What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[Blacklab467]

I replaced the left control arm with a used control arm, while I wait out for volvo blue box bushings for the left control arm, I will replace them and then install it back. I should do the right side as well, however...they do cost a lot so I cannot to them at the same time.

A Lemforder control arm is $90 at FCP - that can’t be much more than you’re paying for genuine Volvo bushings, and would save you a boatload of time installing/uninstalling, right?

Don't confuse Lemforder parts with Genuine Volvo. Faster, easier and cheaper sounds like a recipe for a poor compromise in quality.

[mtd240]

I replaced the left control arm with a used control arm, while I wait out for volvo blue box bushings for the left control arm, I will replace them and then install it back. I should do the right side as well, however...they do cost a lot so I cannot to them at the same time.

A Lemforder control arm is $90 at FCP - that can’t be much more than you’re paying for genuine Volvo bushings, and would save you a boatload of time installing/uninstalling, right?

Don't confuse Lemforder parts with Genuine Volvo. Faster, easier and cheaper sounds like a recipe for a poor compromise in quality.

No confusion here - but they last at least 70k miles (probably would have gone longer but they were cracking so I went for it; ball joints would have gone much longer). Either way he is doing the labor twice in the next 70k — twice now with OE bushings (old out, used in, used out, old w/ new bushings in) or once now and once again in 70-80k miles (w/ Lemforder).

Sounds like he likes the genuine Volvo bushes more anyway, so my point is moot.

[02V70]

Very happy I didn't damage my engine from a low oil level condition a few weeks ago

These pics were taken 2 days ago, after driving mostly steady 60 mph on highway, Shell mid grade gas 89 octane, light breeze, Walmart 5W-30 high mileage synthetic oil, low load in car, 35psi tire pressure, Sailun Atrezzo tires, disconnected radiator fan.
2004 V70 2.4L, changed in the last year: DENSO 5304 Iridium Power plugs, Denso spark plug boot, rear wheel bearing, new pads and rotors, control arm bushings, Valvoline MaxLife ATF, Lucas Transmission Fix (saved tranny).

PXL_20231229_184427558.jpgPXL_20231229_185311328.jpg

How is your MPG that high? I get like 25 average on the freeway. Is there something possibly wrong with my Volvo? Maybe the AWD makes it worse?

[850 LPT]

I can see that you could achieve this kind of mileage under ideal conditions, and only highway driving.

A few years ago I managed to get 33mpg in an 05' V70 base, 5-speed and skinny tires. This was on my commute with 3/4 highway and 1/4 back roads.
As soon as you add a turbo, AWD and bigger tires your mpg will go down dramatically.

[weitau]

Yes, I agree it has to be under ideal conditions. The best I could get before was 32 MPG going south on I95 in the Carolinas a year earlier. I don't remember, but I probably was using mid-grade 89 octane and kept it at 60mph (not realistic agreed). I don't have a turbo, FWD, and I'm on skinny, stock tires 215/55R-16.

In city driving, my wife gets 19.3 mpg avg, but I can get over 20. A lot has to do with your driving habits such as frequent short trips vs highway, etc. Once I get my thermostat fixed, my city driving should improve.

PXL_20221204_025029874.jpg (232.36 KiB) Viewed 595 times

PXL_20221204_032334420.jpg (227.72 KiB) Viewed 595 times

[02V70]

I finally got my volvo put back together. I replaced the left/driver control arm, ball joint, and axle. The control arm was pretty hard to bend to connect to the ball joint, but I eventually found that keeping the wheels straight instead of all the way to the left like in the 1A auto video allowed me to barely get it in.

When I lowered the car, I heard some concerning creaking, snapping, and popping noises. I couldn't reproduce them by pushing down on the hood and on the test drive it was fine. Is this normal?

[dikidera]

The endlink/droplink usually is very difficult to torque back and it isn't always apparent that there is still some slack from the nut, the reason is that the stabilizer bar pushes on either side if the whole front isn't lifted off the ground. My axle had a rubber bushing which I diligently made sure to put back in and to torque the axle bolt nicely.

My advice is to go back and make sure you torqued everything down and there is nothing loose. These are cars only show if they have a problem in the suspension when they are on the move, otherwise you can't tell by pushing them

If I remember correctly the P2 cars don't need the LCA to be preloaded, it would be nice if people confirmed it one more time for me as I didn't preload mine.

Now back on the topic, it is possible the creaking was caused either by the stabilizer bar bushings or the strut mount or strut spring. The springs usually lay on a rubber piece to reduce noise.
But if isn't the droplinks I think it may be the stabilizer bushings as your control arm is new and thus there was probably more tension on them and they are worn. Just my 2 cents.

[02V70]

Drove back to college today as winter break is sadly over. When I left there was a few inches of snow on the ground, and I assume my awd works because the Volvo handled great.

And boy did changing the axles and the rear suspension make a hell of a difference. It now feels like a new car!

I also took a detour and drove on Highway 9, a winding mountain road that was pretty fun to drive on.

[Krons]

When I lowered the car, I heard some concerning creaking, snapping, and popping noises. I couldn't reproduce them by pushing down on the hood and on the test drive it was fine. Is this normal?

I think noises are normal as all the pieces settle in. If all is torqued and quiet while driving all is good. Good to hear the drive is improved!

[dikidera]

*sigh*

I went in to add some concentrated antifreeze to make the mix a bit more resistant to the upcoming freezing temps. My worst nightmare is here fairly fast since the old repair and that is oil in the coolant.

I am really hoping it is the oil cooler, but as always I am not the most luckiest person and I have a feeling it's the HG again. Not even half a year since the previous repair.

I will do a compression test + HG test to check for exhaust gasses in coolant.