Intake camshaft has VVT unit on it, that's why sprocket feels "detached" from shaft. Make sure you didn't move camshaft while played with sprocket, otherwise you'll be off 1-2 teeth, and engine won't be able to adjust variable timing at full degree. You can remove camshaft position sensor from the other end of shaft and double check if it's horizontal.
Though pro's are able to change T-belt w/o locking camshaft sprockets, even with VVT on both shafts, it is much easier for others to use locking tool. IPD sells one, which fits really nice: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5127/109 ... cking-tool
I used Lisle 36880 tool in my first change and still was off 2 teeth.
Timing Belt Recommendation
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Water Pump Replacement 2002 S60 N/A
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precopster
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The reference for an out of phase camshaft is to turn it clockwise until marks are re-aligned.
I had this problem on my S60 a couple of weeks ago and I was using that identical GMB kit minus the WP when the exhaust VVT camshaft moved about 10 degrees anti clockwise so I grabbed a piece of pine wood and slowly tapped it with a hammer CLOCKWISE until the mark lined up.
The first time I tried this I overshot so I wound the VVT gear back to its ANTI-CLOCKWISE stop position then tapped it anti clockwise so I could have another attempt. It is nerve racking the first time. With the tensioner removed the timing mark on the crank is more visible. Also if you remove the lid of the computers it gets your eyes into a better position to sight the marks.
The first time I ran her I got cam code because I aligned the crank one tooth too advanced. Redid it and no more codes.
I had this problem on my S60 a couple of weeks ago and I was using that identical GMB kit minus the WP when the exhaust VVT camshaft moved about 10 degrees anti clockwise so I grabbed a piece of pine wood and slowly tapped it with a hammer CLOCKWISE until the mark lined up.
The first time I tried this I overshot so I wound the VVT gear back to its ANTI-CLOCKWISE stop position then tapped it anti clockwise so I could have another attempt. It is nerve racking the first time. With the tensioner removed the timing mark on the crank is more visible. Also if you remove the lid of the computers it gets your eyes into a better position to sight the marks.
The first time I ran her I got cam code because I aligned the crank one tooth too advanced. Redid it and no more codes.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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covert24
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Awesome guys! Will attempt to realign everything tomorrow after I drop my girl off at work.
Got home today at 5 and proceeded to take a accidental 8 hour "Nap", so no work was accomplished. Will start fresh in the morning as I need the car this weekend!
Got home today at 5 and proceeded to take a accidental 8 hour "Nap", so no work was accomplished. Will start fresh in the morning as I need the car this weekend!
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covert24
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Alright I got everything lined up and bolted on. Water pump and all. Marks I made on the cams are perfect with the marks I transferred over to the new belt.
Now the kicker.
In the fcp video of the timing belt change for the s60, when he's turning the 6mm Allen hole, the temp arm snaps back after he goes over the I'd say 8-9 o clock position and then he proceeds to bring it back down to the recommended 7 o clock position and then tightens the center bolt. Well no matter what I friggin do, this arm is not snapping back when I pass that 8-9 o clock position and when I get to the 7 o clock position and take the Allen off, the arm just releases all the way to the left (no tension). The center bolt is just under finger tight while doing this so that can't be the problem...
What the hell am I doing wrong here? The one time I got it to stick in the 7 o clock position, I went to tighten the center bolt an it just went back to the stock position. I am at a loss right now as I don't know what else to try.
Also, it seems like the tensioner is supposed to sit into the block a certain way. The reason I say that is of this little notch in the back that I have taken a picture of. I have the two arms on either side of the recess but that little tab on the back has got me thinking.
Give me some insight guys. My DD is SOL at the moment :'(
Now the kicker.
In the fcp video of the timing belt change for the s60, when he's turning the 6mm Allen hole, the temp arm snaps back after he goes over the I'd say 8-9 o clock position and then he proceeds to bring it back down to the recommended 7 o clock position and then tightens the center bolt. Well no matter what I friggin do, this arm is not snapping back when I pass that 8-9 o clock position and when I get to the 7 o clock position and take the Allen off, the arm just releases all the way to the left (no tension). The center bolt is just under finger tight while doing this so that can't be the problem...
What the hell am I doing wrong here? The one time I got it to stick in the 7 o clock position, I went to tighten the center bolt an it just went back to the stock position. I am at a loss right now as I don't know what else to try.
Also, it seems like the tensioner is supposed to sit into the block a certain way. The reason I say that is of this little notch in the back that I have taken a picture of. I have the two arms on either side of the recess but that little tab on the back has got me thinking.
Give me some insight guys. My DD is SOL at the moment :'(
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precopster
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Before you loosened the centre bolt to remove the old belt did you take note of whether your allen was at 7 o clock before you removed it or was it about 2-3 o clock?
Depending on engine number you'll have a different start position. My '01 XCs start position is at approximately 2 o clock.
Depending on engine number you'll have a different start position. My '01 XCs start position is at approximately 2 o clock.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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covert24
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Well the video that fcp posted was for a 01 s60 non turbo. The car I'm working on is a 02 s60 non turbo. I figured it would be the same as in the video. In other words, no, I didn't take note :/
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precopster
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He mentions it in the video. Have a good listen again.
It depends on engine number.
My S60 AWD turbo is at 7 oclock, but my other early turbo is at 2 oclock.
It depends on engine number.
My S60 AWD turbo is at 7 oclock, but my other early turbo is at 2 oclock.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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precopster
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If you end up at 2 o clock I imagine you would need to begin at around 5 or 6 o clock then turn anti clockwise to 2 o clock. Just supposing......
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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covert24
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If I start it out at 5-6 o clock its impossible for me to get the belt on since its already in a position were its tensioned.
It seems like I have to start it out at the same position as in the video for it to have enough slack to slide it over the exhaust cam.
PS, these are the tabs on the tensioner that fit into the block. Are you supposed to be able to rock those back and forth while there is no tension? Or is it supposed to be completely stationery?
It seems like I have to start it out at the same position as in the video for it to have enough slack to slide it over the exhaust cam.
PS, these are the tabs on the tensioner that fit into the block. Are you supposed to be able to rock those back and forth while there is no tension? Or is it supposed to be completely stationery?
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