Rear Shocks. Can't access upper mount bolts. Misaligned

[KurtL]

I just did this 2 weekends ago on my 05 V70R. Undo the one bolt with the banana shape washer and take the whole unit out from the bottom. I followed the Robert DIY video and used the ratchet strap on it. Thank God you don't have the Monroe electronic suspension shocks. Getting at the passenger side connector was a bitch.

[- Pete -]

I just did this 2 weekends ago on my 05 V70R. Undo the one bolt with the banana shape washer and take the whole unit out from the bottom. I followed the Robert DIY video and used the ratchet strap on it. Thank God you don't have the Monroe electronic suspension shocks. Getting at the passenger side connector was a bitch.

Truer words have probably been said, but this ranks right up there with the best of them. If you don't lower the rear subframe, the right rear electrical connector can really make you feel like less of a man. I know I struggled with mine for at least an hour before I finally got it disconnected.

[Goldchemist]

Hey Everyone, Job completed. I changed the two front struts. Installed pre-loaded strut assemblies. And the two rear shock absorbers. In hindsight it wasn't that difficult.

I actually used the jack that came with my car to force the rear wheels down enough so that I could get the rear shocks back on their studs. See picture of rear passenger side. And yes, I used the spring compressors rented from Autozone to remove the old shocks from the assembly. Needed to purchase a 'pass-through' socket set from harbor freight for $20 to remove the 18mm nut from the top of the rear shocks. Used a T40 to keep the shock from spinning.

Hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question but do I absolutely need an alignment after changing all fronts and rears? I've heard you MUST get an alignment, but there have been times when I changed my strut mounts for example and I didn't go get an alignment. The car drove perfectly for years after that, no uneven wear on any of the tires. And I drove it on the highway today and it drove perfectly. This car just seems to have a resilient suspension system. What do you think?

Thanks again for all assistance.

[dono]

Just finished rear struts 2004 xc70 awd 2.5T. I used Sachs struts & my original springs (file w/ procedure for AWD attached below). As mentioned by GoldChemist, the tricky part for me was getting arms down to reinstall. I tried the factory procedure using 3,300 lb compression strap but no joy (and somewhat dangerous imho). I ended up using a bottle jack + blocks to lower arms (dicey).

These are stout little strut assemblies so not super fun doing on your back/knees w/out a lift (probably not fun w lift either). I muddled through the top center nut on the strut w vise grips on a shallow socket (too deep for crow's foot) & T40 torx to keep from spinning. I couldnt get torque value but did count/match # threads on bolt protruding from nut w original installation.

In hindsight I would order an 18mm suspension strut socket tool (or set) & a right angle T40 torx key (or set) for this. You could get a set of each for the price of the Volvo tool (Volvo pn 9995500) but do get a proper tool as you cannot tighten this nut easily without one; unlike the front strut you cannot tighten the AWD rear strut nut in situ. Do remember to mark the rubber shim location at spring seat before disassembly to facilitate reassembly (correct orientation is not obvious).

[abscate]

On the alignment question I have found marking a tire with a sharpie and then driving for a week gives a clue as to if the wear in the tire is even or not, and ergo the need for an alignment. Generally on FWD cars the rear stays in and the front only needs toe adjusted if the rack or tie rod ends are messed with; semicolons prevent dangling prepositions.