P80 MASTER STUCK OIL FILTER CANISTER THREAD Topic is solved

[FireFox31]

I've researched "the Crafstman filter removal tool" in preparation to remove a 1998 oil filter which has been on for six years.

Craftsman part CMMT98352 is the current three prong tool. I suspect it is contract manufactured, a company makes the part for many sellers and Craftsman simply puts their name on it. The prongs don't look as good as its predecessor 47064.

Craftsman part 47064 is a three prong tool. It was made in USA around 2012. I trust its three prong design would really force the filter to rotate and its prongs seem quite sharp. I don't have this tool but I recommend setting a saved search on eBay to find it.

Craftsman part 46955 is a two prong tool. It was made in USA probably around 2000. I found a sealed one on eBay for $25 shipped. Hopefully it will provide rotational force instead of just continuing to clamp inward on the filter.

[abscate]

Those 917 can filters don’t get too stuck in my experience. I think I went to the chain vice grip wrenches on one them, but that’s one out. Of 20 filters changed

[scot850]

There are 2 issues I find with the can type (-98) filters.

1) not using some oil on the face of the rubber seal when fitting a new one,
2) installers using a wrench to tighten them.

They do not need to be wrenched on to seal correctly. If you do then there is an issue with the can filter. I have used that type on my Volvos since 1975, and had to use brute force to remove only those fitted by others. In one case I ended up hammering a large screw driver through the can and then I was able to remove it.

Correct installation is, oil on the seal wiped on with a finger (don't need to go crazy). Then wind on until it is tight and finally grip hard and give it a good turn with your hand(s) only.

On the 99- versions the are sometimes really tight. Again I have found the seals to have been dry. Oil on the seal to fit and slowly winding the cap and filter back on giving the seal time to keep up. Continue till it stops and then torque as per spec. Can't recall what that is 25Nm on all cars that use that style.

Hope this helps.

Neil.

[mrtinker]

I have a stubborn oil filter, an insert type filter with the stupid plastic housing that I can't get a good grip on. I've broken several of the band-type filter removal tools & reread this thread a few times just to find hope of getting this thing unstuck. Seems like most of the posts are about the metal can type filters, curious if anyone has some specific strategies about the insert filters with the plastic housing.
(I did see keirelan's post about attaching a hose clamp and then whacking it with a hammer. Can't seem to find enough room under my Volvo to swing a hammer effectively)

[jmartin919]

I use this kind fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-heavy-duty-oil-filter-cap-wrench-cta-tools-2489#fitment

[MoVolvos]

I've researched "the Crafstman filter removal tool" in preparation to remove a 1998 oil filter which has been on for six years.

Craftsman part CMMT98352 is the current three prong tool. I suspect it is contract manufactured, a company makes the part for many sellers and Craftsman simply puts their name on it. The prongs don't look as good as its predecessor 47064.

Craftsman part 47064 is a three prong tool. It was made in USA around 2012. I trust its three prong design would really force the filter to rotate and its prongs seem quite sharp. I don't have this tool but I recommend setting a saved search on eBay to find it.

Craftsman part 46955 is a two prong tool. It was made in USA probably around 2000. I found a sealed one on eBay for $25 shipped. Hopefully it will provide rotational force instead of just continuing to clamp inward on the filter.

.
I tweaked and bent the claws on one of those.
.

[MoVolvos]

I have a stubborn oil filter, an insert type filter with the stupid plastic housing that I can't get a good grip on. I've broken several of the band-type filter removal tools & reread this thread a few times just to find hope of getting this thing unstuck. Seems like most of the posts are about the metal can type filters, curious if anyone has some specific strategies about the insert filters with the plastic housing.
(I did see keirelan's post about attaching a hose clamp and then whacking it with a hammer. Can't seem to find enough room under my Volvo to swing a hammer effectively)

.
When you do remove it be sure to stop turning when the housing hits bottom during installation. Unlike can filters which requires pressure on the gasket to seal, the canister o-ring is already sealing when it first goes into the metal housing. Threading it to the end is so the filter and housing is mating properly. Once the canister is seated it will not back out so no torquing is needed unlike the can filters. If it leaks it's because the o-ring was twisted or damaged during the tight squeeze when it first enters the metal housing. Silicone grease or clean oil on the o-ring will help.
.
Be sure to degrease the canister housing for better grip.



.

[abscate]

Channelock makes a massive pair of slip joint pliers which will grab either oil filter or canister, and employs fine people in Erie PA in the craft of tool making.

You can get the Harbor Fright version cheaper, too.

[volvolugnut]

Unlike the special oil filter tools, the giant slip joint pliers have other uses.
volvolugnut

[FireFox31]

I have a stubborn oil filter, an insert type filter with the stupid plastic housing that I can't get a good grip on.

I agree with jmartin and use the CTA 2489. It grabs the 1999-2000 plastic filter cover perfectly (unless the cover is banged up). For reinstallation, I can put my torque wrench on it and tighten it to spec (written on the plastic cover, I believe). Yes it's bulky, but I store it nestled inside my CTA oil funnel which I also recommend.

I did finally use the Craftsman metal filter remover linked above, but on a pickup truck. It took a little getting used to but it worked. Still have to try it on my 1998 whose filter has been on for seven years now.