96 850 NA PCV Guidance/Hose ID

[cn90]

The morale of this thread is:

- As I mentioned, the kit sounds convenient, just a few clicks on the mouse on your laptop and voila, you receive the package at your door steps, and surprise surprise when you have everything apart! This is why I don't order the PCV kit and I itemize everything.

- Re-use the oil trap.

- Do not waste money on the vent hose (the hose going from oil trap to intake air), instead use generic 5/8-inch hose, it is cheap. Better yet, use erikv11's idea of pre-molded hose, i.e., hose with a 90-degree bend already built in.

- Pay attention to year, model of the car; turbo vs N/A. Best is to make a trip to local dealer, give them VIN, then ask them to print out for you a list with the correct PNs. Then go home and order ONLY what you need.

- The rest is easy:
* Regular clamps vs Oetiker.
* Hose to the top valve cover.
* Standard vacuum hose etc.

[dosbricks]

In a partial defense of FCP, I ordered this 850T300 kit in late April 2014 and it was an exact fit for everything I removed from the car. But at that time I paid $158.82 with free shipping, so it has taken a whopping $30 price leap since last April

The first kit I ordered, which had a wrong hose because it was for lower engine numbers, was 850T96 and it cost $143.88. That part# is now not listed on their site, but the same kit is now listed as 850NA96 and costs $286.12 What the......????
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 850-850t96

With all the parts I bought for both cars last year, I made it onto FCP's top 500 customer list for 2015, which has a few perks, but I'm going do price comparisons with other sites before I order again. If they are going to raise prices across the board because their business has expanded then they will loose out to other competitors. It's already very expensive to maintain these cars when they hit certain thresholds of component wear out.

[eriscentro]

Hey guys! Here's the scoop.
I started removing everything around 11 today, and just got inside (9:30), having taken a break for between one and two hours. We had a TON of trouble getting the lower manifold bracket off. The bolt on the manifold simply wouldn't come off, no matter what we tried. To remedy this, we removed the bolt not on the top of the L bracket, but rather the one on the block and the electrical connector attached to it. I swapped the old PCV parts for the new ones, and was able to use standard hose clamps for all of the hoses, although I'm yet to screw down the hose at the top of the block. Upon reattaching the manifold, we had a ton of trouble getting on one of the upper bolts. We were able to finally get all seven bolts on (and the two on the bottom), so we started to torque them. On the first bolt, our new (read: used once) torque wrench worked fine. On the second, it hadn't clicked and we SHEARED one of the upper bolts going into the block. After freaking out for a few minutes (with a bit of cursing), we got our heads back, and removed the manifold. Thankfully, the bolt had sheared outside the block, so we were UNBELIEVABLY able to remove it. Currently, the manifold is on with the exception of the sheared bolt (upper) and a lower bolt which wasn't screwing in nicely and appeared to have a nick in one of the threads. I'll go over to Volvo and pick up three tomorrow. Tomorrow, we'll have to get the bolts and a new torque wrench so we can tighten the manifold. The we need to reattach the other hoses/vac lines/connectors, and I should be all good to go. I did reuse the gasket after having removed the manifold, since it didn't look to be indented.

Tip: We removed the cowling under the front lip of the car so we could get to the dipstick bolt without having to jack the car. This works great, provided you have an extension that someone can pass down through the engine bay.

Few other things:
1.) Although CN says that the oil trap can be reused, I found it really helpful to have a spare. Upon removing the trap, I couldn't hit the lower left bolt, and could only get the box off by breaking it.
2.) The damned idle control valve was a pain to get off.
3.) There's a small yellow/black vacuum hose going from the radiator area to the intake manifold on the driver's side. The volvo clamp had to be cut, so a small hose clamp works nicely there.
4.) On the bottom port of the oil trap, which goes through a gasket into the block, the gasket from FCP is attached such that the rubberized side is facing the oil trap. I needed to look at the FCP install video to find this.
5.) Check your torque wrench before you use it. Ours is brand new, and was only used on the differential of my brother's wrangler, where it had worked fine. It appears to be completely locked up now. We were exhausted, and the over-tightening was considered, but we figured the wrench was working fine (stupid move)
6.) Two people makes this job MUCH easier. I frankly can't imagine doing it myself.
7.) Goo-gone worked well to clean the mating surface on the manifold and block.
8.) On my trap, the hose to the top of the block is connected on the passenger side hole.
9.) The manifold bolts would definitely be easier to get to with the fuel rail off, although I wanted to avoid removing it, so a wobble socket (which was pretty annoying to use) came in handy.

Morale of the story:
1.) Bolts can be your enemies.
2.) Torque wrenches can be evil.
3.) Always plan to use more time than expected.
4.) Telescoping magnets are the most useful thing you could possibly spend 4-5 dollars on. I happened to buy one at autozone months ago, and it was absolutely essential to having recovered a few bolts today.

Lastly, can anyone tell me what the PNs are for the 10mm intake manifold bolts? I have VADIS up on my computer in the garage, but not inside.

[cn90]

I have both torque wrenches: the dial type and the click type. I only use the dial type now because it is bullet-proof. The click type: if you don't calibrate it regularly, you can run into problems!

I.M. bolts info is below:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7286/113 ... ifold-bolt

[eriscentro]

Certainly has been a learning experience! We need to drop the tank on my brother's jeep tomorrow, which apparently is a joke in comparison . We will also have to get a new torque wrench before finalizing the repair. The one that broke is a Teckton (Techton?) from Amazon, which had gotten very good reviews. Even on a vice, it wouldn't let go at all, no matter the setting.

[dosbricks]

A small 3/8" drive beam type torque wrench is a good size for smaller bolts. They are inexpensive, and will do a lot less damage.
http://www.searsoutlet.com/3-8-in-Dr-Be ... ode=seeAll

[eriscentro]

Quick question for you guys:
Does the direction of 8653339 matter? It's the small "crankcase vent hose." The FCP video has the rubberized side pointing towards the oil trap, but I saw another picture in a different direction. I installed it the same way as in the FCP video.

[erikv11]

That's how I put that one on, rubber toward the trap. I figure the block gets much hotter than the trap, so that direction makes some sense.

On the IM bolts: they don't need to be very tight, for sure don't overdo it.

Sounds like great progress, and you can button it up tomorrow.

[Redneck]

Just as I wrote:

Over estimate the time to complete the repair. Give it extra 2 days or more just in case something happens or breaks.

In my experience, there is often something that I need extra, even if I plan well. The unexpected things are the exciting and challenging ones.

This is a lot of physical work. Things look simple theoretically.

When I wrote this I was going to say that things are sometimes 10 times harder than they seem prior to starting almost any meaningful repair. I usually like to have a week or more before I really need the car.

As for that troubled bolt. Compare it to a good one. It is possible that the bolt got elongated and the thread inside the engine block is not too damaged. If you buy a brand new bolt, it may catch the thread better and you will be able to torque it by a good amount.

You did it yourself, so you know what happened and you may try to remedy it. If a mechanic did that, he wouldn't even tell you.

[eriscentro]

Well, it's all done (not the oil change though)! We went to the dealer this morning and picked up four new manifold bolts, for the relatively fair price of about two dollars a piece. After getting a new torque wrench as well, we headed home and went to finish up. We found that the manifold bolt two positions from the left was a real pain to get to, and we had to remove the manifold once again in order to get the bolt to a state where it could be properly tightened. After doing so, we had problems with one of the upper bolts, which we ultimately got resolved. After getting everything back together, it started right up. I'm going to drive around tonight to make sure everything's perfect.