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SOLVED: 1998 S70 base - rough idle, odor, undrivable (culprit was distributor cap) Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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sleddriver
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Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
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Re: 1998 S70 base - rough idle, odor, undrivable

Post by sleddriver »

Glad you figured it out! Frustrating, no doubt. While on the subject of ignition, check both the date & brand of the ignition wires. If they're more than 10yrs old and NOT Bougicord, replace them. Be carefull when installing new ones to keep them well away from the crank & camshaft position sensor wiring. You may also want to verify that wiring still has insulation on it.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM

MagicBus
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Post by MagicBus »

RickHaleParker wrote: 16 Dec 2017, 15:30 I just picked up a new distributor cap from the store, just in case the old one is cracked and that's how moisture got in there.

With the engine running, lift the hood in the dark, see if you have a personal thunderstorm under the hood.
I did that the other day when I first suspected the ignition coil (it looks like I have a spare now). No such activity seen.

MagicBus
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Post by MagicBus »

sleddriver wrote: 16 Dec 2017, 23:49 Glad you figured it out! Frustrating, no doubt. While on the subject of ignition, check both the date & brand of the ignition wires. If they're more than 10yrs old and NOT Bougicord, replace them. Be carefull when installing new ones to keep them well away from the crank & camshaft position sensor wiring. You may also want to verify that wiring still has insulation on it.
I installed them myself in September 2016. They are Bougicord and were brand new at the time. Whenever I buy a used car, I tend to do ALL maintenance items to get the car to a "0 mile" state in terms of maintenence as my starting point. This car was a slight exception. The timing belt was only halfway through its lifespan, and everything looked OK upon a visual inspection with the covers off, so I decided to wait on that.

MagicBus
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Post by MagicBus »

wizechatmgr wrote: 16 Dec 2017, 14:57 Good deal.

You could also smear generous amounts of dielectric grease around the seal of the distributor cap.

I used to have that intake problem when working on the older "new beetles." Their intake boot is/was some sort of what felt like rubber and over time it deteriorates to the point where you have a fight to the death to get it on - just to find out it isn't sealing...
I'll check the cap for cracks today and seal it with something. I like the idea of dielectric as opposed to silicone. But. I'll need to stop and get some.

As for the intake boot, I really just didn't seat it properly nor clamp it down. Complete rookie mistake. Not a problem with the parts. Just my dumbassery.

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FLXC90
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Post by FLXC90 »

Glad to hear you got it back to drivability. When I got my S70 a couple years ago, compression numbers were all over the place, and one was drastically low, like yours. I did two top-end seafoam treatments (sucked into the intake through the vacuum tree) about three days apart. Got all 5 around 175=180 with less than 10% variance.
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)

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