BTW, this "pre_load" is only applied to the bushings not the ball-joint, here I quote the procedure from Volvo:
"...Using NEW bolts and nuts, install control arm to subframe.
Do not tighten bolts and nuts at this time. Using NEW nuts,
install ball joints. Tighten nuts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 N.m), then
tighten an additional 120 degrees. Tighten inside nut first and work
outward. Lower vehicle and bounce a few times. Tighten control arm
nuts in sub-frame to 48 ft. lbs. (65 N.m), then tighten an additional
120 degrees."
Ball joint/control arm survey
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Ball Joint / Control Arm Survey
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confused_al
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- RobTheModd
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Weird.
I was always told you could tighten up the ones on the frame all the way, but to make sure the ball joint gets done like that (load.) before you tighten it down all the way.
I was always told you could tighten up the ones on the frame all the way, but to make sure the ball joint gets done like that (load.) before you tighten it down all the way.
- rspi
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Contact rspi..
I just called a Volvo dealer and they said they can still get the arms with the replaceable ball joint. They wasn't sure if the arm would fit my T-5R wagon. Does anyone know for sure?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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