Issue with 96 850R Starting Not Turning Over Topic is solved

[wackenhut]

I did a check on the thermostat based on the following and it came back as working per the instructions:

https://carcarecamp.com/how-tos/test-a- ... -removing/

Any other suggestions?

[Chuck W]

ECT sensor = engine coolant temperature sensor.

It's the sensor threaded into the lower portion of the thermostat housing. A little bit of a bugger to get to to replace. Even a corroded connector can cause hard-start issues, but will not cause a no-crank condition.

[wackenhut]

Yeah, it is not a hard-start issue...just a no-crank condition.

Thank you!

[Jaydiesel]

oops yeah meant ECT. Anyways it probably be a atleast 2 weeks when i could have you drive up here to check out the car. But i really think you should look in replacing the positive cable going to the starter off the battery.Even if you have to take a visit to the junk yard to grab one and practice on the junk yard car first.

[Jaydiesel]

Also FCPEURO has battery power cords too for your model. One is OEM and another is LIKE OEM but less money. also they have a lifetime warranty on what they sell. I believe the Volvo part number your looking for is 9456836.

[wackenhut]

Thank you. Of course as soon as I am able to figure out the resolution to this issue I will inform everyone. Crazy.

[erikv11]

I know this is a distraction so apologies to OP but for the record: Actually you can't replace the cable from the positive battery terminal to the start by getting a junkyard item. That cable is integrated into the engine harness.

Similarly there is no factory replacement. If you buy Volvo 9456836 from a Volvo dealer or FCP etc branded as aftermarket you get the exact same part - a cheap, poorly made cable that you install in parallel to the factory harness cable, which can't be removed unless you cut it out (bad idea). The cheapo cable will get your car going for sure but it's not a very good long term solution. You're much better off making a heavy gauge cable yourself, you can search MVS for many posts about how to do that.

To help determine if the positive battery cable is a problem, check and see if the cable ens at the post heats up under usage. This is where/why they go bad, the connection to the lug corrodes away on the inside of the lug. Poor connection means higher resistance means it heats up, which makes the connection even poorer (higher resistance, less current). Then when the cable end cools off it conducts enough current again to get the car started.

[wackenhut]

I appreciate it. I did all those tests and nothing comes up out of the ordinary. I am going to take the car to another shop. The last thing the indy mentioned was replacing the whole wiring harness but that would be very labor intensive. I am done spending unnecessary money.

[FLXC90]

First OP said shop replaced PNP switch and called car good. In a later post, OP stated that the shop had replaced the connectors at the starter terminals. Sounds like they found corroded cabling. Sounds like jreed parallel is called for.

Also, Misha asked "When no crank issue appears...try to start it in "N" position.
If it starts...it's PNP switch...if not....it could be ignition switch or starter solenoid." OP response was "yes, automatic."

OP, Misha's intent was to have you try starting with shifter in N as opposed to P for troubleshooting.
OP, this is all meant with respect not chastisement.

[wackenhut]

Someone asked if it was an automatic and I said it was. Regarding the question by Misha, I did everything that was mentioned. I understand the intent. The shop replaced the PNP switch which was not the problem. I did not go back and edit my initial post, I apologize. It worked for a couple weeks and then did the same thing. So the original post should say the PNP switch was not the fix. It was not my diagnosis. As far as the connectors, not sure why they decided to replaced the terminals, but they did not mention any corroding.