2002 s80 trans slipping swap or rebuild?

[June]

The subframe bolts are torque to yield bolts. So if you loosen them, then new ones should be used. Also these years have issue with the subframe bushings. I would closely scrutinize them or just replace them while you are there. On my 2004 S80 T6 replacing the subframe bushings made a night and day difference on the interstate. Been following this thread since the beginning and am looking forward to hearing SUCCESS! June

[bronco]

On the XC90, from the inside of the car, remove (push up) the rubber boot where the column meets the floor. Under the boot you will find a nut that you loosen and that is all that is required. Everything in the engine bay is left alone. I don't recall if the action is pull up to release or push down - make some kind of mark so you can true it up when you are done.

Did you disconnect the mounting points for the transmission lines, (maybe fuel around oil pan area) power steering lines and any electrical harnesses? Torque strut bar on top? I also think the coolant hoses on the firewall need to be disconnected for the lowering. Transmission harness from above where it enters the transmission? As to the lines, I don't recall removing any of them - just disconnecting them via some 10mm bolts/nuts. If you take it slow and go up and down watching for any hang ups you will catch any you miss. Each one is noted in VIDA - which if your tech friend gets going will make life easier.

I recall removing the driver side rear subframe bolt, maybe the driver side front - and just loosening a large amount the two passenger side bolts. Then lowering the engine/transmission on the driver side until it cleared the rail via the engine support bar I had running across the top and radiator support.

This was for my XC90, but it should be about the same.

There is a boot that you can pull up , I just saw the aluminum U joint with the 10mm head pinch bolt and assumed that was the way to undo it. I'll see what is under the rubber boot tomorrow

I had to pull the trans cooler lines off the trans they were too rusted to get off the tranny.
the torque mount on top is undone , front and rear mounts are the nuts are removed , the mount by the crank pulley is off , the bottom mount is unbolted ,the power steering lines are still attached at rack and pump but the clips are unbolted from the subframe, trans harness undone , i did not remove the shift cable or touch any coolant hoses , the subframe is loose and if you yank it it jiggles but there is something in the back hanging up , I thought it was the rack to column but it could be a coolant hose or wire harness or I am also suspicious of the rear motor mount, the nut is off but the stud doesn't move up or down like its free . If you jiggle the engine though the whole thing rocks so there can't be much left to undo. It may just be pinched from not lifting straight up maybe a floor jack under the motor will shift it a bit

Tomorrow is another day , this is kind of a back burner job the labor is basically bartered , a lot of which will be in the form of veggies from their garden and they are going to give me some firewood(I have to cut the trees myself off their land )

They bought the trans kit and they are basically broke the rest of the way so I told them it might take a few weeks , I can't miss work to do this so it may be a few hours here and there. It is tying up my garage though so I am motivated to finish kinda quick.

[SuperHerman]

Bronco - I feel your pain, but I am sure your good deeds are appreciated.

So we are clear - you are leaving the transmission in the car and just lowering the subframe to expose the valve body cover. That is what my notes pertain to. Assuming such - the engine can remain attached to the subframe - you are just lowering the unit. I believe you mentioned the axles have been pulled (both sides need to come out - with respect to the passenger side which is really long be careful here that you don't knock out the inner spring in the seal when installing or removing). The coolant lines have to be unhooked at the firewall as when the subframe drops they will get stretched. Unhooking the lines I mentioned where they are attached is to allow sufficient play for the subframe to drop. For example, if I recall correctly, the power steering lines need to be able to come down when the cradle comes down as the rack is still attached. Same for the gas lines and transmission lines that are seen running by the oil pan on the passenger side (plastic clips) - also the electrical harness up front (here the harness is secured to the subframe so when it is lowered it will stretch - when the harness is unbolted it can come down and the harness has enough play to not have to disconnect it.

Does this make sense? Engine remains on cradle - system has play for most of the lines to remain, but the securing points need to be removed for the needed travel.

[bronco]

ok so since the engine was unbolted i didn't try to reattach it to the subframe I just managed to unhook the steering shaft inside the car and sag the subframe way down low on the drivers side and took the passenger side subframe bolts almost all the way out. supported the subframe then lowered the engine until the cover would come off. Which actually required removing the front motor mount from the block and the mount from the oil pan and letting the front of the engine sag way down.
I did have to drain the radiator and remove the heater hoses from the core.

The side cover is off and I quit for the day. tomorrow i'll pull the guts out and make sure that I have everything I need to rebuild it hopefully I don't need any more parts.

That side cover is miserable mainly because of 2 strengthening fins on the top that make contact with the inner fender support . Also I think if I had pulled the lower control arm rear bolt out I might have been able to sort of ease the rear of the cover out and rotate it a bit to free up the top.

It kind of reminds me of doing oil pans on 80's and 90's era F series trucks , you think you have enough room under the pan but because the body of the oilpump completely fills the pan it almost needs twice as much clearance as it would appear to. In this case the solenoids inside the side cover hang you up.

[bronco]

I did start taking the innards apart just to get a jump on tomorrow , figured I would get as much fluid to drain overnight as I could.

The only annoying part was taking the chain cover off 2 of the bolts were insanely tight and they were the shallow headed bolts that sockets like to slip off of and I had to pound a 3/8 6 point wrench onto them and smack it with a hammer to get them out. They may need to be replaced

[bronco]

no broken bands but second clutch is shredded!!!

only 3 frictions in second clutch have material on both sides , there are 2 that are smooth on the outer edge and one is bare on both sides.
All are sort of conical so they wont lie flat if you put them all in and you put the snap ring in the clearance almost looks ok but you can put a flat screwdriver in there and then turn it sideways!
In other words the warp-age of the frictions is taking up nearly a 1/4 inch of clearance , it seems as tho they warped to take up the space so it could function as a clutch and just reached the point where that could no longer work

Can this cause loss of forward movement in 3 and D ? even though the band looks fine?

I'll have to check some other things I guess

[bronco]

It seems like if second clutch is the only problem then it should have been able to move in overdrive or drive but had no 2 3 or 4

wondering if something is not allowing forward band application maybe it was starting in second all the time with no forward band applied causing second clutch to get killed maybe a leaking servo or valve body problem?

[bronco]

Ok actually it is the band , it wasn't broken in half but the apply lug is sort of peeled up.

I didn't have my reading glasses on and missed it initially here is a picture of it and some of the second clutch's state

note the edge wear of the frictions , as they wore they became warped and the outer edges wore first of a few , i suppose even if the band hadn't broke at some point it would have been slipping in all forward gears and un drivable

[bronco]

The subframe bolts are torque to yield bolts. So if you loosen them, then new ones should be used. Also these years have issue with the subframe bushings. I would closely scrutinize them or just replace them while you are there. On my 2004 S80 T6 replacing the subframe bushings made a night and day difference on the interstate. Been following this thread since the beginning and am looking forward to hearing SUCCESS! June

This is the first I heard of the subframe bolts being throwaways

I was on rockauto today looking for a side cover gasket because the rebuild kit didn't come with one.

I just see subframe bushings no bolts , I think maybe they will have to be reused . The budget is already stretched to bursting . The owners have a credit card with a $500 limit and they are bumping up against it.

I will tell them about the bolts and tell them if they order new ones later I will put them in as part of the job.

They only drive about 100 miles a week and don't get on the highway so it should be safe for a bit.

In addition to the side cover gasket they need brake hoses and sway bar end links .


I should have the trans back ready for the side cover gasket by the time it arrives hopefully by midweek

[aussieviking]

Wow this thread took off! I've never seen a 2nd clutch so toasted.

How were the input clutch and 3rd clutch? Also check the splines on the 4th clutch hub, they are known to strip and you lose 4th.

Props to you for your hard work. It's not something everyone wants to get their hands dirty with.