Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Post by **packetfire** » 13 Jul 2015, 11:49

Thanks! I am glad I asked before taking the ETM off the car!
It is a bit funny that the photo they provide in their eBay listing for the part does not show the magnet:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290916223350

But I have written to them, and will report back with what they say. They refer to this thread as being the authoriative word on installing these things, so I guess that they understand that a magnet is required.

If overheating is the issue, would a shim plate between EMT and intake manifold help to thermally isolate the ETM?

Post by **precopster** » 13 Jul 2015, 15:14

The magnet is the round object to the right of the photo. I had a feeling you hadn't identified the magnet.

You would require thermally isolated mounting bolts requring a redesign of the body to gain any heat dissipation benefits. Its own ribbed/finned heatsink would help with a cooling fan directed over the ETM. Probably doable on a non turbo install.

Post by **packetfire** » 15 Jul 2015, 03:57

Then what of the tubular object in this photo?

http://s984.photobucket.com/user/yehei5/media/Volvo s60 PN 8644345 2001 non turbo ETM pictures/260420111998.jpg.htm

( or http://tinyurl.com/poqlosd )

From what I've read here, this is the magnet everyone adjusts. Is this one in the ETM already? I'm just trying to follow the instructions!

Post by **precopster** » 15 Jul 2015, 08:36

First link doesn't work. Second link has multiple photos. I have fitted more than 50 ETMs with Sacer contactless. The photo I referred to has the magnet on the right. It goes Between the 10mm nut and the large round black plate. However you need to cut the throttle shaft down by around 12mm so the contactless cap can clear.

Look at April 6th 2012 post I made in this thread It IS VERY clear what needs to be done.

The startup voltage with unit at idle must be between 1.25 and 1.55 volts.

This pic explains the fine tuning of voltages if required:

Post by **packetfire** » 15 Jul 2015, 18:15

The first link was broken by the MVS line-wrap, but the 2nd link goes the same place.
The first photo that appears shows a vertical brass tubular thing - from the text of the posts, on gets the impression that this is the "magnet" that is adjusted.

But the round molded cap does have a magnet imbedded, so if this is the magnet, then it looks like the only adjustment would be to turn the whole shaft, as the molded cap is keyed to the shaft. This is what I do not understand - if I turn the shaft, this opens or closes the butterfly valve in the ETM, so this can't be "adjusting the magnet". What am I missing here?

1) How is the magnet "adjusted" if it is imbedded in the black cap and the cap is keyed to the shaft?

2) If one is cutting the shaft off well below the cap's keyed hole, other than locktite, what holds the cap in place, and in correct orientation?

3) What holds the cap in place when one is measuring voltages? Or does it just sit there, on an ETM that is perched on something temporarily while it is connected to its cable?

Sorry to be so dense, I want to understand this before I take the thing apart, and I've rebuilt lots of carbs, but never one of these gizmos.

Post by **precopster** » 16 Jul 2015, 04:18

The brass tubular thing is just a gold zinc coated throttle stop screw with a concealed allen head to be adjusted only if the throttle plate closes so much that it chafes the aluminium housing so don't worry about it.

In response to your questions:

1) The D shaped hole in the round Sacer magnet (you should know it's a magnet because it will stick to metal objects)
is not a perfect fit to the D shaped shaft which is threaded at its base. There is 2-3 degrees of rotation on the magnet in relation to the shaft which is locked in place by tightening the 10mm nut. The 2-3 degrees of play will give you up to 0.25V of adjustment of the idle voltage. The description is in the photo above for voltage adjustment.

2) Don't cut the shaft below the thread of course. The cut is just above the thread. You need the thread for the 10mm nut. You get at least 3 threads for the 10mm nut once the magnet is dropped onto the shaft. The base of the magnet robs about 2.5mm from the available thread. The magnet base is plastic and crushable so as the nut torques down it acts as a locking compound. Loctite is optional.

3) Use a Quick-Grip builder's clamp on the cap and right across the ETM when checking voltages. Not too tight though as it plays havoc with the voltages. Then release to adjust the magnet's rotation and therefore the voltage. The Sacer's pins are brass so will bend and not touch the three contacts with each new volatge adjustment. You will need to bend them back in with each adjustment.

You won't damage it if you take your time and only re-apply power for the voltage adjustment through the thick green lead (12V+) and thick brown lead (-chassis) Just remember to remove power before each voltage adjustment while the cap is removed.

Of course if the motor magnet on the other end of the shaft is rubbing the armature you're going to have to grind down all 5 pins on the other end and remove the butterfly screws. After the butterfly screws are removed there will be burrs on the shaft. Only pull the throttle shaft out through the body if the burrs are removed. Once this is done you can fully remove the aluminium sheathing over the motor magnet. Under the sheathing will be iron filings. You can fully remove all the iron filings and return throttle shaft without the aluminium sheathing.

I have a business repairing these and I can say that each ETM has had almost unique characteristics and faults. They are a handful when working well and a mess when they don't.. To test ETMs I rewrite the firmware to my own vehicle for road testing then ensure they can reliably do 2-4 hrs of driving before rewriting the firmware to original.

jlferreira · Post by **jlferreira** » 16 Jul 2015, 17:45

I've performed the TPS change a month ago and a few days ago I got the same rough iddling that I had (p codes 1017, 1021, 1026, 1031). Last time I did have a problem with using epoxy, so the plate got stuck and wouldn't move, so I cleaned and worked just fine. This time the plate is moving freely but I noticed some few different symptoms.
When I got this at first time (a few days ago), I was starting the car and the lights for the battery went on, car shut off, and light went off. I also noticed that the throttle wasn't doing the clicking and whining, so I checked the plate (which was moving normal), I took the relay out and put it back and then the etm clicked and worked fine. The next day same thing, rough idle, took relay put it back and worked. So I was expecting to happen again so I could do a few tests.
Yesterday, I tried to turn it on and I got the rough idle. Tried taking the relay and putting it back and nothing, looked for the fuse #2 and it was blown, replaced it and still have the same problem.Voltage between the relay and battery negative is 12.2V.
My battery is measuring 12.2V and I have the same voltage coming to wiring for the etm. (Tested pins 5 and 6 on the connector).
I wonder if anyone have any ideas about this. The codes suggest that it's still a etm issue, but I don't know what it could be with all these different symptoms. Thanks one more time, guys!

Post by **precopster** » 17 Jul 2015, 17:26

If the ETM is blowing fuse 2 it's more than likely the magnet on the motor side (opposite side to contactless cap) has chafed the armaturre and is shorting the armature windings to ground. You may be able to catch this one before damage to the board occurs.

You need to grind down the 5 pins on the opposite side and knock off the oval cap exposing the 2 wires to armature then grind them off also. Once the 5 pins and 2 leads are removed you should be able to pry off the other cap.

Then remove the contactless cap, contactless magnet and black wire then remove the butterfly screws. You can then remove the butterfly valve but first take note of the markings saying "80 deg" and which side this is on. You'll notice that there are burrs on the buttterfly shaft which will scratch the ETM's bores if you try to remove the magnet shaft so try to deburr the shaft with a Dremel tool.

Once the magnet shaft is removed check the armature windings for damage. There will also be evidence of chafing on the aluminium cover on the motor magnet. If no evidence of damage you likely have a failed ETM board.
If the armature windings are damaged clean them then spray them with a craft lacquer to prevent corrosion.

Then use a Dremel tool to slice the aluminium sheathing and remove it as it's not necessary. You willl then find that the magnet is covered in iron filings which will all be removed at this point. Use of a nylon brush such as a toothbrush will remove them all. I have several in the field running without the cover and iron filings.

As a matter of fact the Maserati ETMs I've worked on are identical and have a plain magnet with no cover.

jlferreira · Post by **jlferreira** » 17 Jul 2015, 19:14

Thank you, Mike!
I just opened the bottom cover to check the voltage, and I'm getting 3.5v between pins 2 and 4! Ii used to be 1.35v and also when I move the plate in order to open it, the voltage drops and not rise as it should!
Have ever seen these symptoms?
Thank you!

Post by **precopster** » 18 Jul 2015, 02:56

Yes readjust the magnet's starting position in relation to the shaft. The starting voltage has either dropped below 1.25V or above 1.55 volts.

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures