V 70 Brakes - ABS System

[manovlov]

Hy Neil,

I stopped this evening to a commercial licensed station to buy some oil for my car. As it was still possible, I opened the bonnet and had a look to the brake booster. Without thinking about it , I've disconnected the switch from this part and cleaned up with a piece of towel I had. I had some troubles with the car this afternoon, but, after leaving the parking, no other issue till I got home. Could it be so simple ?

May be.

About the abs module, I don't know if the work has a lifetime warranty by the Swedish repairer. I will ask him, and see in the next times.

Didn't tested my connections for the moment, too much things on the same time. But I will do it this weekend.

Thank to "walk" by my side on this topic, Neil .

Didier.

[Matty Moo]

I have major doubts that anything is wrong with the module, I say that because I deal with the same scenario on a weekly basis. That's the only reason I pull codes out of modules sent in for repair, as long as it wasn't let go to the point of the speedo dropping out you can usually find something out with the codes.

But... If it's something going on that never triggers the abs light there won't be a code. Whatever is causing the abs to engage is within the parameters of what the abs module sees as normal operation. At that point your only solution is to get a scanner that can actually read each wheel speed sensor in real time, drive and watch to see which sensor isn't within the range of the other three sensors.

Now... A few years ago we didn't see too many issues in the system outside of the module. Now it's common, figure a 1998 is now 20 years old and just about every part of that system moves when the car moves. Tone rings are bare steel and exposed to the elements and the wires that go to the sensors move if the car is moving. They fray internally from moving but a visual won't show it and checking resistance with a meter usually doesn't either since the car isn't moving.

With the way these fail and why they fail even the worst repair job will hold up for a long time. You could just reflow the joints without actually resoldering and easily get at least a year out of it. Any real fault is going to show itself right away/constantly and give a light to let you know.

[manovlov]

Hy Matty Moo,

Your point of view is very interesting and put on front the "age " of my car. Is it a good method, to change every parts that compose the ABS module ? I had no big repairs for the 4 last years excepted the normals ones (oil, filters...). Now the car will soon reach 300 000 kilometers - 186 000 miles - and issues come ones after the others. I will soon reach 2500 $ of parts, when a V 70 III generation costs 8000 $... The next year, the timing belts will have 5 years and I should replace them (another 2 000 $ bock).

I'm not a collector, because some of the choices I've made oblige me to act (children - flat - act...). I have to control the abs rear wheels sensors also. The last two parts I will have to change at the end will be the master cylinder and the brake booster. Should I repair my car or change for anther one ?

It's the question of the moment...

ManoVloV

[scot850]

Timing belt should not be that much. I had the dealer do the timing belt and water pump on our XC70 and all in including parts was less than $1000 for Volvo parts included.

Everytime I look at newer cars I think about how much I would be losing in depreciation for the limited mileage I do, it makes no sense to buy a new or newish car to me. Maybe it might be my Scots roots, but I look if I am spending half of a depreciation a year then buying a newer car makes no sense. Add to that the careless owners that live around here that constantly ding and dent my cars due to an inability to do basic driving, and it would drive me demented owning a new(er) car. I would like to do basic maintenance only but with a 15-20 year old car stuff sill go wrong. Matty makes a good point that if a Volvo dealer cannot pull any codes to tell you where to start looking you have no options other than sell the car or replace items one at a time to get there. Naturally if you can get cheap used parts for the bigger items then that would be great, but you also don't know what you have is any better. I suggested several items to check, and Matty has pointed out from his experience some parts may not show up the issues unless in motion. For that I would suggest only the ABS sensors fall into this category.

Neil.

[Matty Moo]

I wouldn't just start replacing everything. I surely wouldn't touch the booster or master cylinder because I doubt those are playing any role in this.

[wizechatmgr]

Double check the axle nuts if you haven't already...

On my '99 it was almost hand tight. As soon as it was torqued to spec I no longer had intermittent (unwanted/un-needed) engagement of the ABS & traction control. When I was monitoring it in VIDA everything looked fine with exception of one side showing a hotter caliper than the other.

[manovlov]

Hy There,
Neil, you're absolutely right, as Matty. I don't want to make the race to a new car, for a lot of reasons. The most important of these is that I'm not a "big" driver. And, of course, when issues arrive, one after the other, I have the impression that the car is near to collapse on the road. But, as I said before, for severals years, I didn't have any trouble for the four last years, so, if it means change parts to get new "four years free issue", I will do what needs to be done. Each time I replace a part, I try to buy genuine one, and if it's not possible, I take advice on which one would be the better. So, at the end, I realize that it is a small effort to do to put some order in my volvo to compare with to buy a second hand one. I'm not a unrestrained consumer, and I like my V 70, however the way she looks.

I will do what I have to. I will control the abs sensors on the rear wheels also, thing I didn't done yet. Does someone has some diagram or information on these parts ?

I found this : viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84246&hilit=rear+sensor
Thanks for yours points of you to you all.

Manov

[abscate]

Double check the axle nuts if you haven't already...

On my '99 it was almost hand tight. As soon as it was torqued to spec I no longer had intermittent (unwanted/un-needed) engagement of the ABS & traction control. When I was monitoring it in VIDA everything looked fine with exception of one side showing a hotter caliper than the other.

That was amazing. Problem solved with 1/8 of a rotation of the wheel bolt (M8 on the 1999- models)

It was still $115 plus shop,supplies

[abscate]

Manov...that's my thread on the rear ABS sensors for my 1999 which is slightly different than your car.

On your1998 you have two separate sensors and it is much easier to do this job. It's basically the same, one bolt holds the sensor in,trace wire , find plug . Make sure you don't let the wire either strain or rub on things as it will break under use.

[manovlov]

Hy Abscate,

I thank you for the advice. Sincerly.
As a newbie, I "learn" how to when the issue arrives. I wouldn't be able to tell if a 1999 volvo would or not be the same way to repair as a 1998. But, it is a proof of respect to show to those that are active on this topic that I don't stand the hands in pockets facing an issue. I've learned a lot. The only issue I have now is a money one...

Manov