Hit curb and CV axle broken. Time to junk it?

[FLXC90]

Axle goes in with a shove, should lock in by circlip. Use a ratchet strap and tie your now flexy strut into a stable position. Then fight it.

[goVolvo]

Chances are that my axle probably still works? I see the clamp ring on inner CV boot slipped off and the joint is separated. Got suggestion from folks at swdespeed.com. It is like following and just need to stick it in together and clamp on the boot and it should work? Then I don't need to remove from tranny at all.



Then I only need to get a steering knuckle from a wreck parts store and control arm from ipdusa or online.

I have worked on brake calipers before so the Now the challenge is the control arm bolts, and the big axle nut, while the whole thing is only tied on the struts. I'll try. If can't do it then will try find a mobile mechanic.

[abscate]

I was thinkIng that exactly. Definitely worth a try

[FLXC90]

And remember, your XC doesn't have the big nut on the Axle/Hub, it uses a bolt, probably with a rubber conical washer, much easier to deal with.

[goVolvo]

Today is a good day and I started unbolting the stuff. Almost done except for the 18mm bolt on outer tie rod. I don't have such a socket or wrench. Maybe an open wrench could do. Will try later.

The caliper bolts are weird 7mm Allen female head. I have a set of Allen wrenches but only 6mm, 8mm. So I took of the caliper brackets along with caliper, pads, and hang them there.

Thanks to the mild climate here. The bolts are all fine, not rusted much. Only one hard bolt for the control arm blocked by engine. I can't raise up the engine easily even after unbolting two engine mount bolts on side. Luckily I have a 17mm racket wrench can put on it but have to push the wrench up at the rear end. So I used floor jack to jack it up for the first push. And could extend the wrench with another leg and loosened it. So overall not much drama.

Control arm, CV boot clamp ring and tool are ordered and coming next week. Got wrecked wheel hub and knuckle for more than I expected. But it is not a big deal, just to support that used Volvo parts store. The CV boot looks fine so I'll just put it back, fill grease as much as I can and clamp it. I should replace yhe outer tie rod bolt but I'd just reuse it this time. If it runs again after putting back together I am happy enough. Will only run it locally as training and backup car. Also washed it in morning and looks cleaner now. But the fender clearly shows the sign of damage. Will be hard to resell. If it still runs maybe eventually I'll donate it.

[goVolvo]

Report back: car is back running. Thanks for help me learn.

Update: parts arrived so I worked on it yesterday and today. CV joint cleaned a little bit, 7oz grease filled, supported with the wheel on ground and a box.
Put back, carefully felt the groove and clamped on. Supported it with jack stand.
Seering knuckle put on strut with the lower bolt only so it is flexible. stick in the axle and bolt, and supported with floor jack from below.
Push it inwards as much as possible. It drops lower as strut is at extended position. Put the outer tie rod bolt on.
Control arm bolted on, not fully tightened. Pry it lower with a pry bar, and was able to snap in the ball joint and bolt it on.
Then jack up the whole thing with a floor jack and aligned the strut, bolted the other bolt on it.

So things are in place now. Bolts are hand-tightened. Take a break and grab the torque spec from VIDA then I'll tighten them up.
The outer tie rod bolt is a little tricky as it spins while being tightened. Need to find out how to hold it still.
Will report how it works after all done.

Today put it all back and test drove seems fine. Kind of like before, no weird noise.
Just the steering wheel now point to left when going straight. Time for alignment.

The damaged wheel well linen can't be put back to position and pivots at lower edge are gone.
Fender lower corner touches door. Body repair is hard. I'll give it one more try to see if I can press it a bit. Glad it doesn't make noise.

robably could never sell again. Good for a backup car. Hope kid still can learn and put up with it. Then I'll donate it maybe.

[FLXC90]

Good job! Glad to hear it is working out fairly well for you. I suggest another trip to the pick and pull for a fender and liner. But that is up to your discretion of course, and to fit your needs/plans for the vehicle.

[smacknab]

If it helps with the body work, i did decent with a heat gun and a hammer to roll my rear fenders. Not sure your specific body issue, but if the car is already no longer sellable you could try hammering any problem spots to get things into ok position. It chipped the paint off but only out of sight inside the fender, so i hit it with some paint for rust protection.