98 V70 smoking dipstick test

[98v70dad]

My 98 v70 fails the smoking dipstick test. Who makes the best replacement pcv kit for te money and where is a good place to buy it? I'm guessing original Volvo parts may be worth the extra money for this kit of parts......

[Baptiste1106]

@ 98v70dad... Let me be the first to introduce fcpeuro.com to you my friend. Beware once you find hour pcv kit your going to be exposed to all other volvo parts for dirt cheap with lifetime warranty.

[erikv11]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53448

You may want to list whether or not your car is a turbo, otherwise people will keep asking you in your threads (several repairs differ, turbo vs non-turbo).

[98v70dad]

erikv11, you make a good point I have a non-turbo engine. Baptiste1106, thanks for the info. I've been a member here for 3 years and have bought things from all of the vendors that advertise on this site and I agree that the prices are much less than you can usually find other places. I need to know who has a good kit of parts and which kit people recommend. Often the vendors will sell more than one thing. I've read in more than one post that the aftermarket kits for this repair aren't any good since they have cheap rubber parts that easily tear. Its impossible to judge quality by looking at a picture, so I'm relying on the opinions of others and thats why I asked.

[rspi]

Just demand Volvo parts when you order or only order the kit that states it is OEM Volvo.

[rspi]

[cn90]

Everything you need to know is in the link erikv11 posted above.

- Use only OEM parts, dealer is cheaper than many online vendors, believe it or not.
- Oil Trap, clean it and re-use it
- Vent hose, don't waste $ on the Volvo part, get the 5/8-inch heater hose.

Again, review the link posted.

[Klausc]

I hope you tested with a warm engine.

I just did my 1996 850 NA, all with local dealer parts and wound up less than $100. But I did not replace the separator box, it was still in good shape.

Look at the thread for 'vacuum routing' for an NA engine, that lets you get a generic vacuum line from the #1 cyl to the the flame trap. It is better and cheaper than OEM.

This isn't a simple operation, but pulling out the fan (2 torx screws) gives you a lot more room. If you don't disconnect the battery: The wires on the starter can be touched by a wrench when you take off the support bracket bolt or the oil dipstick bracket bolt.

EDIT: I used the FCP kit for my 1998 V70R without problems, except for the hose clamps. I don't have a tool to tighten those compression clamps. The small hose that connects the bottom of the box to the block, now has a metal external strengthener and no clamps needed.

[98v70dad]

There is lots of great info here, thanks everyone. I had planned to do this repair over the weekend, but its a bigger job than I have time for right away. I'll gather the parts and do it in a few weeks. In the meantime, is there one hose in particular (hopefully one I can get to easily) that is always plugged up?

I have time for a few hours of work on the car and would like to take care of the biggest offender if thats possible. I'm thinking that the smallest diameter tubes are the ones most likely to plug up with crud. Any ideas on which ones to tackle first if I don't have time to do the whole thing at once?

My car has 118 K on it, but the dipstick is smoking. I did a 5 mile round trip to warm up the engine which I think (not sure though) should be plenty. Its not that bad because I can't see it in the daylight. In the dark using a flashlight to increase the contrast it shows right up.

[dosbricks]

To positively confirm if the PCV is blocked, do the glove test. With the engine warm, remove the oil filler cap and stretch a latex glove over the filler. Rev the engine to 1500 rpm and watch the glove. If it inflates the PCV is blocked. If it slightly depresses into the filler hole, the PCV is working.

If it's blocked, best not to wait too long and risk blowing an engine seal--one of the cam ends or the dreaded rear mail seal.