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P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
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iceracer
Posts: 16
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: v 70 1998 N/A
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Re: PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder

Post by iceracer »

Thanks gents. I yanked out one of the spark plugs just for curiousity. It is tan colour (my wife would say, thats not tan, thats taupe, get it right :) ) all around the electrode, but I can see the electrode is all rounded off and probably shorter, I did not check the gap.

I see these bosch platinums with the four electrodes available. I'm considering these? They are bosch, in there now but I cannot recall what the part number is.

Its a normally aspirated motor, 5 speed, its just turned 250,000 km recently. We're a quarter the way to 1 million kms..... :)

precopster
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Post by precopster »

With the non turbos you require a different plug to the turbo cars. Multi electrode plugs which are matched to your car type are fine.

The OEMs for non turbos are multi electrode (3 in fact)
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

precopster wrote:...
The OEMs for non turbos are multi electrode (3 in fact)
Are these the correct type?
Non-turbo spark plugs
Non-turbo spark plugs
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erikv11  
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Post by erikv11 »

Yes, those look lie the Volvo plugs for a non-turbo. I use those or Bosch coppers.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Little bit of carbon (if dry) or oil (wet) fouling on plug second from left. Not too bad though. Worth watching to see if it gets worse.
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banjoman
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Year and Model: 850, 1996
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Post by banjoman »

Help. I have replaced the PCV on my 96 850 wagon (non-turbo), replaced the manifold, and tightened all of the bolst except the one on the bottom next to the starter; that bolt refuses to go in all the way. There is a gap of about 1/8 between the bolt and the manifold. Though it took a few tries, the bolt seemed to go in smoothly at first but began seizing up about halfway in. I assume this bolt needs to be snug, but please advise if that is not the case and I don't need to worry about it. Given the location, it is extremely difficult to work with.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

banjoman wrote:Help. I have replaced the PCV on my 96 850 wagon (non-turbo), replaced the manifold, and tightened all of the bolst except the one on the bottom next to the starter; that bolt refuses to go in all the way. There is a gap of about 1/8 between the bolt and the manifold. Though it took a few tries, the bolt seemed to go in smoothly at first but began seizing up about halfway in. I assume this bolt needs to be snug, but please advise if that is not the case and I don't need to worry about it. Given the location, it is extremely difficult to work with.
Do you have a swivel socket?

Is there a small metal bracket in front of that screw that is getting in the way? If so, remove it - it isn't needed.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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charleskennedy23
Posts: 127
Joined: 11 November 2014
Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Post by charleskennedy23 »

HI Friends,

Just did this job last night and ran into a big issue when I was done. Went to crank the car and it would't turn over. I got out to inspect the engine to see what was up and there was fuel all over my block. I used this post as a reference but I did use the FCP video by Ben McNalley as my main source. Which means I removed the fuel rail and the injectors. I put new gaskets on my fuel injectors when I put it back together.

Fuel smell indicates I messed something up on the fuel injector reinstall, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

charles
Charles Kennedy
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Probably just an unseated injector or fuel damper seal.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

SpeedyPete
Posts: 133
Joined: 2 October 2010
Year and Model: S70-T5, 1998
Location: California, USA

Post by SpeedyPete »

Hello all: Here are a couple of things to consider when doing the PCV Repair. I have done a few of these and have found that the fancy OEM or aftermarket hose set which runs between the trap and the PTC nipple are the weakest link in the chain. I use 1/4" and 5/8" Fuel/Emission hose to replace this unit. It is a lot cheaper and does a better overall job. I also use a 1/2" copper 90 degree fitting on top of the trap with 3 hose clamps to make a nice clean no stress bend for the 5/8" hose connection at this point. There is plenty of room to do soft bends following the OE routing for both hoses without kinking. If you want you can drill out the PTC nipple at both ports to enlarge them (I did this) however I did not notice any change by doing so. Also if a rear exhaust cam seal leak is concurrent with this repair as was my last one, USE ONLY VOLVO BRAND SEALS. I bought 4 different seals for this and when you mic them you will find very slight differences. Stay with Volvo Brand seals only. They are worth the extra money. I hope this helps and best regards, SpeedyPete 8)

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