2006 XC90 2.5T Timing Belt Flew Off

[SoapyCoyote]

[mrbrian200]

Oddly I might trust that if the welds were cleaner, went all the way around, and you had some way to keep it locked in place while torqueing the VVT hub bolts. Such as an assistant or a hook welded on that grabs the hole between those two bolts on the end of the cover. So long as the bar steel is a snug fit into the cam notches.
I would have been stuck until I got the cam locking tool as I don't have an OA or MIG welder.

[SoapyCoyote]

I have a concern here guys. I noticed that my cam notches don't line up right on my new head. Here is what they are supposed to look like according to this https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/cvvt- ... olvos.html



Pictured below is what my original head and cams look like and as you can see the notches line up



Now here is what my new head looks like. My exhaust cam notch lines up, but my intake notch doesn't.


Also, my notches are almost exactly horizontal but the picture in the example shows them angled about 10 degrees off horizontal. I'm about to take the valve cover back off and see how the cam lobes compare. Any advice guys?

[SoapyCoyote]

Well I took the valve/cam cover off and compared lobes. Here's the old one


and here's the news one


So the notch can apparently be on the left side and still be ok. Hope this helps someone.

[SoapyCoyote]

Hey guys, how do I make room for a Torque Wrench on the Intake Cam Hub Torx 55 center bolt? I was able to make room for it on the Exhaust Cam by following the instructions on page 4 step 15 part b and c of this awesome write up download/file.php?id=32533

[SoapyCoyote]

here is a picture of it

[mrbrian200]

The plastic cover over the ECU/TCM comes off. The top cover comes off pretty obvious. There's middle section which releases with tabs down below--lift the middle section straight up. Be mindful not to deflect the modules more about 5 mm so as not to risk damaging the electrical connectors down below: The middle section has slots which hold them from the edge to keep them straight when it's assembled. This gives the extra inch or two necessary. Just enough to fit the torque wrench in.

I found it necessary to remove this cover when doing the timing belt to get tools in either to tighten the TB tensioner, pulley, or maybe to grab the serpentine belt tensioner with a torx bit. I forget which it was now. I got stuck on it for a few minutes until I noticed the computer box comes apart.

[mrbrian200]

If you're still having trouble getting the wrench in you can go to the store and look for a short type torx thingy. Many auto parts stores and larger hardware stores will have them. Sometimes sold individually/just the size you need without having to buy a whole set:

[SuperHerman]

Another option is knock out the bit from the socket and use an appropriate size boxed wrench and a cheater bar. You will have to guess the torque. Make sure the bit stays straight and true.

That was my approach when I did it.

[SoapyCoyote]

Thanks mrbrian200 that plastic cover did come off. I had enough clearance after removing both the top and bottom halves of that plastic cover. I also was able to get the cams torqued down to 88 ft-lbs (120 Nm) on and the timing belt on. Now my questions are these: should I attempt a compression test on all cylinders? Should I try and disable my fuel pump (pull a fuse maybe) so that I can crank the engine over at lower RPM's and circulate the engine oil through all of the new clean passages for 20 or 30 seconds before attempting to start for real?