo but it doesn't matter, read the post you can very easily use his methods for your car!!!!

1. and 2. This is a really bad idea, IMO.

3. and 4. have been tried many times and a few people have made it work well for them. If you end up going this route at least read through all those threads - they are mostly from performance minded people and on other sites (VS, Swedespeed), which means they have turbo cars but again the basic setup (oil trap) is the same as your NA.

5. Everyone with an NA has a flame trap elbow, not all of them leak. But I agree this is a weak spot. A hose clamp and RTV will fix the leaks too.

And what MoVolvos said - how does it perform in a glove test?

Hey you're all good. I don't have another day off till Tuesday, I'm back to doubles. So I won't have time to do any more finagling till then.

A super simple cheap solution I did was pull the oil dipstick out and place it along the left side of the hood (where the battery/air filter is located) lengthwise. It stores well there. Then use heater hose from autozone or AAP and push it onto the oil dipstick tube and route it underneath the car. This blows the blow by outside the car and keeps the smell away from entering the cabin. Sometimes if I stop at a red light and have the windows down on I might smell something. But that is it. No need for extensive modifications or additional cleanings (I had mine professionally done and then did it myself to ensure it was perfectly clean). This solution has saved my new RMS and I've been operating with it for many years.

Not a bad idea. I actually considered this myself the other day. I broke my dipstick on Thursday checking the oil.

MoVolvos: huge vw diesel fan. Might be my next ride. For the mpgs. Your solution sounds like a great idea!

[abscate]

Don't send the oil fumes into the air cleaner before the MAF

[callahanoffroad]

Don't send the oil fumes into the air cleaner before the MAF

I was thinking a fresh elbow off the plastic intake before the throttle body. Full suction ahead.

[dj_v70]

Years ago, I had a 67 Chevy. The oil cap had a filter on it and otherwise connected to the atmosphere. This was the pre-cursor to PCVs and the crankcase gases were vented and not re-burned. The filter was foam or something like that. I think it is important to put a filter on the dipstick tube if you want to do this. I would expect that this would still draw a vacuum on deceleration, etc and you don’t want to draw dirt into the engine.

[MoVolvos]

MoVolvos: huge vw diesel fan. Might be my next ride. For the mpgs. Your solution sounds like a great idea!

Had bumped the grill in the 81 diesel so an 83 GTI red stripe grill was use to replace it. GTI badge and all.

For awhile we had a few VW's along with others in the stable

71 New Red Super Beetle - Dad wrecked
73 New Silver 412 Wagon - I Rolled
80 Used Beige Diesel Truck - Natural Causes
81 New Beige Diesel Truck - Natural Causes
83 New Red Rabbit GTI w/ Gold BBS RA192 - Sold
84 Used Blue Rabbit Diesel - Sold

Don't send the oil fumes into the air cleaner before the MAF

Good Idea, but wouldn't the air filter be enough to remove the oil vapors? Oh, never mind I remember what the PCV canister and plugged holes look like

[MoVolvos]

Don't send the oil fumes into the air cleaner before the MAF

I was thinking a fresh elbow off the plastic intake before the throttle body. Full suction ahead.

That idea is full of hot air and really sucks (vapors ). Do you think that overtime it might gum up the intake valves?

[callahanoffroad]

Don't send the oil fumes into the air cleaner before the MAF

I was thinking a fresh elbow off the plastic intake before the throttle body. Full suction ahead.

That idea is full of hot air and really sucks (vapors ). Do you think that overtime it might gum up the intake valves?

Yes I do. But it's not much $ to grab an universal catch can and place it in between the dip stick tube and the new intake port. Then it's just an extra, properly filtered, pcv tube that also allows you to check the oil level. #thingsyoucan'tdoonnewvolvos

This is basically the theme of this thread...

IMG_20190718_204217_783.jpg (82.68 KiB) Viewed 1249 times

@dj_v70 As I had stated before I considered a pcv vent for the top of the head. They only cost $5. But I can smell the exhaust smell from a slightly opened dipstick.

So I see four options:

1: rebuild the pcv system properly, with a new Hardline etc. (About 2 hours of work and waiting for a new intake manifold gasket)

2: drop a tube to the road off the dipstick. (15 min of work and zip ties to rout it out side the engine bay)

3: pop a filter on a pcv port for a quick temporary pressure release (10 min)

4: Jerry rig a new filtered pcv tube off the dipstick tube to the hard intake. (30 min).