'97 GLT - Dash warning lights staying on after key is turned off. Topic is solved

[Chuck W]

What happens if the ignition switch is totally unplugged with the car otherwise having power?

When the lights and gauges were hanging ON, pulling the ignition switch plug did nothing. They stayed on.

The switch isn't the culprit here.

[wizechatmgr]

What happens if the ignition switch is totally unplugged with the car otherwise having power?

When the lights and gauges were hanging ON, pulling the ignition switch plug did nothing. They stayed on.

The switch isn't the culprit here.

That's depressing... =/

[scot850]

Sorry we are not getting you to a solution so far.

Like I said electricity in cars is not my strength. All I can suggest is based on my experience of P80's over 20 years and issues that have come up.

2 things that have caused weird dash light issues are the ABS module and its electrical cable connector and the B+ cable in the main fuse box shorting. B+ cable issue is more an issue on a 99- car but I have seen 98 and older ones having cable issues in the main fuse box where the cable ends coming from the battery. The cables melt and short out. Worst case setting the car on fire. Open the top of the kidney shaped main fuse box forward of the brake booster. At the front is a brass colored nut. If it and the area under it are discolored and dull, look very carefully at the wire below there as it melts and shorts out at that point.

Neil.

[Chuck W]

As I mentioned, this car does not have that secondary fuse/relay box in the engine bay.

[Chuck W]

Also, I'm away from the car this week, as we're on vacation.

We were planning on using the car, but it had other plans about 1/2 hour into our trip. At first glance, it appears the COP conversion I did in the ECU may be buggy. The #2 ignition driver circuit failed, twice. This was after a week's worth of good use to test things out. I tried to repair it when we got the car home after it dropped the #2 cylinder at the start of our trip, and it worked for the test drive. Then it decided to fail again as we were leaving again.

More work to do when we get home. Still no new leads on the main issue in this thread.

[Chuck W]

Welp, I figured out the problem. It was me.

Specifically it was the way I wired up the VVT solenoid for VAST's set-up.

I had mixed up my notes and wired the preheater wires to one side of the VVT solenoid connector and 12V to the other, instead of only the preheater wires to the solenoid connector.

THAT's what was back-feeding things. The gauges, etc shut off normally now.

Now to see if I borked the VVT solenoid.