Cracking upper engine mount bushing, is it safe to drive?

[xHeart]

The diagram shows two lower bolts and nut. There is nothing else, few gentle taps all around, with a wooden block. Some lubrication.

It is obvious, that the torque rod needs to come out first.

Simply awesome j_!

[xHeart]

I agree, go with OEM or with aftermarket parts that have an established reputation performing better than OEM. This platform has been around for decades. Companies know what tends to fail and have solutions for them.

True. In fact, I shouldn't have cheaped out on the right engine mount (the one beneath the crank pulley). I just received the Febi/Bilstein and the paint job is crap. It's got a stamp that says Febi/Bilstein Germany, but it says Made in China on the box. Looks like a counterfeit made by Scan Tech. I might send this one back and get the Volvo part (Lemforder) for 3 times as much.

Chinese made automotive products just aren't up to snuff. I wish they had better quality control, but they just don't. There are only a few things from China that I like: iPod, XBox, and Dell laptop. All the rest have been disappointing, including Chinese made tires (too stiff).

I quickly learned that it is better to stick with Volvo parts for items where there is an infrastructure component.

[j_cd]

The diagram shows two lower bolts and nut. There is nothing else, few gentle taps all around, with a wooden block. Some lubrication.

Found some info in the Haynes manual, which I just got the other day. It says "prise the bracket off it's locating dowels on the engine. It will be tight on the dowels, and a certain amount of levering will be necessary".

I guess we're gonna try to pry it off then. Will report back.

[j_cd]

You want to pry here.



Also pry near the rear bolt hole, then lever it out.



It also helps if you have a friend who is good at this sort of thing.

[KlubMarcus]

I finally have a poly upper engine mount. I had to hire pros after I broke a socket! There is so little vibration felt at the steering wheel versus OEM because two worn lower engine mounts were replaced beforehand. The OEM mount was so worn out that the engine would move significantly and clunk when shifting. Now the shifts are smoother, no clunking. After I do an ATF drain and fill it should be even smoother. Plus all that weight isn't rocking back and forth during acceleration, braking, and turning.

[xHeart]

I am no where with the subframe bushing replacement. I wonder if upper torque rod bushing replacement experience help with the removal and installing. Any one?

[treestone27]

As you can see, my bushing on the upper engine mount broke out of the mount collar. I have a 2000, s80 t6.

I see an after market bushing of polyurethane as an option. When i look up the oem parts, i can't tell if i have to order more than just bushing. The same part number on the volvo diagram from my local volvo dealer is priced at $50 and $370.

It looks like my car has done the hard part for me of getting the bushing out. So, i just need to to figure out the oem option to compare with the after market polyurethane bushing option.

Here's the volvo diagram from my dealer where 24 appears to be the metal mount (with bushing in there) for both $50 and $370.

Any help would be appreciated!

[precopster]

There are at least four mounting bolts holding the upper mount assembly to the top of the cylinder head. Removal of the spark plug cover and removal of the turbo inlet piping will reveal those other mounting holes. If you're patient you can mount the assembly in a vice and work on it to change out the bushing. Using a hacksaw blade can remove the old bushing's casing.

Whether you replace the whole assembly or just the bushing it will need to come off.

[xHeart]

Mike is correct about procedure.
I will replace the complete mount, easier that way.
Hutchinson is OEM, look here for $42.87 http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Engine-Support-Bracket-__8671633_HUT_629E7937.aspx