P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

[jblackburn]

That's mainly what I was referring to is a catch can sort of deal. Someone did a post on this here.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 6&p=112668

On a turbo model, I think it would be possible to increase the venting of the system through the attachment of another vacuum hose to the PTC. If there IS a vacuum hose in the PCV system on a NA model (I don't know if there is or not), you could try that out as well - you seem to be one who likes to experiment with things and find a way to make them work. In a turbo, that hose attaches to the passenger side of the intake manifold; a splitter could be added at the other end of that and another hose attached to the vacuum tree.

If there is not a lot of smoke or pressure (can it fill up a balloon placed over the dipstick tube?) just drive it & don't worry about it for now.

[obayha]

Well I am back looking for more answers.... I did a very succesful PCV replacement as recorded on here in April. Now the top is getting full of oil again, and likes to run down onto the exhaust manifold in a tight right hand turn. Nice grey/black smoke out the back. After reading this article again, it seems like the PCV can't keep up with an old engine. I don't like the idea of valve stem replacement, but that sounds like the next thing to try. What and where is the PTC? Does it need cleaning?
This is a love hate relationship, and right now it ain't love. Any help or other ideas would be great.
Thanks.

[jblackburn]

If you have a turbo model and did not clean the PTC at the intake pipe to the turbocharger, I guarantee you it is clogged solid and therefore the system is not functioning at all. Look at the end of the write-up and there are a few pictures of it there.

[obayha]

Thanks,
Should of read the post better. I did clean the PTC unit. I have other issues to look into and they might be part of the problem.
Need to look up codes numbers.
Will report back with any earth shattering finds.
Thanks again.

[ekimak]

I just completed an entire PCV replacement from IPD. Now at start up I am getting error codes of 1505 and 1507 indicating the idle control valve. Is this an indication that my hose connections are incorrect or that the idle control valve needs cleaning or replacement.

[jblackburn]

Make sure that you plugged the electrical connection back in; other than that, I would remove the valve and clean it with some carb cleaner and reinstall it to see if it works again. Sometimes the flaps inside can get dirty & quit working.

[dkoltz1]

I recently replaced my PCV system with the help of jablackburn's post (thank you so much for the great post!). Unfortunately, I managed to clamp the hose clip between the block and intake manifold, resulting in a leak that caused all kinds of problems (sputtering, erratic idle, etc.). After trying to self-diagnose the problem myself, I was resigned to taking it to a shop ( who ultimately found the root of the problem). However, after getting the car back from repair, the idle is still a bit irregular and the car almost dies out when I give it gas from a stopped position.

Prior to the PCV system replacement, I noticed that I'd lost my turbo boost. To this day, it's still not kicking in when I stomp it down. I've checked hoses and the wastegate valve is not stuck in the open position. I should tell you that I replaced the stock TCV with the IPD unit. Turbo was working fine for some time after installation - so, I'm not sure whether or not that factors into this. I also replaced the stock exhaust with the IPD turbo-back exhaust. How critical is the seal on the secondary exhaust air port? I noticed that the threaded insert is not exactly as tight as it should be...

I'd appreciate any input you can offer - thanks!

[dkoltz1]

Problem solved! The line on the bottom of the idle control valve was knocked off by the shop where I had work performed earlier this week. Reattached - idle problem eliminated and turbo boost has returned to normal. However, CE light came on during the last outing... to be determined.

[niles]

Accessibility is much better if you remove the fan shroud. See starter replacement elsewhere on this repair site. It's not difficult and you have much better access to manifod bolts, flame trap, etc. Definitely take the time to remove PTC valve and clean, removing the turbo plastic pipe at the same time so you can re-install the PTC valve and electrical connector.

[GoinFor300KMi]

Thanks Justin for a great job of documentation and thanks to the other contributors to this long thread. I’ll weigh in with a few comments on my experiences with the PCV system on my Volvo. I have ’96 850 GLT so no turbo.

I had oil under spark plug cover and my oil change guy called me into the garage recently to look at at oil in the area of the RMS. It wasn’t too bad as I had only minor spotting on my garage floor, but my oil level was quite low and combined with seeing soaked engine and tranny bottoms, I went home pretty unhappy. Thanks to MVS I was able to research my problem quickly and determined that I probably had a blocked PCV. The car has 257,000 miles, I bought it at 175,000.

I lined up all the tools including following Obayha’s recommendation - I bought a 12mm swivel box wrench, found a nice shiny one on sale at Sears. With this I didn’t have to go underneath. I found the two 12mm bolts by feeling around and was able to use the swivel box with an extension (a piece of pipe that fits over the handle that you slide out as far as you can to get extra leverage - everybody does this, right? How come I never read about it?). The 12mm bolts took me about 5 minutes to get off. Unless you have forearms like Popeye you shouldn't have to remove the fan shroud.

The PCV system was probably original – the tubes disintegrated in my hands as I removed them and the flame trap was clogged solid.

I used the kit from FCP – it was real nice but for one thing- the tube that comes over from the oil trap and locks into the intake elbow (the so-called flame trap (I left out the little blockage generator)) was put together upside down / backwards – I can’t complain about FCP – this was a Volvo-stickered part, I guess somebody in the fab shop had too many Aquavits the night before he built this assembly. I suggest you look at this part carefully with ANY kit – because it was fully assembled with the nice Oetiker clamps I figured it was ready to go. After I put the intake manifold on I found out that the bayonet connector wouldn’t plug in. Doing some geometry in my head I figured out that I had to reverse the pipe at the elbow connector end on the oil trap AND reverse the bayonet connector at the intake elbow – that’s right, I had to remove the intake manifold again. Oh well, practice makes perfect – 20 minutes off and back on. I have no complaint with FCP – they were concerned when I told them about the problem and have treated me well.

I didn’t like the vacuum tube integrated into the pipe – I’d recommend that you buy a set of vacuum elbows and connectors and several feet of the small vacuum tubing and string up your own fresh vacuum hose setup off the manifold and bayonet connector. I replaced the caps on the extra vacuum tree nipples – I think mine were original and they were loose, I don’t know way I wasn’t getting vacuum codes.

In final assembly I left out one thing – the throttle position sensor is down underneath the throttle body and I forgot to connect the plug back on to it so I got an accelerating engine and that silly up arrow light on the instrument cluster along with P0120 and P0123 codes. Once I took care of that my 850 purrs just fine, runs great and in 500 miles I have only a tiny bit of oil loss and the bottom looks dry. Thanks so much for all the information that is posted to MVS!