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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?

Post by abscate »

Maybe a rubber band in that groove ? If I have to go under with a tool, I may as well just take a wrench and use the plug.

I would also put a vacuum cap over the end of the drain, or maybe some oil hose that is routed up and higher than the sump oil level.
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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Sveedy
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Post by Sveedy »

Twist tie ?
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT

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ZionXIX
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Post by ZionXIX »

Maybe a cotter pin?
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Nice big spring clip from HF or Tractor supply will do that nicely. One thing I like about a hose attached and fed up above the sump level for stowage is it’s fail safe.

Oetiker clamps on the hose , of course
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amblerman
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Post by amblerman »

abscate wrote: 01 Mar 2021, 17:20 Maybe a rubber band in that groove ? If I have to go under with a tool, I may as well just take a wrench and use the plug.

I would also put a vacuum cap over the end of the drain, or maybe some oil hose that is routed up and higher than the sump oil level.
The wire cutters take 1 second to use to remove the zip tie and the whole point of using these types of drain plugs is to avoid removing the drain plug each time and reducing the mess of changing your oil. Plus it finally gave me a purpose of that giant bag of tiny zip ties I had. :)

From my years of using a wire cutters to cut a zip tie, and a fumoto drain plug, I can definitely say it is less messy and takes less time to start draining the oil than using a regular plug. In the last sentence I said "start draining the oil." A Fumoto valve is slower to actually drain the oil but you probably save time overall with less clean up time.

The only reason I moved away form them was to do an experiment with strong magnetic drain plugs. That experiment has yielded nothing amazing and I will probably return to a fumoto style in the future.

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Post by xanthefin »

Trunk was shut because the lock in that door/lid screws had become super loose and while being shaky it had enabled child lock too so i couldn't open it inside handle too.

Had to remove plastic trim at trunk and unscrew the hook at the bottom and push the trunk open. The stick which pushes (i thought first when i tried open it -- it will pull the stick so i did pull it completely out like an idiot) door open from outside handle was loose too so i reattached it.


Now back lights and trunk opens too. Working again. Happy.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

amblerman wrote: 02 Mar 2021, 06:18
abscate wrote: 01 Mar 2021, 17:20 Maybe a rubber band in that groove ? If I have to go under with a tool, I may as well just take a wrench and use the plug.

I would also put a vacuum cap over the end of the drain, or maybe some oil hose that is routed up and higher than the sump oil level.
The wire cutters take 1 second to use to remove the zip tie and the whole point of using these types of drain plugs is to avoid removing the drain plug each time and reducing the mess of changing your oil. Plus it finally gave me a purpose of that giant bag of tiny zip ties I had. :)

From my years of using a wire cutters to cut a zip tie, and a fumoto drain plug, I can definitely say it is less messy and takes less time to start draining the oil than using a regular plug. In the last sentence I said "start draining the oil." A Fumoto valve is slower to actually drain the oil but you probably save time overall with less clean up time.

The only reason I moved away form them was to do an experiment with strong magnetic drain plugs. That experiment has yielded nothing amazing and I will probably return to a fumoto style in the future.
I wonder if my driveway slopes enough that I could run it into the New Beetle? Kind of like the transfusion in that dystopian movie with Charlize Theron...
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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Post by ZionXIX »

kallekula wrote: 27 Feb 2021, 14:39 I replaced my oil drain plug with a tap. Hoping for less messy oil changes in the future 👍
Which size fumoto valve did you buy?
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle

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kallekula
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Post by kallekula »

ZionXIX wrote: 03 Mar 2021, 07:45
kallekula wrote: 27 Feb 2021, 14:39 I replaced my oil drain plug with a tap. Hoping for less messy oil changes in the future 👍
Which size fumoto valve did you buy?
F104N if I remember right. I also needed the adapter ADP-104 (?) for the tap to clear the sump.
You can look at their website and input what car you have and it'll tell you what parts fit. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/car ... -4l-5-cyl-

BMW 540i 2002
S70 Base 2000

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Reinstalled steering rack into the T5
Empty Nester
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