1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 18 Aug 2016, 17:21

Greetings!
As it turns out, one of the hoses to the canister under the front driver's wheel well was not on completely. That seemed to correct the up and down nature of the idle. Picked up a small battery charger that can be used overnight without overcharging.

I did grind away some of the rust on the rotors and drums, at least it is not as loud going down the street!

In the process of bleeding the brakes, three out of four bleeder screws came loose with only PB blaster, but the fourth (driver's front) broke right off! S**t was my reaction. I did have an extra caliper and after installing that with the pads, the bleeder screw on that one does not want to budge either. I have applied lots of heat and used PB blaster, all to no avail. The brakes are pretty soft after bleeding three out of the four calipers, pumping and pumping them sometimes stops the car, but heavy pressure on the brakes eventually stops the car! Any suggestions on how to bleed the last caliper with the reluctant bleeder screw? Or suggestions on how to extract the bleeder screw that broke off? Appreciate all suggestions! I did try one of those bits that has a reverse pattern for extraction but the tip got lodged inside the bleeder screw! I did manage to drill out most of the extraction bit.

Not sure what to do about the SRS light on the dashboard. Does this have to be corrected before a NYS inspection? I am way overdue for an inspection but all these other issues keep propping up.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Aug 2016, 18:09

It's messy but you can often bleed a caliper by cracking the flare fitting at the caliper but this needs to be two person bleeding.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 18 Aug 2016, 23:06

Indeed it is/was messy! I did this, but the brakes are still very soft. It almost feels like air is getting into the system somewhere.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Aug 2016, 04:31

You can pass NY state without a working SRS ( and with light on). I can swing through with my AUTEL and try read and reset on this, too. Is this new? If you power up car with any SRS stuff disconnected it faults and won't reset.

Did you get the extractor out of the hole? Best bet is to keep going up in drill sizes until the edge of the bleeder is reached, it will then fall out like magic.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 28 Aug 2016, 09:22

Thanks for the offer on the SRS light reset! The light came on a few years back when it was well below zero degrees F when crossing the US/CDN border near Massena. Been on ever since. When this happened before, I ended up paying $80 to have it reset!

I did manage to drill out the extractor bit, but ended up installing another caliper I had handy; it also had a stuck bleeder screw. I have used PB blaster and heat to no avail on both calipers, and on the replacement caliper I sensed the top part of the screw was about to twist off like on the other caliper, so I did not push it. I did manage to bleed that brake line again, but the second time I use an extra elbow from a vacuum line (stretched enough to fit over the brake line connector to the caliper) and slightly larger plastic tubing to prevent air getting into the system. When time permits, I will attempt to drill out the bleeder screw to the now "extra" caliper. I have used increasingly larger drill bits and am beginning to see threads, so I am close!

The CEL keeps showing P0505 and P0130. I did replace the IAC with a used unit and the idling is better (not racing up and down) but the code is back. Will do another cleaning on this unit. For the P0130 I still think it's a small exhaust leak, where the pipes from the muffler and from the cat meet. But still need to raise the car enough to see/feel where the leak is and if it is "weld-able", and give the O2 sensor a cleaning. Any suggestions on these two issues that you all might have are always appreciated!

Post by **abscate** » 28 Aug 2016, 11:59

A dental pick is a great tool for pulling out the threads once you have drilled the minor diameter of the bolt - it doesn't have to be centered - once it releases the threads in anyone place they will come out like Slinkys being let loose...

Dont know about those codes and I'm an IAC idiot...we don't have them on 1999-on.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 27 Nov 2016, 17:26

Greetings! A happy belated Thanksgiving to all!!

I am having some issues with the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) OR maybe it is something else. Appreciate your reading on....

I have soaked the bottom part of the IAC where the valve rotates in simple green and it has come out pretty clean. I have done this to a few IAC's that I picked up at the salvage yard; some were disgustingly layered with black gunk.

When I installed the first re-newed IAC the CEL came on pretty quickly (within about 2 miles) and the IAC was very toasty to the touch. Wondering if the IAC should be that hot!?! The car idles around 1100-1200 and declines to 1000 when I change gears with this first IAC. When I installed the second re-newed IAC, the CEL came on but not as quickly the first (about 5 miles), but the car idles higher than the first (@1500) and even higher when I push in the clutch (2000 to 2500). Is this related to something other than the IAC? I have cleaned the throttle plate which was not very dirty, but will double check the positioning of the plate.

Should there be a gasket of some sort between the throttle body and the vacuum tree? Would the lack of a gasket cause more air intake?

I do know that the plastic tubing that connects the throttle body to the air filter tubing is slightly cracked where the clamp attaches it to the throttle body (this is the same plastic tubing that has the oil trap connected on the back side that connects to the PCV under the intake manifold). Would this small crack cause enough air intake to result in a higher idle?

Am attempting to clear the CEL without having to purchase a new IAC and to pass NYS inspection. Appreciate any and all replies/suggestions!!

Many thanks!

Post by **abscate** » 27 Nov 2016, 19:24

You need a good gasket on the throttle body as air leaking in there will be unmetered (MAF) does not read it so you will run lean and fast. That will also give you a quick CEL as your fuel trim will go off range quickly.

Get those codes read to confirm.

Cracks in the vacuum tubing....all bad. You can fix these with parts from Advance or Pep boys in SYR.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 27 Nov 2016, 20:55

Between the throttle body and the intake manifold there is a gasket, but am wondering about underneath the vacuum tree - that is bolted onto the throttle body. Is there supposed to be a gasket between these two parts (vacuum tree and throttle body)? When I am in the salvage yard and I find a V70 (98-00) and I remove the vacuum tree, I have not noticed a gasket between the tree and the throttle body; hence my question above.

On the IAC valve, I have installed new hose clamps on each end of the two hoses to eliminate any air intake from those areas.

I placed a piece of post-it note paper between the top and bottom parts of the throttle plate and the inner part of the throttle opening, there is more room at the bottom than at the top, so I will try to adjust this as best as I can, after I find the right size star bit (15)!

I cut a piece of black plastic off another semi-flexible tube I had and will place that over the cracked area of the air intake tubing the clamp covers when I tighten it. I do hope these adjustments/improvements will do the trick.

Am still wondering about the higher idle when I push in the clutch to change gears. Can someone explain to me how these two seemingly unrelated movements effect one another? Appreciate your insight and replies!!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 27 Nov 2016, 20:56

The DTC that comes up is P0505.

1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

Re: 1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!