camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

[RickHaleParker]

If you put a different color in each fluid. You would be able to tell what is leaking just by shining ultraviolet light on it and trace the leak back to the source.

Different color for A/C refrigerant, Engine Coolant, Engine oil, Transmission fluid, Power steering fluid, Brake Fluid.

I would not do the Windshield Washer fluid. Condensation off the A/C would be colorless.

[Goldchemist]

So, looks like my oil leak is solved. No oil dripping. However, now I've got the P0017 code. My hubs did not seem like they were spring loaded so I don't think the problem is with the hubs. When I put them on and tightened the hub bolts there was no spring action, they just spun freely. I'm thinking it could just be the tensioner on the timing belt. Is that possible? It seemed like there was a little slack in the timing belt and I couldn't tighten my tensioner any more. I really hope I don't have to remove the hubs again, but I guess its better than the oil leak.

[RickHaleParker]

P0017 Possible source

• 1. Poor engine oil quality
  2. Incorrectly adjusted camshafts
  3. The timing gear belt has jumped off the cogs
  4. Damaged camshaft reset valve
  5. Mechanical fault in the variable valve timing (VVT) unit.

Oil change over due? Got sludge?
Hydraulics is used to change the hub position. Try disassembling the Camshaft Reset Valve and cleaning it out. Older ones can be disassembled newer ones can not be disassembled. Do not recall when they made the change from old to new. Also clean out the Oil galleries directly under the Camshaft Reset Valve.

[Goldchemist]

Hi Rick,

so, my engine oil quality should be very good. I change my own oil strictly every 8,000 miles. I use castrol synthetic. I recently replaced my whole PCV system as well. And I replaced my camshaft reset valve not too long ago as well. (about 30,000 miles ago) Of course it could still be both 1 and 4 above but I'm leaning towards number 2 because of all the work I just did on turning the camshafts and lining everything up. I'm just assuming that since I had to adjust the camshaft a little with the camshaft locking tool, and then putting the hubs back on maybe they are off by a tooth or two? I didn't use the spring-loaded hub installation technique shown in some of the videos. My hubs didn't spring load. I just stuck them on lined up with the marks I made before I took them off.

I will check the oil quality and the camshaft reset valve though. Easy enough to take off the camshaft reset valve and clean her out. I've done that before. Also thinking about taking off the CPS's and lining up the camshafts again with the locking tool, then reinstalling the hubs. I don't know, I'm thinking that when I tightened the CPS bolts into the backs of the cams they moved a little. But I guess this engine will adjust the hub position from what you're saying? Like, even if it was off a little the engine would compensate? I will keep reading as much as I can find. Thanks for your help.

[RickHaleParker]

When you have the camshaft reset valve off, take some solvent and clear out the galleries leading to the hub.

[Goldchemist]

I took off the camshaft reset valve and sprayed some solvent in there. the galleries had some nice golden brown oil in them before I sprayed them. Looked pretty good in there. I know I should have started her up and drove around after doing this so that I'd know if that was the fix...... but I couldn't resist checking out the timing belt and cranking her over just to be sure she was still at top dead center. I use the scientific method all day long. When working on a car though sometimes you just need to fix what you can while you're in there.

My timing belt is somewhat loose. I can slide it side to side on the timing sprockets (gears?). It seems loose. like It should not be that way. But, I went and turned the engine over a bunch of times and my marks all keep lining up perfectly. And I did notice that the exhaust hub did that shimmy again when I was turning her over. The exhaust hub kind of wiggles out and then wiggles back in while I'm turning her over. Next thing I'm going to do is take the timing belt off and fit it back on again making sure my tensioner is set perfectly. And last but not least, take the CPS's off the back of the engine and make sure the CPS triggers are lined up and that the camshafts slots are parallel.

I am also going back to that CVVT hub changing guide. It has some good instructions for tensioning the belt that I didn't understand after the first read.

[RickHaleParker]

And I did notice that the exhaust hub did that shimmy again when I was turning her over. The exhaust hub kind of wiggles out and then wiggles back in while I'm turning her over.

Are you saying the CVVT has axis play? That is the CVVT will move perpendicular to the axis of the cam. If so, how much?

[abscate]

The timing marks are not TDC, the are specifically being off TDC on every cylinder

If you can slide the belt on the sprockets it is way too loose. Do not start. THats is likely to Pop off and start a really bad day. Something is wrong, bad belt or tensioner ismy guess

[Goldchemist]

Yes, the CVVT has axis play. it moves out towards the passenger wheel well about 2mm and then back towards the engine. does that make sense? (I'm thinking that is parallel to the length of the camshaft axis.) I notice it when I'm turning the engine over by hand.

and yes, I can slide the belt on the sprockets. its definitely way too loose. I already drove it about 60 miles. once I got up to about 50mph there was very low power. pulled it back into the garage. turned the engine over by hand again about 6 times and all my marks are still lining up so I'm pretty sure the timing is good. Just that the belt is loose. The hub moving in and out still bothers me though.

[RickHaleParker]

What process did you use to adjust the Tensioner?

How does your hub play compare to this?
Around here a VVT hub from a Pick Your Part is $6.60. Small price to pay for insurance.

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