New Volvo 850 Purchase!

[abscate]

The Volvo hardware is by far the best out there, its made by Bulten of Sweden.

Get OEM bolts for the thermostat and water pump. Maybe $15 in all.

7 water pump bolts
Part Number: 985151
Supersession(s): 979090


2 thermostat bolts
Part Number: 986228
Supersession(s): 969156

[scot850]

If you have not already pressure washed the engine then good! If you have, remove the distributor cap and dry out the rotor arm and cap. You should not wash these engines with distributors and wires without first carefully wrapping the distributor to keep water out.

Good luck with the new car and looks like the guys are helping you out well. Great bunch of folks on here!

Neil.

[454cid]

The Volvo hardware is by far the best out there, its made by Bulten of Sweden.

Get OEM bolts for the thermostat and water pump. Maybe $15 in all.

7 water pump bolts
Part Number: 985151
Supersession(s): 979090

Are water pump bolts really necessary? I see some timing/pump kits have them, and some don't. I wouldn't think something like a water pump would stress them too much. My normal procedure would be clean them up with a wire wheel, and coat them with an appropriate substance.... anti-seize, thread locker, or sealant depending on the engine particulars. Then torque them to the proper amount, possibly adjusted if anti-seize was used. Unless, are they torque to yield?

2 thermostat bolts
Part Number: 986228
Supersession(s): 969156

I thought these were known to be a problem?

[454cid]

If you have not already pressure washed the engine then good!

I have not. In part because it's so cold, right now. I'm a little concerned with water freezing before it can evaporate. Thankfully this engine isn't too awfully greasy, so cleaning will wait.

[erikv11]

The Volvo hardware is by far the best out there, its made by Bulten of Sweden.

Get OEM bolts for the thermostat and water pump. Maybe $15 in all.

7 water pump bolts
Part Number: 985151
Supersession(s): 979090

Are water pump bolts really necessary? I see some timing/pump kits have them, and some don't. I wouldn't think something like a water pump would stress them too much. My normal procedure would be clean them up with a wire wheel, and coat them with an appropriate substance.... anti-seize, thread locker, or sealant depending on the engine particulars. Then torque them to the proper amount, possibly adjusted if anti-seize was used. Unless, are they torque to yield?

I'd be comfortable executing the plan you outlined. That's what I do, unless I happen to get a water pump that shipped with bolts. These use a sealant and a lightweight torque value you'll want to look up.

It's worth it to buy a better-quality water pump (maybe has already been said in this thread), not sure what the current favorite is maybe Aisin or Hepu.

2 thermostat bolts
Part Number: 986228
Supersession(s): 969156

I thought these were known to be a problem?

You have it right; the supersession number is the 6-point version that is not a problem. Going Volvo on that particular hardware is overkill, they are another low torque instance. P80 cam cover bolts work great if you have any lying around ...

[foggydogg]

I would be careful with the idea of power washing the underhood, lots of old electric connections may not take kindly to the invasion.

Good point on the age.

How are you reading temp ? If it's just a low needle on the dash, that could be the sensor, or see 'old...', above.
Those bolts on the thermostat housing can be right stuck, and kind of tender, too. The sensor is right there.

See old what?

Watching the gauge, yes, but also the upper radiator hose never seems to get beyond warm, and neither does the heat. The heat will be warmish, and suddenly drop in temperature which also corresponds with the gauge needle dropping. I've also checked the temperature right at the thermostat housing with an IR gun.... a cheap one, and I'll admit that in this weather (teens F) the car probably wasn't fully warmed up yet, but the most I was seeing was 140F.

Is there a common upgrade on those bolts? I can get 10.9 metric locally easily enough, or I might go Allen head. Whatever goes back in will get anti-seize, and tightened with a torque wrench, providing I have a torque spec.

The 'old electrics' just above .
Nothing special about the thermostat housing bolts; galvanic corrosion may have them almighty stuck, and it can be hard to get a good angle on the one next to the head. Mix in a little debris packed into the hole, and it's a recipe for stripping the heads.
Standard grade bolts will do, no reason for anything exotic, let the gasket do the work.

[scot850]

When we arrived in Canada 20 years ago we were allocated a license plate that was WEE454. Kind of ironic being from Scotland originally!

Neil.

[abscate]

Counterpoint. Hardware isn’t a commodity anymore. There is so much cheap junk out there with pot metal in the mix that you can’t just buy them from hardware stores anymore.

I won’t put anything back on my cars now without Volvo hardware if it sees corrosion or if it’s a steel into Aluminum fastener. That’s sAved me hours of nasty wrenching

On that thermostat job

Volvo says remove 2 liters of coolant to make thermostat removal dry.

Torque on the thermostat housing bolts is 17 Nm. That’s not very tight. The gasket does the work.

[454cid]

I've been looking around online for Volvo resources, and found that Volvo has some documents, which is very nice.

https://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/ ... /model/850

I've decoded the VIN, and apparently my car does not have EGR, which I find surprising. I knew that a few recently made cars do not have EGR valves (I don't recall what automaker, maybe GM), but I had no idea Volvo had done that in the mid 90's. Ive never had real issues with EGR, but it's one less thing to have to mess with. I was a bit disappointed to find I have air pump someplace.... I guess it's electric, looking at Rockauto.

I would like to decode my VIC, but I don't know where to locate it. I've done a forum search, and all the hits contain a "volvocars" link that is no longer active.

So here is the real important one.... I HAVE NO PLACE TO PUT MY COFFEE! I'm super surprised not to have a cup holder.... or is it some super clever design that I'm not seeing? Where do you put your coffee? I drive about an hour to work, and that's my coffee time.

[erikv11]

Look at the VIC decoder at the same link you posted: https://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/ ... om_id/1037. You'll see the VIC gives you nothing useful you don't already have from the VIN and from looking at the vehicle. Those codes for "Trim class"I have never seen referenced anywhere, knowing them gives you nothing other than knowing them. On the other hand the product plate in the engine bay has useful info about paint and interior colors etc.

The last year of the P80 with EGR in the US market was 1995, where anecdotally less than half of the 850s have it. My 95 had it, I got rid of it - definitely one less hassle! The piping can get badly clogged up on these cars.

Air pump is a poorly designed system. A check valve (SAS valve) above the exhaust wears out, sticks open, then the pump fills with water and dies. You can also opt to get rid of it search for "SAS delete."

Center console cup holders no good for you? Get a skinnier cup!