DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix! Topic is solved

Post by **cn90** » 25 Nov 2018, 18:49

- Just did another preventive maintenance on my 2004 V70 with 105K.

- After bottom plate was removed
1. The small little piece fell off.
2. The "Relocker Pin" and spring/cap fell off.

- Then I could not go from Position II to Position III (starter motor). It turns out, there is another flat piece that got jammed in the tumbler. You can see that piece at timing marking 7:10 in the video above. I removed that piece and all is well now.

- So, if you did the mod and still has issue going from 0-I or I-II or II-III etc., look underneath while wiggling the key, you will see this broken flat piece, see photo below for detail...

: Volvo-Tumbler.jpg (119.84 KiB) Viewed 1341 times

UHBlackhawk · Post by **UHBlackhawk** » 12 Jan 2019, 10:24

Ok. I got the plate off. The steering wheel now moves. If I pull off the ignition I can start the car using a screw driver, but the key still won't go out of the 0 position, so I can't get out of Park. Any ideas?

Edit. After much wiggling, swearing, praying and speaking in tongues I was able to get the key to the III position, but if I turn it to "0" it still sticks at times. I then have to go through the same song and dance to get it to the III position. Right now I just leave the keys in the ignition in III and use a screwdriver to start the car.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jan 2019, 13:03

DaveP189 wrote: ↑17 Nov 2016, 10:34 My V70XC is right now sitting in the driveway with the key stuck in the ignition. No problems turning it, except it seems it just needs another couple millimeters to turn fully off.
Just got home from a 30 mile trip, I had a hard time getting it to start when I left to come home. It seemed like it wanted to, turned over fine, but if it did "catch" it would barely idle at about 400-500 rpms, then quit - thought it was flooded, to be honest - took me about 10 minutes to get it to fire. Then all at once it started just fine. (???)
Zero issues with this in the 2-1/2 years I've owned it (currently at 148k miles), but have had a couple times recently were the shifter didn't want to come out of park.

Just double checking before I try this... or looking for ideas. This the family "truckster", so need to get it reliable for my Sweetie relatively quickly.
Thanks in advance.

Evita, my new to me S70 is giving me this problem. The release of the key at POS 0 isnt quite right, so I need to understand the options in case it gets stuck. I did put some Teflon lube into it which made it better.

Post by **chrism** » 17 Jan 2019, 08:24

UHBlackhawk wrote: ↑12 Jan 2019, 10:24 After much wiggling, swearing, praying and speaking in tongues I was able to get the key to the III position, but if I turn it to "0" it still sticks at times. I then have to go through the same song and dance to get it to the III position. Right now I just leave the keys in the ignition in III and use a screwdriver to start the car.

Folks, if you remove the lower plate and clean out that area, yet the key still gets hung up and won't turn then you need to remove the entire lock assembly from the car and take it to the work bench for surgery into the tumbler/cylinder. Refer to my response back on March 7?, read it in its entirety, and watch the linked video. Those eight little "blades" inside the tumbler are made of brass and they DO get worn over the years such that when you insert the key they don't completely release from the channel in the cylinder.

Good luck.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jan 2019, 16:03

I’m still searching for my symptom

Perfect key operation except key removal. Gear shifter motion does not help.

baxtex · Post by **baxtex** » 14 Sep 2019, 08:37

Funny story.

About two years ago I seeked help in this thread regarding the lock. I never ended up replacing it, instead I opened the "lock box" with a dremel like this thread suggested. The Wheel lock was disabled, but it solved my "key spinning 360 degrees" issue. In Sweden we have these annual inspections on cars where your car has to meet safety and environment standards otherwise the vehicle is prohibited to be driven on public roads. It failed this year because my car didn't have a SW lock (Yes, it's ridiculous). If I don't fix it and go to a new inspection within 30 days, I will not be able to drive it until it is fixed. Now I'm thinking of going to the scrapyard, seeing if I can find a new lock and install it. But this thread got me thinking, is it possible to insert something back into the box to get the SW locking functionality back? Its only needed during the test then I could just remove it again. I don't care if someone steals my 300 Dollar car.

bobrubel · Post by **bobrubel** » 23 Mar 2021, 18:00

My problem is the ignition key won't go from run to shut off. I have to struggle with the steering wheel position and will fially get a spot where, with a good deal of effort on the key, I can get it to shut off. Anyone have a solution for that?

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Mar 2021, 21:33

bobrubel wrote: ↑23 Mar 2021, 18:00 My problem is the ignition key won't go from run to shut off. I have to struggle with the steering wheel position and will fially get a spot where, with a good deal of effort on the key, I can get it to shut off. Anyone have a solution for that?

I'd absolutely start wit the same fix - remove the bottom plate with a Dremel.

The general problem is the key jamming up, and it can jam up in a variety of ways depending on which piece is broken off and stuck where.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Jun 2022, 20:53

- Over the years, I always wonder what exactly caused this problem...

- After watching the video link below, this is what I understand...when you turn the key from
0 ---> I ---> II ---> III (start engine), what happens is that as the key is turned, the "guillotine"
(for lack of better word) is slowly brought downward, and since the guillotine is connected to the
rectangular piece that locks the SW, the SW is now unlocked. This is designed so that: when key
is removed, the SW is locked, and when the engine is started, the SW is unlocked for obvious
reason.

- Wherever the small broken piece comes from, it sits at the very bottom of the metal plate,
preventing the guillotine from coming downward completely. It depends on the position of the broken piece,
one may have issue with 0 ---> I, or I ---> II, or II ---> III.

- This is why when you watch the video link below, this person did not even remove the bottom plate, he only
pried one side of the bottom plate. This allows the guillotine to come down completely.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Jun 2022, 20:58

The photo below comes from forum member @mom, it shows the guillotine in cutaway view:

DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix! Topic is solved

Re: DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix!