FDPP #2

Post by **abscate** » 06 Oct 2020, 05:11

Pump electronic module.

It’s a palm size module that controls the fuel pump. They get corrosioninside in wet climates in the 12-15 year age timeframe

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 10:58

I've already replaced the fuel pump right after I bought the car.

Where is the PEM located?

My car is rust free, surprisingly with the salt they use on the roads here in the winter time. I see newer cars all ate up with rust, yet my car is spotless. Even when I changed the fuel filter the bolt and clamp both looked like they were brand new, and the bolt came free just as easy as any other bolt I've removed.

About to do the strut, and I'm hoping I didn't just curse myself. I really don't want to break the bolts on it.

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 11:01

Here's the fuel filter I removed. I can't tell if it's the original one or if it's been replaced before.

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 13:25

Isn't that the top washer sitting on the bottom of the shaft? Someone obviously didn't know what they were doing when they tried to fix the strut. (Unless I'm wrong.)

Post by **abscate** » 06 Oct 2020, 14:41

gnalan wrote: ↑06 Oct 2020, 10:58 I've already replaced the fuel pump right after I bought the car.

Where is the PEM located?

My car is rust free, surprisingly with the salt they use on the roads here in the winter time. I see newer cars all ate up with rust, yet my car is spotless. Even when I changed the fuel filter the bolt and clamp both looked like they were brand new, and the bolt came free just as easy as any other bolt I've removed.

About to do the strut, and I'm hoping I didn't just curse myself. I really don't want to break the bolts on it.

Actually you want the bolts to break, since you replace them all on strut work. New bolts and nuts per Volvo. These are critical torque to yield fasteners so they need to be fresh.

That fuel filter looks brand new! POlish it up and sell it here as a 'tested fuel filter'

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 15:22

I already poured out the gas, and tossed it in the trash. Used parts are ok, but I wouldn't send someone a used fuel filter unless I had put it in and knew that it didn't have many miles on it. I could have sold it as an antique...

I couldn't get the strut bolts to break loose, or break at all, but I did manage to strip the upper bolts on the strut tower. I looked on here, when I did a search, and found 33ft-lbs for the nuts. Apparently that's not right, or the bolts on the top just aren't strong enough to handle that kind of torque, or my torque wrench isn't calibrated to spec anymore. Whichever it is, how likely is it that the top bolts will break while I'm driving? I haven't come this far just to end up wrecking my car.

(We have a lot of potholes everywhere, and hitting one on the freeway at 65mph is bad enough without having to worry about wrecking too.)

Post by **cn90** » 06 Oct 2020, 16:01

- Big bolts on the struts (where they go into the knuckle): PB Blaster, WD40 etc. then propane torch for a good 30-60 sec.
It will come loose, as long as the factory Loctite is melted.

- The small nuts on the top of the struts, I have always re-used the factory nuts bc they are very good quality.
If you need these small nuts, I can mail them to you...

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 16:04

The small nuts were barely tight when I was trying to get the strut off, and I torqued them down to 33ft-lbs and stripped the bolts that the little nuts are on. Does anyone know what the actual torque specs are so I don't mess up the other strut when I do eventually get it on? Also the torque specs for the two big bolts, and the nut on the sway bar link?

Post by **gnalan** » 06 Oct 2020, 16:22

Since it took the guy an hour with an impact wrench to get the lugs off, and the strut looks like it's been messed with before, I'm not sure I have enough arm strength to loosen the strut bolts. I don't have an impact wrench or I would use it and just snap the heads off, drive the rest of the bolt out, and then put new bolts in.

It's getting closer to being freeway ready, it's just not there yet. The car is running great, but I don't trust the front suspension after stripping the top bolts on the strut tower.

I'm sure I've said this many times, but I really do appreciate all of the help I've gotten from this program. I couldn't have gotten to where I'm at with the car without it. I didn't expect as much help as I've received, but I'm thankful for the parts, ETM programming, and the help I've gotten from everyone that's given me advice. I can't thank you all enough.

I wish Matt would let me pay him back though. I'm sure I've racked up quite a bill. That was my plan since the beginning, was to make payments for the parts, because I couldn't afford the total cost all up front. I wasn't expecting anything, and everything, to just be given to me for free.

Post by **cn90** » 06 Oct 2020, 17:16

Here is the DIY I wrote a while back:

viewtopic.php?t=89777

FDPP #2

Re: FDPP #2