P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

Trenchcoat · Post by **Trenchcoat** » 18 May 2010, 12:23

I just got done this morning with the PCV replace. I had to replace a piece of tube I didn't get out of the IPD kit. It runs under the manifold to the flame trap housing. It broke in about three spots so I replaced it with a section of polyurethane hose. I hope that will do alright. Aside from that, I replaced the rear cam seal and the serpentine belt. Unfortunately, I'm still getting that white smoke from the dipstick hole. Also it seems that the last person to change the oil decided to torque the drain plug way too much. I'm letting some PB blaster soak in, but I'm not sure if it will work.

Trenchcoat · Post by **Trenchcoat** » 22 May 2010, 13:29

Just to update, I took my car on a 600 mile trip(not the best idea right after an overhaul by an amateur mechanic :/), and the oil leak rate is much better now. It may also be the other things that were replaced/changed. I'm now using 10w40 high mileage instead of 5w30 after the oil change, and I replaced the rubber gasket on the oil filler cap. I also added a bottle of Auto-RX to the crankcase following the oil change. I didn't have to add oil at any point during the long drive, but I could see some slow drips under the engine when I parked. I don't really know what my next move is, maybe I'll just have to live with this slight leak.

gdict · Post by **gdict** » 27 May 2010, 16:26

This is a great writ e up. I feel a lot less daunted about doing this work on my girlfriend's V70.

A comment about the Oetiker clamps. Frankly, anyone doing this level of adavanced DIY should own a set of Oetiker crimpers. You can buy them for about $20 on ebay. They have both end and side jaws and are designed to not over crimp and accidentally cut the clamp. They are made by Knipex, part number 1099i. Just search "Oetiker" on ebay.

I once bought 72 of these on eBay for about $2 each, then sold them for $14.99 over the next six months. Every buyer was tickled pink with the great deal and quality of the tool.

Cheers!

Greg

PS: you'll need these for your CV boots as well. They're also used in draught beer installations....

polska · Post by **polska** » 28 May 2010, 08:44

A few comments on this job:
Tedious with hard to access bolts. Expensive parts. Make sure to replace your main seals.
I did a related job last night, air pump and sas valve. Easy job, but again, expensive parts.
I don't know if other cars are as complex with the emissions related systems, but it is certainly a boring, expensive, and tedious thing to work on.
The result of this emissions related work: my next car will not be a Volvo. Probably all new cars are stupidly complex like this, so unless there's one on the market that's known for simplicity, I'll stick to the late eighties, early ninties used market. I have a modded e30 that I've spend less than 5 grand on - certainly not as "plush" as my V70 sled, but easy and fun to work on, cheaper parts, and really really fun to drive. And no emissions testing! Whoo hoo.
Sorry to play the hater today, but I'm sure that many of you also have a bone to pick with Volvo engineers. This particular system would be mine.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 28 May 2010, 12:07

I thought somebody has hacked into my account and posted something from my account. lol

polska · Post by **polska** » 01 Jun 2010, 11:37

It's in honor of my Polish bride

My blood is Irish though.
Speaking of Polish mafia, have you seen the movie Dlug?, or Debt?
Zayabischa.

looncraz · Post by **looncraz** » 03 Jun 2010, 00:34

I think most people here with N/A do not need a full PCV system job.

I have taken several apart and not a single one has yet needed the full replacement. The worst one had maybe 10% blockage.

The PCV breather box has no internals, it is merely a box. It doesn't normally become very brittle.

The real way to test is to rev the car off-idle and watch the positive crankcase pressure (PCP) vanish ( or not in the worst case, where PCV system may be compromised ).

If you only have PCP @ idle then you can rest assured you have a small vac line that is plugged going to the flame trap assembly. Normally the nipple is plugged as well.

Use a small drill bit to drill ( by hand ) the nipple as well as possible ( you should be able to get all of the way into the main assembly and see the bit through the flame trap orifice ) and flush the vac line with a carb cleaner or seafoam and some low pressure until it is cleared.

Then you are done. The smoke from the dipstick is gone, and you can go another 50-80kMi before doing it again.

I mean, seriously, do y'all think Volvo did that bad of a job designing the system?

It has more than double the capacity of the PCV systems on engines of similar size and is made of higher quality materials.

It is wonderfully designed and should never require total replacement.

Of course, this is all anecdotal.

--The loon

Post by **marginal** » 10 Jun 2010, 22:07

looncraz wrote:If you only have PCP @ idle then you can rest assured you have a small vac line that is plugged going to the flame trap assembly. Normally the nipple is plugged as well.

Isn't the flame trap present in the non - turbo engines only?

Thanks.

Post by **jblackburn** » 10 Jun 2010, 22:18

Yes. Your GLT does not have one.

Post by **marginal** » 10 Jun 2010, 22:33

Thanks jablackburn.

So, I guess I will have to change the whole PCV components then ...

P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

Re: PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder