FDPP #2

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 17:20

I tightened the top nuts to almost 45Nm. Way too much, so it's no wonder they stripped.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Oct 2020, 04:22

gnalan wrote: ↑06 Oct 2020, 16:04 The small nuts were barely tight when I was trying to get the strut off, and I torqued them down to 33ft-lbs and stripped the bolts that the little nuts are on. Does anyone know what the actual torque specs are so I don't mess up the other strut when I do eventually get it on? Also the torque specs for the two big bolts, and the nut on the sway bar link?

Tighten the three spring strut mounting nuts to 25 Nm (18.44 ft. lbs.).

The should not have stripped at 33 ft lbs but they aren’t hard to replace. You might have to drill them out if the plate. They don’t take much load, they just locate the top of the strut in the strut tower and stop it from falling down when jacked up.

The two knuckle to strut bolts need to be new and get two tightening steps. 50 ft lbs is a healthy arm pull on a 12 inch bar , then you tighten another 1/4 turn ( 90 degrees)

Use new screws and nuts. Tighten to 65 Nm (47.9 ft. lbs.).
Angle tighten 90°.

Sway bar link is 50 Nm ( 37 ft lbs), calls for a new nut but this one is less critical.

Post by **gnalan** » 07 Oct 2020, 07:41

How does front wheel alignment work if the bolts are one time use only? Don't the bolts need loosened to adjust the camber?

Post by **cn90** » 07 Oct 2020, 07:51

The big bolts at the knuckle, I re-use them all the time.

Zero issues...

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Oct 2020, 08:29

Technically they should be replaced, but I've never replaced the strut to knuckle bolts. Only if they're really rusty and nasty, otherwise I'll reuse them. Never a problem over many, many miles.

I HAVE had sway bar link nuts loosen up, twice to be exact on my V70R. Once the top and once the bottom. A drop of blue loctite would be a good idea here.

Post by **cn90** » 07 Oct 2020, 08:41

Yeah,

All of my suspension bolts/nuts get some Loctite.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Oct 2020, 09:04

I use orange Loctite on mine , it also automatically regenerates

Post by **cn90** » 07 Oct 2020, 16:30

Nah,

Blue Loctite is for the Democrats.
Red Loctite is for the Republicans.
Orange Loctite...you have to ask the man in the White House lol...

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Oct 2020, 19:25

No more blue for me then

Post by **gnalan** » 25 Nov 2020, 18:06

Thank you all for the parts you graciously donated to me, also for all the help/tips/advise you had for me, and the programming on the ETM. It's all helped make my car a lot safer, and I don't feel as nervous driving it now afraid that I'm going to break down at any time.

Engine runs great now, and the idle doesn't jump around on me anymore. Thank you for the ETM, and help getting it reprogrammed too. After adjusting my gas pedal sensor to work in a new spot on the strips, it drives great.

Suspension feels a lot better on the passenger side too. Between the new LCAs I put on it, and the right strut assembly, it rides a lot better. The driver's side strut hisses and needs replaced now, but I'll get around to it when I'm able to.

Headlight switch is still working great, and I can see at night now (which is a huge help). I was also able to turn off my DRLs to help the battery stay in new condition while I was doing a lot of different things in VIDA there for awhile. I may turn them back on now just in case the switch goes bad again I'll still have a little light from the DRLs like I did before so I can see a little in the dark.

Thank the rest of you that sent me parts that I didn't post above as well, and a huge thank you to Matt for setting up this program.

I'm going to call this solved now.

FDPP #2

Re: FDPP #2