P80 Driver seat leather and seat bottom replacement ( re titled) Topic is solved

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Notice my sealed new Volvo seatcover for the back came wrong side out, but the bottom seatcover came right side out. It must come that way for a reason.

From June - yes, the seat back has to be started inside out and then pulled over the seat like a snake skin.

From bmw..I ended up with two extra holes, since I replaced the power seat skin with a manual seat skin.

The Seat tilt is on the right side, where it isnt too visible, and the lumbar hole is covered and will have to be cut. The old lumbar hole is too low and is on the outboard side, but it hides behind the B pillar for now.

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Finally finished this one today while changing oil - about 3 minute job

Find the lumbar knob by feel

Small slice...June can lend you a Phillips screwdriver to punch a hole in that if you like

Stretch Naug over lumbar knob shaft

Outer collar

Thread on knob

Watch out for Carpenter bees.

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IVe go to some left over charcoal grey leather material if anyone needs patch material.

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Bumped forDirk

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Well, I have to say practice may not perfect but it certainly hastens the path

Second time around on a de-skin

Both passenger and driver seats on the 1998 in 3960 oak deskinned in 35 minutes

It was much faster remembering exactly where all the fasteners are and the technique - and a good set of dikes from Channel-LOck (tm) - proudly made in Erie PA

[bmdubya1198]

Actually it's CHANnelLOCK ®.

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CHANnelLOCK

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8 years later , I’ve split a seam on the uptight plus I have Long Jane Silver leather to do.

Sourcing leather from yards is getting hard and life is getting short.

I’ll be exploring both Elwood and Lseat options

[scot850]

The downside is that they tend to fail more on the door! All those door opening/closings make the wire brittle and more wires + more breaks.

So, I am 50/50 on the door versus center console siting.

Could be worse, on our 03 Toyota 4Runner they are hidden under the door pull handle, which when you are tall makes them hard to see and they are even more difficult to find at night.

As to turbo v's NA, for a daily runner and running around the city, I am perfectly happy with the less complex NA. For highway driving or 'fun' then the turbo.

These days, I look at overall condition over what model it is. Only cars I tend to avoid are 850 10V as they are fairly gutless according to my ex-Volvo mechanic friend, the 10V motor is not as reliable as the 20V NA. Having said that, one young guy I used to help had a 10V, family owned from new, with well over 250k miles.

Neil.