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Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Delta Link Repair DIY
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Ozark Lee
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Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement

Post by Ozark Lee »

The yellow area in the first picture is where you heat it up.

In picture 2 the bolt circled in red comes out, unless the bushings are bad don't mess with the nuts circled in blue since those bolts hold the rear toe in adjustment.

On my replacement endlinks the top and the bottom were identical in diameter so there was no up or down. Since yours look to be different diameters just chose the direction where things fit. The top shouldn't care but the bottom might.

As far as the bolt goes, I just tapped it in to get it started and then used the ratchet to draw it in tight.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
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1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I guess if you have a friend who is a welder, you can make your own tool:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=76405

nik2.jpg
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Re Volvo Tool 9995497.

This website from Germany sells the tool for $62 Euros.
I guess one can buy the tool, do the job then sell on ebay?
Does anyone know any US seller for this tool?

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/ac ... e/1018424/
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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

Ozark Lee wrote:The yellow area in the first picture is where you heat it up.

In picture 2 the bolt circled in red comes out, unless the bushings are bad don't mess with the nuts circled in blue since those bolts hold the rear toe in adjustment.

On my replacement endlinks the top and the bottom were identical in diameter so there was no up or down. Since yours look to be different diameters just chose the direction where things fit. The top shouldn't care but the bottom might.

As far as the bolt goes, I just tapped it in to get it started and then used the ratchet to draw it in tight.

...Lee

Cool - Thanks Lee.

grendel
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Post by grendel »

looks like I will be the next one to follow the suggestions here, mine has been clunking at the back and weaving just very slightly. ordered p the parts today, on slow delivery (2-5 days) and will do the job over a couple of days I guess, well we will see how I get on, I'll report back.
Grendel

grendel
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Post by grendel »

well that was quick, my new parts arrived today (not even 24 hours after ordering, 2 new outer bushes plus the inner ones (might do them another time) £157.00 all in.
now to book a couple of days off next week to do the work.
Grendel

grendel
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Post by grendel »

ok heres what it should look like once you have drilled it - this breaks the seal
ok heres what it should look like once you have drilled it - this breaks the seal
IMG_1988small.jpg (114.09 KiB) Viewed 5079 times
Got round to starting to do my bushes today, started at about 09.30am - after a quick trip to the tool shop to get an 18mm impact socket and spanner. (thanks for that info - it saved me a trip down there on foot once I had started).
Anyway bouyed up by all the advice on here I started - 15 minutes had all the bolts off - after giving the bearing a good whack a few times with a bronze club hammer, and a few attempts to construct a puller, I decided to remove some material with a drill - I chose a 6mm (1/4") and drilled on the angle through the top section, once through I wiggled it around to widen the hole. after this a screwdriver to lever out some of the rubber, then acouple of sideways whacks with the club hammer and it dropped right out. the new one went back in using a 10" long 1/2" diameter drift to hit alternately either side and it drifted right back in fine.
so 1 1/2 hours after starting the first side was done.
the second side was a little more stubborn coming out and going in again, that took a further 2 hours to remove and refit, but I got there in the end. took it for a test run to bed in all the bits then re-tighten the bolts and it was like a new car, much more positive handling.
piccies when I get them downloaded
Grendel

grendel
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Post by grendel »

IMG_1991small.jpg
IMG_1991small.jpg (70.58 KiB) Viewed 5079 times
yes the rubber between the inner and outer was generally missing. heres the finished job.
no heat or pulling needed, the technique I used once I had drilled the rubber was working the bushing left and right pulling by hand to extract the bush, one side came easily , the other took longer, but still came, I think if you pull on it too hard the rubber deforms and wedges tighter.
Grendel

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

grendel,

VERY Clever technique, WOW!

I like it!

No need for the Volvo Special Tool. There is where the Brits beat the Americans LOL.
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Looks like I'm gonna be doing this on the driver's side of my S70...been hearing a popping sound back there for awhile. Used a pry bar and that side is looser than the other (which is still tight)... Hope this takes care of the sound- was getting more and more frequent and annoying, although I have not noticed ride quality diminished. I could not figure out where else the sound would be coming from. It's loose anyway, so needs it just the same- Also just ordered the end link and bolt/nut from FCP...Thanks for the write-up Ozark. Will tackle it with a friend when I get the chance sometime in the next few weeks.
MIJ
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
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'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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