Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Questions

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 May 2010, 17:47

The original timing marks looked fine to me. At an end of the service life of the belt it has grown a tad and the marks won't be perfect.

Many of our members swear by the cam locker tool but I have never used one. So long as you pay attention as the belt goes on it really isn't necessary.

...Lee

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 20 May 2010, 20:13

The cam lock tool has a role whenever you are installing new cam sprockets. The tool will make it much easier for you to reliably get the sprockets in the proper (factory) orientation on the camshafts (there is a few degrees of play). I'm not saying there's no other way to do it, but that's when the cam lock is not simply pointless. Just putting on a new belt there is no use for it. Even reinstalling old sprockets, you can just match up to the old bolt marks.

Post by **MNCO1** » 20 May 2010, 21:10

I had the same experience with the cam lock tool. Tried to do everything exact and the cam tool ended up being in the way. The cam timing marks are approximate benchmarks. I think the marks on the cams need to stay within the cutout on the cover. I had my crankshaft mark right on and the cams locked in tight but regardless how I struggled with the new belt I could not get it to mesh properly between the crank and the intake cam. It had too much slack. Ended up pulling that damn locking tool out and rotating the intake cam one way or the other a tiny bit. That got the belt nice and taught. I had to do the same, just a hair with the exhaust cam. Only then did the belt provide enough slack at the tensioner to fit in. I didn't pull the pin till I reviewed my marks and everything still looked okay. I had moved both cams however the marks were still within the cutouts on the cover.

Post by **Hoov** » 20 May 2010, 22:03

MNCO1 wrote:I had the same experience with the cam lock tool. Tried to do everything exact and the cam tool ended up being in the way. The cam timing marks are approximate benchmarks. I think the marks on the cams need to stay within the cutout on the cover. I had my crankshaft mark right on and the cams locked in tight but regardless how I struggled with the new belt I could not get it to mesh properly between the crank and the intake cam. It had too much slack. Ended up pulling that damn locking tool out and rotating the intake cam one way or the other a tiny bit. That got the belt nice and taught. I had to do the same, just a hair with the exhaust cam. Only then did the belt provide enough slack at the tensioner to fit in. I didn't pull the pin till I reviewed my marks and everything still looked okay. I had moved both cams however the marks were still within the cutouts on the cover.

I have never done a belt change on a volvo! ... But I have done a bunch of them on other vehicles & have NEVER found a "cam lock tool" to help. Great Idea on paper but it always seems to just "get in the way". .
My point is that I will just trust my own vision & line it all up as I see it, per factory specs.
Hand me a "cam lock tool" for a belt change & I will simply hand it back to you. I don't believe they help for belt changes.

Hoov

Post by **1997volvo850** » 21 May 2010, 08:53

Okay, so the cam locking tool is useless.

I'm assuming that the cam locking tool fits when the existing belt and cams are in perfect alignment.

The cam lock looks like a precision machined tool that is intended to fit between the cams exactly
with little tolerance for error.

It would then seem useful, in my opinion, for getting the cams back into perfect alignment before finishing
the timing belt install.

I'm not sure how to do this if folks claim it interferes with installing the belt tightly between the crank and
intake cam. Maybe getting the belt on the crank and intake cam and then installing the cam tool would ensure
proper alignment.

Just trying to rationalize the $30 I spent on the tool...

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 21 May 2010, 09:04

There is no rocket science here; "perfect alignment" --- there's no way to be off by less than a full tooth! Just put the belt on, nudging the sprockets if it helps you, check that the crank mark is lined up, and then it will be easy to see if you're a tooth or more off on the cam sprockets.

If you spent only $30 on a cam locking tool, it's not the Volvo one for the rear-end slots of the camshafts, so it has no use at all on this car. Put it on ebay.

Post by **MNCO1** » 21 May 2010, 11:22

Well, since you have the locking tool go ahead and use it as much as you can. Get your alignment, especially the crank spot on and insert that tool as best you can. It just has to jam a little to prevent further movement of the cams. All four prongs didn't slide into place for me. Think I found a way to insert three. Do all your work knowing that the cams haven't moved then attempt to put your new belt on. If the teeth don't line up with a nice snug lay between the crank and the intake cam, you'll have to pull the locking tool and make a very slight adjustment on the intake cam and maybe another on the exhaust cam. Take all the slack out of the belt as you go or you may find it doesn't allow you to string it around the tensioner correctly.

Post by **shiloh51933** » 21 May 2010, 13:42

I have not had the pleasure on doing a TB change on this car yet but have on other vehicles and always done it by eye. One thing I do know is if it is on wrong or too tight you will fuck your crank up and I have unfortunatley have experienced this on a very expensive Mustang Saleen 1992 back in the winter of 1996 and destroyed a 400 HP Dream Car. So be very careful that everything is lined up correctly and not too much slack or too little slack. I know the working area is very tight and I fortunately bought a 96' 850 GLT with 90,000 and the previous owner's mechanic wrote the TB change date and what mileage it was done on the TB cover at about 65,000 I believe.

petek153 · Post by **petek153** » 21 May 2010, 15:18

Just to throw my input in, I purchased the IPD cam tool and used it to replace a 93 850 and a 94 850 timing belt and I found that it did work on both I did have to install it IPD lettering upside down on the 93 and right side up on the 94 ???? I guess it was the wear on the belt that wouldn't let me install it the same didn't really think about it at the time but it held good and solid fits tight , and if you look at the pins you can see there is a difference in spacing. I also marked the belt to cam so I knew that the number of teeth between the cams were the same when I got done.The only other thing that I had a hard time with is trying to get the crank nut off which I never ended up getting off I just ended up working the belt in around it.Another note:The lower crank timing mark on the pulley couldn't figure that out until I located it on the pulley flange away from the motor something I didn't find noted in the write ups that people have done, I would of thought it would be on the backside towards the mark on the motor. Second belt change went alot smoother and quicker. Thumbs up to FCP Groton, I had ordered the wrong parts and was able to call and order the right ones,went and picked up at there warehouse a hour away parts were waiting and full credit given on returns. Shipments always reached me next day after ordering.

Post by **1997volvo850** » 22 May 2010, 10:06

I've discovered a laptop sitting next to my car is critical for a timing belt change...

So, got the timing belt off. I'm stuck trying to get the timing belt tensioner roller off.

The tensioner roller has a Torx 45 bolt holding it in place.

With my stubby and a Torx 45 socket I am able to move the engine yet the Torx bolt doesn't budge.

The last thing I want to do is strip a bolt in this location. PB blaster has been applied.

Any advice is welcome...no I can't drive it to the dealer...I managed to get the timing belt
off the crank...what a pain in the ^%$.

I'll move on the the idler roller for now.

Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Questions

Re: Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Question