Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Try cutting the shaft down a little more; one of the guys here got codes beacause it was interfering with the magnet.

I've attached a diagnostic chart & troubleshooting sheet. Exactly WHICH codes are you getting?

What codes did you get before the fitment?

[yuckuJackD]

Old codes:


New codes:


No more fake accelerator and brake pedal position codes, but the car is running max to 2000 rpm with no power (like a grandma )
Misfire 6-th cylinder i belive is because of too rich fuel mixture, because the throttle doesn't open enought and 1-st and 6-th cylinders remains allmost out of air. Just thinking, you know.


Some measurements made on pins while the car was on (idle):
Sensor 1: 1.22V
Sensor 2(by the black wire): 1.18V
Original disconnected sensor: 1.40V


Other tought: Am I fine to solder with inductive sildering mashine? or the good old fashioned one is better for such jobs?

[yuckuJackD]

OK, i've redone the install and cut a bit more the shaft:


Compared to before:


Still the same behavior (damn I want to hit sth)

So I made some measurements. In fact in the unit there are 3 sensors, right. 2 from Sacer contactless cap and one original which is disconnected, but is still working actualy, we just don't use it. I name them this way:
1. the sensor from the Sacer's cap
2. the sonsor given by the Secar's cap by the black wire
3(Orig). The original sensor which's pin is disconnected, but still measuring (for nothing)

OK, we got 3 critical positions of the unit. 1. When fully open; 2. when fully closed (only on startup ign); 3. default off/quiescence/normal position.

I filled this measurements in a table:


WOW - there is BIG difference!
Sacer's sensors are giving me 0.2-0.3V lower values than the original sensor.
What now (drink a cup of poison or fire the car)

Idea: To play abit with the magnet cap, so it stays a couple of degrees rotated clockwise then now. What do you think?

HELP PLEASE

[precopster]

Yucku does the unit start when ignition is turned on? Does it later switch off bw 6 and 12 secs after ignition on?
In ETM Communication- Parameters tab double click Potentiometer Sensor 1 and Potentiometer Sensor 2 and read their resting values (should be more or less equal not 108 degrees) If it goes to 108 degrees there is board damage.

With unit plugged in and ignition on does the throttle flap move when pedal is pressed before the 6-12 sec shutoff?

In Delivery tab have you chosen Erase ETM ?

The codes you have combined
show board damage unless you haven't cleared them


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[yuckuJackD]

precopster, thanks to Your assistance so far.

Yes the unit start when ign on (going to full close). I'm not sure whether shuts down after 6-12 sec's because I'm alone and couldn't hear clearly the sounds, but when doing the measurements from the upper post I did them on ign on, and the body was in it's normal off position, so I guess it's shutting down. Just not sure when exactly.
Yes, I erased ETM, switched off the car, wait more than 5 minutes (with fan off) and when ign on to read the car - codes come back immediately.
Codes once again:

Don't mind the fuel pump signal missing - it's because the car is equipped with aftermarket LPG system and while driving on LPG the power for the fuel pump is cutted.

I made some screenshots of VIDA's life data with checked Potentiometer Sensor 1 and 2 + Accelerator pedal position:

Direct link

No measurements even near to 108 degrees, but I end up with the decision that the Throttle unit got an internal error, caused by me while I was trying to separate the pins heating them. Am I Right?

I believe I got somewhere around another Throttle unit with bad Potentiometer Sensors, so when I find it I'll give it a shot.
I'll report the results when done.

Thanks to precopster once again.

[precopster]

I've started to repair these locally and have an ad on eBay here in Australia and I have repaired 3 of the 6 that have been sent to me. Unfortunately many of them suffer from board problems before they arrive and many end up being returned.

One had a engine management relay problem but the unit turned out really well.

One of the customers wanted an XeModex repair after the board accepted input only from one side but unfortunately they didn't return a fax message and 2 voice messages. He went elsewhere and purchased a new one.

Yucku I think you did your best but heat is not what these boards need, perhaps this was the reason. Noticed you had almost 1 degree difference b/w sensors and this is OK (within tolerance) If you do this again use the Dremmel tool and only heat when soldering; I think it will go better.

[yuckuJackD]

I hope this time to be nice straight clean repair.
Thanks for support.

[nadja]

Hi Forum,
I also have an issue with the ETM. I ordered the SACER sensor with Yeduha from Israel. When removing the putty, i thought I needed to open the black cap where the 5 pins are located, in order to remove the putty under the 2nd contact.
In that process, 2 wires from the spool and don't really know where they were attached. Could anyone give me any halp on this one?
Photo is attached.

Thanks,
Clemens-Nadja
Canada
Volvo V70 T5 - 2001

[yuckuJackD]

[precopster]

Cut the oval shaped protrusion you can use a sharp blade to slice it off from the outer side of the sensor.

You'll see the posts that you can solder these wires to. They are providing power to the coil for the throttle flap motor

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