Volvo XC90 Front Brake Job

[oragex]

I agree with always opening the bleeder (which is easier to say than to do because these bleeders are often times overly tighten) when pushing back the piston to install new (thicker) brake pads.

However there is no need to replace a brake disk just because new brake pads are installed. This is a garage myth because garages want to sell parts and labor. A brake disk is only replaced when it's warped or when the thickness has got near the minimum acceptable. Or if it got deep grooves. New pads will always bed into an old disk surface without losing braking performance.

If the brakes squeal there are two possibilities. Either the brake pads are completely worn and must be replaced immediately or they will damage the brake disk. The other possibility is the brake disk has developed 'shine' surface - in this situation either replace the disk or better switch the front disks (put the right one at the left wheel and the left one at the right wheel).

[gstallons]

I am sure you have installed more rotors / brake drums than I have . I have been doing this for 40+ yrs.
You want an optimum mating surface for pad / rotor contact . That is why you resurface brake rotors . A new pad is going to contact an old rotor surface at best 50% until the contact surfaces end up mating each other.
Your opinion of garages and garage myth is strictly an opinion .

[cn90]

Both oragex and gstallons are right.
I have done both.

1. Re-use the rotor: I check to be sure no deep grooves (think old-school LP Vinyl records with grooves).
Then install new pads, soon or later the new pads mate with the old rotor, not perfect, but they learn how to live with each other.

2. However, the best scenario is to remove the rotor and have it resurfaced at local auto parts store for $10. But this requires a 2nd car and a trip and added time. This ensures a smooth surface for the new pads.

Either way, it is fine, as long as there is no vibration during braking you are fine.

[cn90]

Car is 2005 XC90 2.5T with 105K miles.
Front rotor is original and is down to minimum spec, which is 27 mm.

- New Zimmermann Rotors, 336 mm type, $80/each (rmeuropean dot com).
- New Brake Pads by Akebono EUR1003 $64 on amazon dot com.

TRICKS:

1. I have each side I am working on 2 jack stands (one standard 4-leg jack stand and one screw-type jack stand) for safety. The XC90 is heavy.

2. Turn the Steering Wheel to the RIGHT if you work on the RF caliper. It makes undoing the 18-mm bolt much easier.
Do NOT use 12-point wrench, you can strip the bolt head simply b/c the bolt was very tight from factory! I used impact 18-mm socket + breaker bar + iron pipe + PB Blaster.

3. No need to undo the 7-mm sliding pins if you replace the rotors + pads together.

4. Check the reservoir and suck some fluid out if necessary as you compress the pistons. Some people pinch the brake hose, open bleeder and expel brake fluid out that way. It is your choice.

5. I use antiseize on all bolts, even the 10-mm bolt holding the rotor.

6. I also used anti-squeal compound.

If you follow these precautions, the job is easy.

[cuhfs]

cn90
Thanks for the post!

[1997volvo850]

This is my first time working on our 2014 XC90 brakes. I've been reading as much as possible about the front brake job. Everything makes sense except that my front brakes don't look the same as in the older XC90 brake write-ups. The spring is significantly different. I've read differ post on removing the retaining spring, some say pry at the end others say pry in the middle, and another says be careful not to damage the spring. I'm used to my 850 retaining spring that pops right off. On my XC90 it feels like my screwdriver will break before the spring comes off. Others claim the retaining spring comes off easy.

I want the easy method. Do I pry on one end, in the middle, or some combination? Do I pry from the hub side or from outside the wheel?

If it take so much effort to get off I'm wondering how I will ever get it back on.

Of course once I hear from you experts it will be a breeze...my new rotors and brakes are calling me...

[1997volvo850]

I should also note that my standard Craftsman 7mm hex socket does not appear deep enough to reach the caliper hex bolt slide pins on our 2014 XC90. I didn't see this mentioned in the write-ups I read for older models of the XC90. i'm wondering where this inset hex socket can be found locally. I see it online at ipd and amazon but would rather have it 'now'. Any recommendations are appreciated.

[cn90]

...others say pry in the middle, and another says be careful not to damage the spring...

I don't know about your 2014 XC90 model, but in the 2005 XC90, PRY in the MIDDLE as shown.
Look at the new brake pad (the OUTER pad), and you will have a good idea where to pry it.

[cn90]

I should also note that my standard Craftsman 7mm hex socket does not appear deep enough to reach the caliper hex bolt slide pins on our 2014 XC90. I didn't see this mentioned in the write-ups I read for older models of the XC90. i'm wondering where this inset hex socket can be found locally. I see it online at ipd and amazon but would rather have it 'now'. Any recommendations are appreciated.

Get the Lisle 7mm socket at local autoparts store.
Or use the 7-mm L-shaped key.

[1997volvo850]

Here's a photo of my caliper. After I return from the auto parts store with my Lisle 7mm I'll try to pry this baby off.

Displays with correct orientation when I enlarge. I'm not sure how to correct orientation in forum post.