2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[MoVolvos]

-
Did you purchase the Impact from HB? I would not recommend it as it only has a 90 day warranty.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85a-12-in ... 64120.html
-
HD had a sale on this set for $199 during the New Year. I've been sitting on it as I have not had time to use it so can't say one whether it's any good. I think it has a 3 year warranty.

As for that nut use PB then a chisel at an angle on one edge of the nut backwards and then forward before using a breaker bar. Then again you could always try the HB Impact to see if it will take it off but if you don't like the quality return it regardless if it removed the nut.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-2663 ... 4476915513

[- Pete -]

One thing I’d also suggest is to use as few extensions as possible when you go to knock the crank nut loose. They do rob some of your power/torque.

I just changed a P2 harmonic balancer this evening & tried my 1/2” compact air impact (cranked all the way up) on the crank nut & it didn’t budge. Figured I’d give it another shot - nothin. 3/4” bubba had it loose in 3-hits.

Boy have I got an oil leak photo for you! Yours looks like a runny nose next to a deluge.

I’d definitely give the HF impact a shot.

[xHeart]

I was looking through my timing belt notes from 2012. Timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and all associated components were replaced during the DIY servicing event. It has close to 8yr/70,000 miles, and reaching Volvo recommended range for timing belt service.

Although, I had replaced the rear exhaust camshaft sealing ring during the PCV and oil pan service a year ago, I'll order the sealing ring pn 9943310, and have it at hand. Also, adding VVT cam solenoid gasket pn 30731212 to-dos.



I agree, it is best to service oil pump with the service kit during this 200,000 miles challenge. The success of this DIY is tools and taking time to do it right.

VIDA says, sealing ring for intake without VVT cam is pn 9440651.

Is it better to just replace the engine crankcase pulley with new to eliminate any what if?

[xHeart]

Do you have an air compressor?

If it was me, I’d definitely sit on that nut for a while with your electric impact. Just so you know if you have the ability right at home to do it, for future reference. Sometimes it takes quite a few hits, but the little impacts can surprise you.

I suppose you could have a nearby shop knock it loose with a large impact, then have them set it back on there with just a couple soft pulls of the trigger. Then your electric one should be able to blast it off.

This air compressor may pass neighborhood rules but will it meet the need of a 3/4" air impact wrench?

[- Pete -]

Water pumps on these are robust - proven good to around 200k so you should be good there. I changed one on one of our cars at 262k & it had zero bearing play as well as no weep.

Oil pump service - last one I did I came to the realization, after I’d finished, that getting the seal over the stepped crank nose would probably have been easier with the oil pump already installed. I cut down the neck of a plastic funnel & used that to allow the seal to climb up over the step on the crank nose.

The harmonic balancer I changed wobbled pretty good. My timing belt & serpentine belt are new, I changed the harmonic balancer preemptively so I didn’t have to worry about the wobble potentially ruining my serpentine belt. Allegedly if your serpentine belt shreds it can get sucked into the crank pulley (timing belt crank pulley) and that’s bad juju. I doubt yours is bad, I could see mine wobble with the engine running. It had been like that for many tens of thousands of miles. Only real other symptom was at idle I could hear a little “rub rub rub” noise from it contacting the timing belt cover.

It’s hard to say on the little air nailer compressor. I’ve never tried one but have read success stories about people using big impacts with tiny compressors to loosen crank nuts. Obviously you have very little CFM so you’d get about one blast of the trigger & it would need to refresh. But that one blast may be enough. Like Ben said, I’d try the big electric HF impact paired with some penetrating lube.

If you end up doing an air setup one way you can “cheat” to get a higher rate of flow is to use couplers like this.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 63545.html


By the way, the massive oil leak that I’ll be doing in the next couple days is our 01 XC 2.4T so our notes should compare pretty well.

[abscate]

Your going to need about 7 SCFM at 90 psi for a 3/4 inch gun to hit torque

[xHeart]

Did you purchase the Impact from HB? I would not recommend it as it only has a 90 day warranty.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85a-12-in ... 64120.html

As for that nut use PB then a chisel at an angle on one edge of the nut backwards and then forward before using a breaker bar. Then again you could always try the HB Impact to see if it will take it off but if you don't like the quality return it regardless if it removed the nut.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-2663 ... 4476915513

I am leaning toward the electric impact. There is a sale at the local HFT this weekend. FORTRESS goes up to 5-SCFM

The hub should arrive today.

[vtl]

This air compressor may pass neighborhood rules but will it meet the need of a 3/4" air impact wrench?

Get STEALTH air compressor. I have one with 20 gal receiver, can talk normally to my wife while standing next to it.

[xHeart]

INA makes this exhaust pulley.

MVS_V70XC_0814.jpg (87.58 KiB) Viewed 729 times

[- Pete -]

Yes they are. Did you get it through FCP?

I meant to write this a while ago. Don't be like me & forget to acquire the rear intake camshaft plug! You will not be able to finish the job without it. Also the rear intake cam does not need to have a seal + the plug. Just use the plug.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 90-1397381

- OR-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... ng-1397381

Really, all you will need to replace is the rear exhaust seal, rear intake plug, front intake & exhaust seals, then your crank seal/o-ring/gasket. Make sure to use some sealant on your oil pump bolts (under heads & threads nearest heads).


I finished my 01 2.4T a few days ago & thought I'd list the cam seals I used. I skipped the oil pump reseal seeing as this entire job was done on mine 20k ago, and the crank seal/oil pump were dry as a nuns bush.

Here's your VVT front exhaust cam seal

Here's the front intake (non-VVT) cam seal

Here's the rear exhaust cam seal

Here's your rear intake cam plug Volvo and Aftermarket


Did you get a cam locking tool? If not, mine is free for the taking now that I'm done with my task.