throwing in the towel perhaps

warcraftjunkie · Post by **warcraftjunkie** » 18 Feb 2013, 17:19

Yeah, i've checked the B+ cable from battery to fuse box, it's good. The alternator, to starter, to battery also appears to be good. I'm not 100% certain I've got this beat, because it's always seemed to be an electrical issue, however reseating all the sparkplugs could have been good enough. I'll be holding my breath for a few weeks.

warcraftjunkie · Post by **warcraftjunkie** » 13 Mar 2013, 11:42

Well, I think I can call this solved. I'm sure it wasn't just one thing that fixed it, but the last thing I did was pull the plugs, clean them up and reseat the coil packs.

Is it possible for the mods to change the subject on the original post to solved? I tried to do that, but I couldn't edit it.

Thanks for all the help along the way. This is the greatest community!

Post by **northernlights** » 13 Mar 2013, 14:51

warcraftjunkie wrote:Well, just got off the phone with the service dept. He's doing the write up now. Looks like they want 1300 for a ECU rebuild/reload, 750ish for ETM,and 450ish for MAF.

I couldn't help but quote your dealership experience from Fall 2012 after your last post.

It's awesome that your appear to have solved it. It makes me fear the electronic throttle a little less, and wonder how many cars get scrapped due to flaky electrical connections.

Post by **rickybobby** » 29 Mar 2014, 15:34

Ya electrical is a pin for sure, had ETS lights (threw a low voltage code), car died while driving, changed the battery first then figured out that the alternator was dead ... $40 for a new alternator and it was back on the road, now I get P0236 and I'm not sure if I want to switch both MAP and MAF sensors... might try to find a junkyard with those and see if it helps