Long trip prep? ('04 XC)

[BlackBart]

Got an alignment, checked tires and spare, topped off transmission.

Rolls solid, tracks straight, braking is good. Ran it out the freeway 40 miles to shake it down. Did a few accelerations 60-80; it'll shift down twice if you push it. Shifts smoothly. Seems solid. 80mph on the flat is 2800rpm, which isn't working very hard. 75 is 2600. Many of our open freeways here have been changed to 80.

So I've changed the struts, the top mounts, the ball joints, and the control arms all fairly recently. End links are pretty new and tight. Any clunks from this point have to be subframe bushings, sway bar bushings, and that lower motor mount? When I'm underneath, that thing looks pretty sloppy - the steel hoop moves freely side to side at the rubber bushing. That ought to be changed.

I'll change the oil now while it's hot, and I got a little suction pump thing to see if I can pull any gear oil out of the angle gear housing.

[- Pete -]

You’re talking about the lower mount up front?
That ones a cinch & very inexpensive, but I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

Your RPMS’s sound spot on, check tire psi too.

Sway bar bushings on these are kinda a waste - have to replace the whole bar since the bushings are captive to it. Plus you have to lower the rear of the front subframe to do this job.

I also wouldn’t worry about front subframe bushings. Just do the inserts & new bolts from IPD if you’re concerned about them. I for one would not take the bolts out just to have a look. If I planned on taking the bolts out for that, I would absolutely have inserts & new bolts ready to go in.

You should be able to get 6-700 ml out of the bevel gear. I spose you could try the caulk on the j-hose & drive it the next couple days to see if it holds. A long trip like that could undo even an oil suited RTV securing rubber to rubber.

I think aside from J-pipe, you should be set. Nice job. Good to get comfortable with your car before a trip.

[BlackBart]

Coolant good, topped off. PS fluid topped off, ATF. Brake fluid is full, clear amber. Windshield washer topped off. Blinker fluid, check.

[BlackBart]

Under-the-engine front lateral mount, yes.

Sway bar bushings = Ipd sway bars! Yes!! And a real skid plate to replace the crappy plastic tray.

I have the subframe inserts, for sometime - I was thinking the sway bar job would be a smart time. Don't have the bolts I don't think.

Ipd is shipping me the J or L PCV hose by Thursday. I'll see if I can reach it without the intake coming off...ugh...again?!

[- Pete -]

The IPD bars are nice, pricey & time consuming to install F & R. Front means lowering subframe, rear you need to remove 1 shock assy (some will say remove both for ease). The best part about them is the bushings are replaceable & you don't need to lower the front subframe to replace them. A lot of people will say you need to, this is not true.

I put new bolts in whenever I take subframe bolts out. They are torque-to-yield. Many people reuse them though. They are cheap, I think 4 will run $13 (non-Volvo bolts). These ones.

[abscate]

I put new bolts in whenever I take subframe bolts out. They are torque-to-yield. Many people reuse them though. They are cheap, I think 4 will run $13 (non-Volvo bolts). These ones.

You will find at least one person who re- used and had them loosen up. They definitely use stretch to hold them tight.

You want to use lube on them as they are rust prone and itsucks if they break, that precludes using loctite.

If you reuse the bolts, punch mark then and inspect the marks at daily, then weekly, the monthly intervals for the next year. Yes, at $15 an hour, you’ve spent more in time than new bolts torqued to spec. Funny how that works.

If you cannot trust yourself to inspect, use new ones from Volvo as you want the steel to stretch according to plan.

[- Pete -]

Exactly. The MTC bolts are nice, come with blue threadlocker already applied/dried & an additional bottle of blue liquid thread locker. I’ve done 3 subframes with the MTC bolts now & not a one of them has loosened. I personally haven’t used anything but the supplied threadlocker, but a dab of lube as Steve says would definitely make for non-corroded threads. The originals can be a little rusty when you get them out. Originals have red loctite from the factory.

[XC70Rider]

Under-the-engine front lateral mount, yes.

Sway bar bushings = Ipd sway bars! Yes!! And a real skid plate to replace the crappy plastic tray.

I have the subframe inserts, for sometime - I was thinking the sway bar job would be a smart time. Don't have the bolts I don't think.

Ipd is shipping me the J or L PCV hose by Thursday. I'll see if I can reach it without the intake coming off...ugh...again?!

I had the same leak when I first got my P2 nearly 2 years ago. The previous owner didn't crimp the oetiker clamps on properly when doing the PCV cleanup. I was able to reach down far enough and remove both oetiker clamps from the elbow hose. I couldn't crimp on new oetiker clamps without the plenum removed so I used these Norma clamps I got from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2 ... UTF8&psc=1
The elbow hose wasn't damaged so I reused it.

I removed the plenum twice since then. It was a PITA reaching the bolt hidden behind the coolant housing the first time. Finding the correct wobble joint and socket to reach that bolt took some time.

[BlackBart]

I've tried a crow's foot to do that and it was a mistake. Quit before I rounded it off.

Those clamps look good. Hard to get decent clamps at auto parts stores these days.

Terrible zoomed phone flash pic, but can you see the vertical split here parallel to the clamp? Maybe I caused it? Maybe the clamp is on too tight? Bad hose?

Also - anyone know what this fitting or valve is near there under the intake? It's held on to the block with a bracket near the knock sensor. The green printed number is 5093P1.

[BlackBart]

The lovely and talented Mrs BB informed me yesterday that I'm not leaving this Friday, but a WEEK from Friday. That's why I was cramming all weekend to get all this finished!

So....

I guess I'm early for a change. I ordered Bosch coil packs, copper plugs, and that lower torque rod mount from FCP. Coils are probably fine, but you guys always say bring a spare, and it has 130k on it. Is that about when you all just replace them?

I see hanging from my garage wall a new intake manifold gasket! Pleasant surprise. So if the intake has to come off for that PCV hose, I have a new gasket.