Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[jlferreira]

Thank you, Mike.
But this is why the voltage is dropping and not rising when I move the plate, or I still have an issue with the motor side cap?

[precopster]

No motor side cap is out of circuit. Stick with Sacer side and readjust the magnet in relation to the shaft. I use a builder's clamp to hold the Sacer cap on while I find the optimum magnet position. Sometimes it takes forever to find the correct position.

There should be a tell tale double click on startup when incorrectly calibrated.

[jlferreira]

Thank you, Mike.
I'll try to readjust the magnet and see if it works. My reading last time was 3.5v, do you think that just readjusting the magnet it'll get closer to the 1.35v that I need?
The last time I had the etm connected it did the click and few seconds whine, even measuring 3.5v between the pins, does it mean the calibration is corrected but I have another issue?
I'm still thinking about the dropping voltage when turning the plate open, it should do the opposite, right?
Anyway, I'll try to readjust and then update here how it was.

[precopster]

Your soldering could be suspect. Is the soldering shorted to ground or with another pin? Photos?

Remove, resolder the Sacer cap first then try. If this doesn't work try the magnet. The rotation is in the photo I just posted on the 16th

[jlferreira]

I opened the sacer cap yesterday took the solder, cleaned both etm and sacer pins, bolted the cap back and put it in the car. Car started normal, took for a ride and nothing wrong. Voltages between pins 1 & 3 is 1.35v, like it use to be.
I'm gonna resolder, seal it, put it back and see if it works nice.
Basically, if starts running rough again or blow the fuse #2, do you think I will have to open the motor cap? Also, what type or brand of silicon do you use, Mike?
Thanks one more time!

[precopster]

As per my post on the 15th regarding blowing of the fuse.

I started using an all purpose Selleys product that is for interior gap filling. It is non acetic and easy to remove when dry.

[jlferreira]

Thank you, Mike.
Yesterday I did all the cleaning and resoldering and put it back to the car. Started fine, run it around the block and no sign of rough idle. Filled it with a non acetic silicon and tried again this morning, and no problems still. My hope is that there was a problem with the solder because I didn't do anything else than resoldering the pins and being sure that they are clean.
Is there any other symptom than the fuse blown for the motor side cap issue? Would it run rough or don't even run?
Hope to have fixed this. Thank you again for your time, Mike.

[precopster]

If the motor magnet rubs you will get codes because the tp sensors can't log the desired angle when requested. It may shut down and limp home or if it blows the fuse it's the same effect.

[jlferreira]

Alright.
The resoldering didn't do the job.
I'm getting codes P1026 and P1031, and when I turn on the car the throttle don't do anything. If I take the Engine Relay out and put it back the throttle starts working but runs really bad, not limp home but the acceleration response is not good. The fuse did't blow again.
Trying to move the plate I can feel a slighty resistance, but it's almost unnoticeable.
So best option now is to open the motor side and check it?
Thanks,

[precopster]

When the unit heats up the tolerances change and even more rubbing occurs. This alone will send over current codes to ECU and cause limp home.

Open it up before the board is damaged. Just totally remove the aluminium sheathing & iron filings from the motor magnet. If you caught it early enough it will work fine after you do this.
My post on the 18th July explains the process.