Hipcheck and his Volvo 850 Wagon

hipcheck · Post by **hipcheck** » 03 Dec 2020, 20:12

Ok I need some help on this one thing before I install the timing belt.

I rotated the engine and matched the Camshaft timing marks and the crankshaft timing mark. Then I placed the cam shaft locking device (as seen in pictures). I then cut out the old timing belt and eventually cut it out too when I had my problems.

I tried to remove the harmonic balancer and rotated the crank shaft obviously. I rotated it 2-3 times until I found the crankshaft mark on the gear. This is all while the crankshaft device is still locking the cams in place.

My question is this: can I just rotate it around until I line back up the timing mark on the crankshaft and install the belt or am I screwed?

I’m sure turning the crank rotated the cylinders/etc and pressurized everything but the Camshaft didn’t move as it’s locked in place. Am I correct in my logic?

Basically what step do I need to do to get this timing belt done?

Post by **j-dawg** » 04 Dec 2020, 00:11

If the marks on the cam gears and crank pulley line up with their counterparts on the belt cover and block respectively, you're ready to install the belt. You have to have everything lined up on install, but it shouldn't matter what you do before then, as long as the pistons aren't meeting the valves.

With the belt installed, turn the engine clockwise with your wrench and make sure all three sets of marks still line up after two full 360-degree turns of the crank. If not, you gotta redo the belt. Once it's on, avoid turning the engine counterclockwise as that may relieve belt tension and cause the belt to jump a tooth or two. Going CCW a few degrees is probably ok if you have to, but spin it 720 and check the alignment again afterwards.

While you work, C-clamp or zip tie the belt to the top of the cam gears. That way you have two hands to work the belt onto the remaining gears and wheels.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 04 Dec 2020, 08:45

Wait, If the crank has been turned with the cams locked and the belt removed, when you place the crack on the mark, is it 50-50 chance of being 180 degrees off of proper valve timing? Don't you need to check the relative piston location to match the valves? Otherwise the piston may be at top of exhaust stroke and the valves are at top of compression stroke.
Someone else jump in here and say if I am wrong.
volvolugnut

Post by **j-dawg** » 04 Dec 2020, 09:17

Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Each of the crank's two turns during the cycle are identical.

hipcheck · Post by **hipcheck** » 04 Dec 2020, 19:53

Lined up the crank again and going for round 2!

Not a big fan of this little timing mark. I have seen others with the notch on both upper bars and you line it up in the middle. I’m getting older and that was hard to find.

I also confirmed with the bar inline with it tucked under the harmonic balancer.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Dec 2020, 20:10

I went around and around with a 1998 this summer and couldn’t find the single mark even knowing where it was.

I used the harmonic balancer nubultimately

hipcheck · Post by **hipcheck** » 04 Dec 2020, 20:36

Ok, so I’m following the FCP video of the timing chain replacement video. @10:35 he says rotate the crank to remove slack. I do just a slight turn and the I put on the timing cover.....

And I’m not in alignment. My IPD tool was a PAIN to get in and maybe I was to low in the sprockets to lock it in place?

God I hate being the new guy who botched everything up.

I PLAN TO PULL THE BELT, rotate the cams 360 basically back to the timing marks and install the belt again?

Then turn over 2-3 by hand.

Post by **j-dawg** » 04 Dec 2020, 21:34

It's tough! You don't have to rotate the cams 360, just rotate them to be aligned with the cover notches. In fact you may not be able to rotate the cams 360 as a valve will probably boop a piston at some point.

It looks like those notches weren't lined up to begin with so check the cam alignment before installing the belt.

It can take a few tries to get all the teeth indexed right on the belt. I like to start with the exhaust cam and work my way clockwise - exhaust cam, intake cam, idler, crank. Make sure there's no slack in those. Then do the water pump and finish up by sliding the belt over the tensioner wheel. This way you maintain tension where it's needed - between the crank and the two cam gears - and you bring all the slack to the tensioner, which has no teeth so you can slide the belt onto it. I attached an image with the sections I'm talking about. Do the red part first, since slack here will knock the engine out of timing. The yellow part should come next. Then slide the green part over the tensioner. Clamp or zip tie the belt at the cams so you have two hands for this work.

You're almost there! It's frustrating until you get it and then it's good for 100,000 miles. This is one of the few things that can catastrophically wreck one of these motors, but once it's done it's done.

hipcheck · Post by **hipcheck** » 04 Dec 2020, 21:41

I removed the belt and cam locking tool and just rotated back into position. I removed the pin on the hydraulic tensioner and the rotated the crank 3 times. Dead on all 3 times and no binding/clunking/noises/etc.

After all my stupid mistakes I think the car will still work. Belt is pretty snug (can deviate just a bit with a heavy finger push)

Huge thank you to you guys who help out in these forums!

hipcheck · Post by **hipcheck** » 04 Dec 2020, 23:13

Time for more goodies!

Hipcheck and his Volvo 850 Wagon

Re: Hipcheck and his Volvo 850 Wagon