Drivers door power window switch repair

[Hausfrau]

HELP, my front passenger window is not going up.

This might seem like an easy fix after reading the post in this forum on how to remove and clean the master switch, but it did not work for me.

I decided to skip the cleaning process and bought a new master switch instead ( v70xc 1998 )

However, installing the new switch did NOT solve the problem.
Now the automatic door lock doesn't work any more either. Neither on the old nor on the new switch.
The automatic door lock works on the passenger side switch though. I have also ordered a new switch for the passenger side, but was wondering if anyone might have had the same problem? Can it be the motor, even though the window went down on the old switches, but not up?

Its raining and cold and I am about to go on a long trip. Why now??

[Ozark Lee]

The problem could be with the switch on the passenger's side. The master switch is the "usual suspect" but you really need to use a DVM to check voltages at the passengers side window and work your way back.

If you need to get the window up then you should be able to use a battery or a battery charger and go directly to the motor wires.

Start at the motor wires (The Green wire and the White wire on terminals 4 and 5 of the large connector). They should toggle between + battery voltage and - battery voltage as the window up and window down switch is pressed - both the local switch and the master switch.

If you have no reading there then test the voltages between the Blue Wire on pin 1 and, individually, the White wire on pin 2 and the Blue/White wire on pin 3. One pairing should read battery voltage in the window up position from the master switch and the other pairing should read battery voltage when the window down position is pressed on the master switch.

If you get good readings on the motor wires and no motor movement check the resistance between the Green wire (pin 4) and the White wire (pin 5). It should read a fairly low resistance as in under 100 Ohms. If it reads open then the motor is bad or the wires from the connector to the motor are bad.

If you get good voltage readings between pins 1/2 and 1/3 but not between pins 4/5 when the master switch is pressed then that indicates the passenger's side switch is bad.

This would be a lot easier to explain if I could post the schematic but the Volvo legal team prevents me (as a moderator) from doing so. Other posters can chime in and they are not precluded from posting diagrams the way I am.

In order to get the window to go up or go down you can hook up 12 volts DC directly to the Green wire (pin 4) and the White wire (pin 5). Reversing the voltage source leads will change the window direction from up to down. Only apply external voltages to those two wires and do so only with the connector unplugged.

...Lee

[mamoss]

Worked well, thank you so much!
1 little note: after cleaning the door lock switch doesn't spring back like it used to, but it still locks/unlocks all doors

[kevn]

Very good, thank you.
Can I add... that some silicone spray on the window glass felt stuff tracks is a big help to keep the whole window machinery alive and un-stressed.

[rmmagow]

EBay's got some switches in the 35.00 range for new part. Not total junk, I bought one for my to-be-sold s70 and it works well. I had a little trouble getting it to fit but really for the price not too bad. Will it last? don't know, won't know but it sure was cheap. Amazon has switch doctor for $55.00 and I have that in my V70 for the past 3 years.

[Bob 88]

Sometimes the lacquer on the heater knobs and door switches breaks down with age and becomes "tacky".
The best way I found to clean the stuff is "Wynns brake and clutch cleaner".
I was told that the problem was caused by new environmentally friendly compounds used in the lacquer which do not age well.

[JBRollo]

A can of Radio Shack contact cleaner and a can of compressed air (used for electronics) from Wal Mart really improved the process. Thanks for the instructions. It makes all the difference.

[rude]

This quick fix was one of the best write-ups I've seen in this forum and has helped me greatly. However, during my most recent switch repair, after all the cleaning, the drivers window still would not go up everytime. I realized that under one of the contacts the contact and the striking metal were worn. So I purchased a new one from switch DR. however, my window was still in the down position. So instead of taking the door apart and wiring up a battery to the window motor, I took a pencil with an eraser and without putting the cover of the switch back on I plugged in the window switch and pushed the contacts together with the eraser and the window went up.

[BEJinFbk]

FYI - There's no need to pull the door panel to power up the window.
The motor leads come straight to the switch. If you have the switch
out of the armrest, you have the wires you need right there.

[Peixinho]

Just to say thanks to the contributors for this DIY. A couple of months ago i found out that the rear right window didn't come up on driver's switch, but that was not the problem. today the driver's window didn't come up and I just fixed it. thanks!